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Pic of the wiring where the RCAs are connected? Sounds like your positive and negative could be shorting together.
I ended up figuring it out. Should've edited the post but apparently my amp was bad. I connected another amp I had laying around and boom worked perfectly with the same set up. I guess it was about time for a new one anyways.
 
Discussion starter · #142 ·
I ended up figuring it out. Should've edited the post but apparently my amp was bad. I connected another amp I had laying around and boom worked perfectly with the same set up. I guess it was about time for a new one anyways.
Rip. Bad equipment is always the hardest to troubleshoot. Glad you got it sorted!
 
@removeddonut Sorry I know this thread is older now, but I wanted to ask you a couple quick questions about your method if you don't mind. For reference, I also have a premium model GR86, and I purchsed the same JBL Stadium and Kicker KEY500.1 mono amp. I'll be wiring things up this weekend.

It looks like you used the high level inputs to splice from? Is that just preferable if your amp has the option to toggle between them?

And also...hard to tell but it looks like you didn't actually splice into the remote wire from the factory amp? Is that becase of the Kicker amp feature "DC offset sensing turn-on with speaker-level inputs", or am I just not understanding that correctly? Basically... what is connected into your Kicker REM input? Maybe it is just the dark green wire from the factory amp and it's hard to tell in the pictures?
 
Discussion starter · #144 ·
@removeddonut Sorry I know this thread is older now, but I wanted to ask you a couple quick questions about your method if you don't mind. For reference, I also have a premium model GR86, and I purchsed the same JBL Stadium and Kicker KEY500.1 mono amp. I'll be wiring things up this weekend.

It looks like you used the high level inputs to splice from? Is that just preferable if your amp has the option to toggle between them?

And also...hard to tell but it looks like you didn't actually splice into the remote wire from the factory amp? Is that becase of the Kicker amp feature "DC offset sensing turn-on with speaker-level inputs", or am I just not understanding that correctly? Basically... what is connected into your Kicker REM input? Maybe it is just the dark green wire from the factory amp and it's hard to tell in the pictures?
I used the inputs to the factory amp rather than the outputs, in the interest of getting a full range signal. I think in my splice tutorial I may have shown the outputs though.
I did use the dark green wire as amp turn-on, and this is preferable to using a generated turn-on for the sake of reliability.
 
Tapping input signal (GR86 base/BRZ premium):
See premium/limited comment for wire splice technique.
I don’t have one of these, so writing a guide for it is kind of hard. You don’t have a factory amplifier, so obviously you can’t get your signal there. You’ll need a 2 channel line output converter (you can buy one of these for like $15 at any best buy), since you don’t have a preamp level speaker signal to tap.
From what I can find, it seems like the easiest place to access the speaker wires would be in the door harness found in each kick panel. +/- are purple/gray on both sides, the top and bottom pins on the far right side of the harness. On the driver side, just disassemble the running board the same way you did on the passenger side for power.

Here’s some pictures of the passenger side door boot harness, driver side should be almost identical. That purple/gray set is the one we’re after. View attachment 6338
View attachment 6339

You’ll also need to source a switched power source for amp turn-on. I didn’t take pictures of this, because I didn’t have to do it lol. The cigarette lighter behind the glovebox would probably be easiest. Remove the glovebox by unclipping the piston on the right side, then push the 2 sides of the glovebox inward to remove it. From there you should be able to reach your hand behind the cigarette lighter and grab the harness. The blue wire is your switched power.
Hi @removedonut - thank you for this tutorial, it's amazing!
I have a question regarding the base model which I couldn't find answer to anywhere.
Was anyone able to confirm the best location to tap into a full range signal in case one would like to install an amp? Is it in fact the wires in both kick panels you mention above? Is purple + and gray -? Are the colors the same in both sides of the car?
Luckily I'll be using Audiocontrol D-6.1200 so no need to tap into remote wire.

Thanks!
 
Discussion starter · #146 ·
Was anyone able to confirm the best location to tap into a full range signal in case one would like to install an amp? Is it in fact the wires in both kick panels you mention above? Is purple + and gray -? Are the colors the same in both sides of the car?
“Best” location is debatable. If you want to get both left and right side in the same location on a base model, you need to go behind the radio which requires a bit more disassembly. Otherwise, yeah the door boot harnesses are easier to access. They are the same color on each side and they do have a full range signal.
 
Using your DIY, I just installed a JL Audio MicroSub+ ACP108LG-W3v3 that fits so perfectly in the side of the trunk it looks custom. Carpet even matches. I used the military splice too and have to say it was like open heart surgery on a mouse with the thin wires. Only need good low profile brace for the box. and likely rerun the "low" level input to the high level amp input given the gain is on zero right now.
 
Using your DIY, I just installed a JL Audio MicroSub+ ACP108LG-W3v3 that fits so perfectly in the side of the trunk it looks custom. Carpet even matches. I used the military splice too and have to say it was like open heart surgery on a mouse with the thin wires. Only need good low profile brace for the box. and likely rerun the "low" level input to the high level amp input given the gain is on zero right now.
pics?
 
I just bought a 2024 GR86 premium edition. I used a t harness from amazon to install a 12" in a box. I had to cut the supplied remote wire and splice it into the blue wire on the harness labelled antenna. After that its worked flawlessly. I have the gain on the harness LOC at 25% and my amp around 40%. It sounds fantastic and basically carries the whole sound system. I tried to link the amazon post but this site wont let me. (multi colored harness with a red remote wire 40$)
Good luck on your installs!
 
I did this install on 22 gr86 premium but for some reason when I hook the rca connections up to my amp my door speakers shut off and no sound from subs also I use the dark green remote wire in the middle of the harness for the amp remote turn on but the amp will not shut off
 
I did this install on 22 gr86 premium but for some reason when I hook the rca connections up to my amp my door speakers shut off and no sound from subs also I use the dark green remote wire in the middle of the harness for the amp remote turn on but the amp will not shut off
If the door is / doors are open, it will activate the 12V trigger.
 
I used low level from the factory amp I cut the end off a set of rca jacks and wired them to the low level wires going into my factory amp but for some reason when I hook the rca jacks to the aftermarket amp it shuts sound off from the front door speakers and no sound from subs either
 
I had the doors shut but I did have to open the trunk to check the amp does the trunk trigger the 12v to
I don't think opening the trunk triggers the amp. I don't have the car anymore to check it.

I do remember that if you remove the door panels, the car thinks the doors are open, even if they are closed. This turns on the amp and can drain the battery.
 
Discussion starter · #157 ·
I did this install on 22 gr86 premium but for some reason when I hook the rca connections up to my amp my door speakers shut off and no sound from subs also I use the dark green remote wire in the middle of the harness for the amp remote turn on but the amp will not shut off
The amp circuit will turn on any time the keys are near the car.

Check your ground for the amp.
 
Discussion starter · #159 ·
Howdy. Sorry if I suck at writing tutorials. I know a subwoofer is something the majority of the owners of these cars are going to want, so I figured I’d share my knowledge a bit.
Background on me, I spent 4 years as a 12 volt electronics installer, and I’m pretty sure I still have an active MECP Advanced certification. The techniques I’m using in this guide are exactly what you’d get if you took your car to get a sub amp installed professionally.
Old thread I recognize, but it seemed to be the appropriate one for my questions please. I have a 2023 GR 86 premium and I have installed a powered subwoofer in the trunk. Everything seems to be working, but I’m wondering if my choice to use high-level speaker input was the right choice. It was an easy option. This is obviously why I chose it. I tapped into the left and right positive and negative from the large port going into the amplifier and tapped into the blue wire from small port for remote power on. Does anyone disagree with this and if so, what is the impact to the output of my subwoofer? Thanks in advance!
 
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