why wouldn't you replace the dash speakers then? or just remove them since you have presumably co-ax in the doorsSo at this point,
-I've replaced the door speakers, running at full range of separate amp
-Added a set of component pods that sit in my back seats, running full range off separate amp
-Added some 6x9 boxes in the trunk, running 50-200hz on separate amp
-Added bass hub in tire well on separate amp
-Added 8 channels of amplification,
I took the signal for all of this "pre-amp" before the door speaker amp in the rear, which feeds into a separate eq before the amps so I can eliminate the static from 1,5-6khz. ground wire is the "latch" bolts.
The gawdawful sound is coming from the dash speakers, so I just bumped up the gain on everything else. All that and hours of tuning and it still sounds worse than the factory Alpine in my jeep.the bass hits harder though.
How to: Subwoofer installation
Howdy. Sorry if I suck at writing tutorials. I know a subwoofer is something the majority of the owners of these cars are going to want, so I figured I’d share my knowledge a bit.
Background on me, I spent 4 years as a 12 volt electronics installer, and I’m pretty sure I still have an active MECP Advanced certification. The techniques I’m using in this guide are exactly what you’d get if you took your car to get a sub amp installed professionally.
There are some things I may or may not show in my install that I don’t advise doing because they’re not cost effective - you can get a professional sub amp install for about $120 labor, and anything that runs up the cost closer to that mark makes it less worth it to DIY.
1. Integrating with the factory amplifier by making your own T harness. This is cool, but also costs about $40 in parts just by itself. We will be using a military splice instead.
2. Wire dressing. Also very cool, but not cost effective if you’re doing a single install. The power kit I recommend has the engine compartment portion of the power wire pre-dressed, which is the only part that actually needs to be dressed.
With that said, here’s a list of stuff I used.
Background on me, I spent 4 years as a 12 volt electronics installer, and I’m pretty sure I still have an active MECP Advanced certification. The techniques I’m using in this guide are exactly what you’d get if you took your car to get a sub amp installed professionally.
There are some things I may or may not show in my install that I don’t advise doing because they’re not cost effective - you can get a professional sub amp install for about $120 labor, and anything that runs up the cost closer to that mark makes it less worth it to DIY.
1. Integrating with the factory amplifier by making your own T harness. This is cool, but also costs about $40 in parts just by itself. We will be using a military splice instead.
2. Wire dressing. Also very cool, but not cost effective if you’re doing a single install. The power kit I recommend has the engine compartment portion of the power wire pre-dressed, which is the only part that actually needs to be dressed.
With that said, here’s a list of stuff I used.
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if the new connections dont help i would try a ground loop isolator inline on the RCA's to see if that helps. also the RCA's that were included with that sub are probably trash too wouldnt hurt to try a better pair. ive only used the kind like below that are straight forward. ive seen some just now that have wire connections as well but no idea on their performance in comparison
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Hello. I am back for my final update. I completely eliminated the static in my speakers, it’s not present at all even when my speakers are at 32 which is the absolute highest I’ll turn them up to (head unit EQ: bass 0 treble 4 and mid 4).
What it looked like when it had static: RCA cables with one end of each R and L connector cut off that were hooked up from the subwoofer’s low end connections to the cars’ amp low side cables, using CRIMP CONNECTORS. This is important because those were what was giving me so much static. Sub ground/negative was hooked up to the strut bolt.
What it looked like after I fixed it: I repaired the low end connections at the car’s amp, yes, with solder, electrical tape’d the exposed copper to fix the low end connections. Scrapped the RCA cable. Used 16 gauge audio cable, included with the Rockville 8 inch trunk subwoofer’s wiring kit, to connect the sub’s high side connections (R+/-, L+/-) to the car amp’s high end wiring. Spliced and insulated with electrical tape. Moved the sub’s negative/ground cable to a seat mounting bolt as the Audio God removedonut suggested.
There was technically nothing wrong with reusing the low end cables, but they were mangled enough from my fuckery that I left them alone and used the high end connections.
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For anyone needing help,
Low level (RCA)
FL (+/-): Itgrn pin A3/yellow pin A9
FR (+/-): white pin A4/Itblu pin A10
High level:
FL (+/-): Itgrn pin A1/blue pin A5
FR (+/-): brown pin A2/purple pin A6
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@removedonut Thank you so so much for your instruction. Truly doing the Lord’s work.
What it looked like when it had static: RCA cables with one end of each R and L connector cut off that were hooked up from the subwoofer’s low end connections to the cars’ amp low side cables, using CRIMP CONNECTORS. This is important because those were what was giving me so much static. Sub ground/negative was hooked up to the strut bolt.
What it looked like after I fixed it: I repaired the low end connections at the car’s amp, yes, with solder, electrical tape’d the exposed copper to fix the low end connections. Scrapped the RCA cable. Used 16 gauge audio cable, included with the Rockville 8 inch trunk subwoofer’s wiring kit, to connect the sub’s high side connections (R+/-, L+/-) to the car amp’s high end wiring. Spliced and insulated with electrical tape. Moved the sub’s negative/ground cable to a seat mounting bolt as the Audio God removedonut suggested.
There was technically nothing wrong with reusing the low end cables, but they were mangled enough from my fuckery that I left them alone and used the high end connections.
For anyone needing help,
Low level (RCA)
FL (+/-): Itgrn pin A3/yellow pin A9
FR (+/-): white pin A4/Itblu pin A10
High level:
FL (+/-): Itgrn pin A1/blue pin A5
FR (+/-): brown pin A2/purple pin A6
@removedonut Thank you so so much for your instruction. Truly doing the Lord’s work.
121 - 129 of 129 Posts
