Here's the Noico product:

You peel off the backing paper, stick the sound deadener in place, then use the roller to 'roll out' as much of the diamond waffle pattern as you can. The rolling step is critical to make sure the material doesn't release and fall off on a hot day. The product comes folded, which is why there are wrinkles in the middle of the sheet.

An entire sheet will fit on the body panel under the rear side window.

I put a small piece at the bottom.

There's still a huge undamped panel behind the window and above the wheel well. Here you can see I've applied material to the wheel well already.

I cut a piece this size and did a test-fit before peeling off the backing paper. No problem. This is about as big a piece as you can use and still reach up in there to roll it.

Here you can see a corner of the big piece just discussed, up above the wheel well. I also added a triangular piece to fill in the remaining space below it. I also cut some small rectangular pieces and attached them to the back side of this bulkhead in the areas indicated, with one piece on the front side (far right). This bulkhead is very resonant. I also put a long, narrow piece on the back of the speaker bracket to stop its vibrations.

Here's a view of the body panel and wheel well area.

This view shows a couple more spots treated on the inside of the wheel well.

 

Has anyone pulled the polystyrene foam blocks out of the trunk yet? I'm wondering how to remove them without destroying them, since they are not that robust. Here is the clip that holds them in place.

 

Has anyone pulled the polystyrene foam blocks out of the trunk yet? I'm wonder how to remove them without destroying them, since they are not that robust. Here is the clip that holds them in place.

They just pop out. I got a panel removal tool under it and pried. They do go flying so be ready. Something like this-

 

My post about the sub was in the 'what did you do to your BRZ today' thread. Not much info, just a pic really. I know someone else posted something similar with a sub meant to be placed in the spare tire. They had more info and similar pics of carving the foam insert to fit around the sub enclosure.

 

Ah, that's right. The Rockville RockGhost 8" active subwoofer like @GR86Talk here. Did the Rockville kit include a cable for the sub signal from your PZ-C7, or did you buy something else separately?

 

I looked at so many audio threads here I couldn't keep them all straight as to which I followed. After looking at your link, that one is exactly what I used for both running the power wire through the firewall and trimming the foam to fit around the sub! Thanks @GR86Talk !

 

I used a set of RCA cables I had laying around that incorporated the remote turn on wire (I ran them when I put the amp in, before I bought the sub), but everything needed for install was included with the sub- Power w/fuse holder, ground, speaker wire, remote turn on wire, RCA cables, wire loom, ring terminals, zip ties, etc.

 

Thank you, very helpful. I'm not knowledgeable about car audio, which is why I am peppering you with these simpleton's questions. 😅

 

I doubt you added too much weight. I used kilmat (80mil) in my sti. It looked identical to the noico down to the box and was under 10lbs for 18sq feet. Really curious how well it works for you.

 

in for results... I dont drive long distance much anymore, but road noise on i5 here was pretty awful even with the Spotify cranked up.

 

It might be a little while. I didn’t pre-plan a subwoofer, but now that I’ve gone this far I’m thinking of putting one in. But, I haven’t even settled on a plan for components yet, lol. In the meantime, leaving the interior out of the car.

 

Excellent!

Here are some follow-up pics about the rear seat fabric fasteners that might help visualize them better.

Storing the interior parts so they don’t get scratched.

 

Right rear footwell treatment.

Continued interior disassembly. @piening2150 warned me that the clips holding the polystyrene foam blocks go flying. I forgot & found out! ‘Cri-min-itly!’ as my dad used to say!

Here’s how I tried to minimize the clip tool digging into the foam. Worked pretty well.

Plastic bag method for storing pop clips, bolts, etc.

Trunk interior stripped completely. Lots of opportunities for sound deadening in here.

The pile grows.

 

Trunk interior stripped completely. Lots of opportunities for sound deadening in here.

Trunk is absurdly huge if you ditch all foams, spare tire kit and so on. Essentially leave the necessary legal stuff for road, depending by the country - fire extinguisher, warning triangle etc. I'd argue, that with this stuff removed, you could install some amateur half cage in place of back seats, and still have very usable car... I was thinking, if someone will came up with idea of 3D scanning trunk (in state seen above) and then creating some lightweight plastic/rubber mat, to put into place and insulate this whole metal, gaining lower level of the trunk as well. Sounds overly expensive but neat in the same way.

 

@Ritter That last photo with the panels on carpet, light grey floor, motorcycle, and swivel chair just has a high end vibe to it. Like some high end custom car company. Your lighting is amazing — better than any dealer showroom. 😂

Those foam block clips are such a beast to pop off — and when I say pop, they pop. I took them out a few times and was very careful, but one time one broke. I ended up ordering a replacement from the local Subaru dealer (cheaper than Toyota, for the same part).

 

@Ritter make sure you sound proof the trunk lid too if you get a sub.

 

When I read this post earlier, I thought you meant the mastic product, but you meant the rug padding. I'm glad you said that because I was able to fit four rectangles of felt rug pad under my trunk liner. Much better than the mastic product alone!

 

If you decide to get one of the Rockville subs, order it directly from them. I found promo codes to save a little $ and they shipped fast. Had it in 2 days vs over a week ETA from Amazon.

Powered Sub Enclosures

Buy Rockville powered subwoofer enclosures at manufacturer direct prices. We offer free fast shipping, a 90 day money back guarantee including return shipping, as well as a full warranty.

www.rockvilleaudio.com

 

Just ordered the RockGhost V2. With 10% coupon & free shipping, it was $190.75 Kentucky sales tax included.

Rockville RockGhost V2 Powered 11" 800w Car Subwoofer Fits Inside Spare Tire

Buy Rockville RockGhost V2 Powered 11" 800w Car Subwoofer Fits Inside Spare Tire Manufacturer Direct with a 30 day money back guarantee including return shipping

www.rockvilleaudio.com

 

@Ritter That last photo with the panels on carpet, light grey floor, motorcycle, and swivel chair just has a high end vibe to it. Like some high end custom car company. Your lighting is amazing — better than any dealer showroom. 😂

Those foam block clips are such a beast to pop off — and when I say pop, they pop. I took them out a few times and was very careful, but one time one broke. I ended up ordering a replacement from the local Subaru dealer (cheaper than Toyota, for the same part).

I found the swivel chair while exploring an abandoned 1930s / ‘40s office building in downtown Milwaukee around 1992. It was covered in mouse & pigeon droppings, so I knew nobody cared about it. I brought it home and cleaned it up. I’m sitting in it right now as I post this! 😃

You might like my Scottish wool tartan car blanket. It’s useful for many things, including padding the bare interior while I crawl around in there.

When those clips pop, it sounds like they break! I was wondering if any would.

I used to design building electrical systems early in my career as a consulting electrical engineer. Everything from site substations to lighting & receptacles. I still remember how to calculate lighting requirements for different tasks. One rule of thumb is that it’s never perceived as bright as you think it will be, so I usually err with 25% more lighting than the calculations would indicate. I’m using these Sunco LED 5K shop lights that you can daisy-chain in linear fashion. They’re so efficient that I’ve got 25 of them on one 15A 120V circuit switched as three zones. 21 cover the shop floor and four are arranged over the tool boxes and work benches. They used to come with a reflector (like mine) for 100% downlighting, but now they don’t have a reflector so they are up- and downlighting. If you have a white ceiling, that should still be fine.

@Ritter make sure you sound proof the trunk lid too if you get a sub.

Good point! I actually started there when I had the trim off for my F1 brake flasher / trunk pull installation. Not a whole lot of places to put sound deadening under the trim panel. I didn’t realize at first how undersized the trim panel is, and had pieces of deadener in areas that weren’t covered. I ended up pulling it off because it didn’t look good. If I put it back, I need to be super tidy with it.

 

@Ritter Now I know why your lighting is perfect. Thanks for sharing your background.

Wow, that chair turned out nice! Great job!

Thanks for the link to the lights. Uggg… I don‘t want any more projects, but I now have this itch to replace lighting in my garage! 😂

 

Thanks!

These lights are a pretty easy install. They just hang from chains. Biggest work is installing switched receptacles to control them, but they can also be switched with a pull chain if you don’t have too many. It might be possible to just tap into the switched legs of the existing lighting and that would cut out a lot of the work.

 

Left side complete. Moving on to trunk next.

 

I’m contemplating mineral wool (‘rock wool’) non-fiberglass insulation for the hollow space under the rear windows, under the rear seat, and quarter panels behind the trunk trim. Thoughts? My understanding is that mineral wool doesn’t trap condensation or leaked water moisture like fiberglass; it can dry out if it gets wet.

 

I just bought some polyfill from the craft store and stuffed it in the hollow rear corners of the trunk under the L/R foam insterts. Not sure if it's any better/worse than the rock wool, but it was a lot cheaper. I'll stuff some in the hollow side panels too if/when I take them off for sound deadening. Bought 2 bags and I haven't even used 1/2 a bag yet.

The Original Poly-fil® Premium Fiber Fill Bag, 20oz. | Michaels

Buy the The Original Poly-fil® Premium Fiber Fill Bag, 20oz. at Michaels.com. Crafters have made Poly-Fil the best selling polyester fiberfill in America.

www.michaels.com

 

Curious how much of a noticeable QOL improvement this makes. Looks like it takes some serious commitment. Awesome write up.

I would be interested to do this myself, maybe not to the extent you're doing in yours. But then again, maybe it wouldn't be worth it without

 

Curious how much of a noticeable QOL improvement this makes. Looks like it takes some serious commitment. Awesome write up.

I would be interested to do this myself, maybe not to the extent you're doing in yours. But then again, maybe it wouldn't be worth it without

Lol, well it started off as “just do the rear seat area.” But once you’re into it, there’s not a lot of reason to stop.

I did get stymied at the rear package shelf. @Karlosak said his hi-fi shop put padding under it to stop it from rattling. To get the top trim panel off of off it, it looks like you have to pop the side panels off above the rear windows. I popped the outermost panel off and found an airbag underneath it, and it’s tethered. There’s another little trim piece behind it that I tried to remove, but it’s captive under a bolt and I just bailed out at that point and put it back together.

 

Moving on to the trunk. There’s an opportunity to access a big hunk of quarter panel on the left side.

I got a piece about this size up in there.

Here’s the final result. Some people say you can be more judicious and just put a few pieces here and there on the biggest flat spots, and I’ve seen some people lay it down wall-to-wall. I tried to split the difference and put it anywhere that seemed underdamped, but not where the parts are obviously very rigid.

I think I’m done at this point. It’s been a nice yoga workout and claustrophobia desensitization training. 😂

 

My spare tire subwoofer causes my trunk to rattle quite a bit. Should i put sound deadening on the bottom of the trunk or on the lid?

 

Yes

 

I just bought some polyfill from the craft store and stuffed it in the hollow rear corners of the trunk under the L/R foam insterts. Not sure if it's any better/worse than the rock wool, but it was a lot cheaper. I'll stuff some in the hollow side panels too if/when I take them off for sound deadening. Bought 2 bags and I haven't even used 1/2 a bag yet.

The Original Poly-fil® Premium Fiber Fill Bag, 20oz. | Michaels

Buy the The Original Poly-fil® Premium Fiber Fill Bag, 20oz. at Michaels.com. Crafters have made Poly-Fil the best selling polyester fiberfill in America.

www.michaels.com

That’s a better idea, I think. Maybe not as sound-dampening as the mineral wool, but won’t be left with a large extra quantity either.

I found poly quilt batting at Walmart for extra snuggly-ness.

I'm thinking it might be convenient for cut / fill into different shaped spaces. I'll see how it goes.

 

Well holy shit.... where's that thread about the "best mod you learned about from the forums". This. This right here.

 

I treated just my boot(trunk) with Dynamat.
Not sure I'm in love with the 'candy wrapper' decal design - with Aussie cars you do see some through the gaps in the spare wheel - but maybe less 'low rent' than seeing the painted metal.
Mitigates some tyre noise from the PS4's, particularly that resonance effect that can occur on coarse asphalt at some cruising speeds.
The boot is pretty easy, don't know if I could be bothered pulling out the back seat to add any more as I'm fine with how it is.

 

I treated just my boot(trunk) with Dynamat.
Not sure I'm in love with the 'candy wrapper' decal design - with Aussie cars you do see some through the gaps in the spare wheel - but maybe less 'low rent' than seeing the painted metal.
Mitigates some tyre noise from the PS4's, particularly that resonance effect that can occur on coarse asphalt at some cruising speeds.
The boot is pretty easy, don't know if I could be bothered pulling out the back seat to add any more as I'm fine with how it is.
View attachment 36962
View attachment 36963

Nice! You could get some thin gray auto trim carpet and put under there to cover it up.

 

@Ritter I’m missing the verdict on all this great work you did. How’s the car sound now? Also, now that you’re experienced doing this can i drop my car off with you for a couple days? 😂

 

Thanks, this job was one of the rare situations where my 5'5" height was not a disadvantage! I pity a 6+ footer getting in there unless you're a trained contortionist.

I can't give you a final verdict because the interior is still out of the car! I want to install a subwoofer (on order) and maybe rear speakers (still confused / undecided) before I put the panels and rear seats back in.

However I did take the car out for a shopping trip last evening, about a 30 minute drive each way. With the interior out, the high-frequency sounds of driveline, wind, tires, etc. are a bit more audible. These can only be attenuated by putting all the trim and soft materials back in the car. The sound deadening has a bigger effect on stopping lower-frequency chassis 'booming' or 'drumming' for lack of better descriptions. The low-frequency noise threshold is lower, which you really can't perceive directly but indirectly, because the stock low-frequency chassis noise level obscures and smears desirable low-frequency audio signals. After sound deadening, most notably, my HKS Legamax Premium exhaust, which is a 'bass-y' exhaust, sounded more clear and distinct - a very pleasant surprise. I think this is a harbinger of how the lows will sound: less muddied and more clear, particularly when I get the subwoofer installed.

 

I think of all the undamped sheet metal pieces as undesirable mechanical 'speakers', all vibrating out of sync with each other and 'outputting' their individual sounds. The more of them you can suppress with sound deadener, the better you can hear the actual audio loudspeakers.

 

Seeing the removed plastic pieces in this thread makes me want to upholster the interior, but I'm not doing French stitch arm rests, shift boot, and so on by hand and I just priced good sewing machines, so my cheapness is winning out.

 

Check out the vintage Sears Kenmore 158.xxxx series, made in Japan in the late '60s to early '70s by Jaguar-Maruzen.

They have all-metal gears when Singers had turned to plastic junk to save cost. Very rugged construction and wear like iron. They are powerful; could be called light industrial. They are easy to thread and hold tension really well, with none of the bobbin tangling issues of the Singers.

The Sears Kenmore 158.1914 built 1975-76 by Jaguar-Maruzen is the peak model of the series. $445.95 in 1975 would be $2,533.98 today.