You stated you just bought the car . I want to send you fair warning . Do NOT try doing a burnout . There was a guy on here that tried it , he smoked the clutch . This car doesn't have enough power to do it right . Drifting is fine .... Especially when it is wet .

My advice is to leave the stock tires on and wait till they wear a lil . When the tires start to wear down , they get harder and less grippy . Take advantage of the grippyness you have right now and practice spirited driving first .

I am a 5 diget owner ( 21k )

 

Nankang AS-2+ for rear and Michelin Pilot Sport 5 for front is what I'm going for next summer unless someone gives me solid arguments why that's a bad idea.

Also, please don't try to drift while you're in the break-in period. That's just asking for trouble. Especially if it's in the dry.

 

That's what I say , but not what I did about that drifting part . Granted you could count on one hand how many times I drifted and almost met redline on one hand , I still didn't do it 😒

 

Please don't drift until that motor is broke in. Get a feel how to drive it nicely if you want it to last.

GT Radial Champiro UHP A/S 225/40R18 ZR 92Y XL AS All Season Tire

GT Radial Champiro UHP A/S 225/40R18 ZR 92Y XL AS All Season Tire

www.prioritytire.com

 

Car has plenty of power to do burnouts and drift. Just don't be dumb about it. Watch a lot of drifting/burnout fail videos to learn what not to do.

Kenda kr20a are popular drift tires.

 

There is PLENTY of power to do a proper burnout. I have done brake torques, rolling burnouts and plenty of clutch kick tail out action, all on the PS4 tires. User @TrueDrift is a deceiving name that makes you think he might have some useful insight in the craft but dont be fooled, cuz its more like PRETEND drift that only does little squiggles, only in the rain and with an AT. None of which qualifies as drifting. 1 goof ball with poor skill smokes his clutch and here comes the internet.... THE SKY IS FALLING. Dont do burnouts in your RWD manual sports car...!! Come on now. Buy the cheapest crap tires you can find and go blow them apart.

 

If you can find some, people with the base trim often sell their tyres for cheap. That could be a good starter.

Also I would also wait for the break in before pushing the car to limits. I think waiting for 1K miles sounds too cautious though. There are different opinions here how long break in really takes, but likely only a couple hundred miles is plenty. If I remember right, @TRU-BOOST said his engine stopped to smoked oil smell very soon, maybe less than even a 100 miles?

 

Yeah, I am in the hard break in crowd. I would not go straight to clutch dumps and brake torques that soon however. Thats a good way to glaze the flywheel and lose all clutch grip. My drive home from the dealer with my car was about 35 miles. Over that time I varied RPM and vacuum level progressively bringing the revs higher and higher but only in short bursts. By the time I got home I had already experience the full tach a few times.

 

It's irrelevant whether the car is within break in period or not. The car can drift on dry pavement. The cheapest tires you can find that fit your wheels will work fine. Just don't daily it with those same tires unless it's really nice and warm out.

For reference, I've drifted my car since day one. 14k miles, over a dozen sets of cheap tires, third set of brake shoes, and enough drifting to be on my third rear axle as well. No issues outside of the snapped rear axles because I'm doing something way out of what was intended with the vehicle. May look into aftermarket axles if this one goes at some point.

 

I have heard that 1st gen axles were prone to snap once people added some power and sticky tires. What do you think is causing it in your case? The initial shock of the clutch dump\kick...? The repeated lock\unlock of the torsen..? The snapping side to side motion pushing the axles into the diff..? Im genuinely curious. I didnt know people were having axle problems with 2nd gens.

 

In case you haven't read the oil posts on this forum overfill your engine oil by 3/4 of a quart and change your oil at 500 miles and then as you like

 

Break in the engine
Change fluids, preferably higher temp for brakes and diff fluids too.
High UTQG tires. Hard compound, long wear, low grip.
If you're struggling with it still, raise the rear tire pressure to almost 40psi.

 

I’d say try and find a set of 17 in stock wheels and tires with the primacies. Then you have a spare set of wheels to drift in and grippier tires for the street. And the primacies are pretty slippery, plenty of slip enough for a good bit of rear wheel dancing

 

Asian tires are good options to burn through for drifting. I personally recommend Kenda KR20A tires. They performed surprisingly well on track but still are great for drifting. Not good dailies though, especially in wet conditions.

 

Make sure you take breaks between drifts when the pressures get high if drifting in the dry. I generated too much heat + pressure in the stock tires when I had an open course and a chunk or two came out of the tire tread, giving it horrible vibrations after.