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FREE horsepower.... yes please

81K views 189 replies 51 participants last post by  Wayward67  
#1 · (Edited)
I stumbled on this video from Engineering Explained who is a favorite of mine. He experimented with both the stock filter and a K&N drop in filter. He got dyno numbers and acceleration times of how they performed with and without the charcoal mesh filter inside the air box. Take into consideration this was on a subaru crosstrek, so the results will likely vary on other cars......

I decided to give it a go on my BRZ and made a quick "How to" for anyone who is interested. Its super simple and Im sure most of you could figure it out without any help, but some may want to see it.

1st loosen the inlet pipe clamp shown in red with a 10mm socket or phillips screwdriver. It does not need to come off, just be loose. Also unclip the harness for the MAF sensor shown in blue.
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Next you will want to release the harness from the air box so you dont yank on the wires while trying to remove it. Pinch the tabs of the clip shown in yellow and push the wires free from the airbox. You can do this with your fingers or I used some needle nose pliers.
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After that move over to the lower right area of the air box and locate the 10mm bolt shown in white. Remove the bolt and set it aside. There is no nut on the bottom it just threads into the bracket below, so dont worry about anything falling. Also undo the clips shown in purple holding the air box lid closed at this point.
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Now that lid is ready to be removed. simply pull it up and back towards the engine. The rubber intake tube keeps a good grip on the plastic tube inside but just give it some good pulling and twisting. It will pop off and you will be left with this.
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This goofy thing is said to be for emissions control for air that comes out of the pcv system. I honestly dont think it does a darn thing other than become a restriction. The carbon filled mesh on ours is not held in the same as the one shown in the video. Ours is heat welded directly to the plastic air box. I just grabbed one edge with pliers and pulled it back until I could get a couple fingers behind it. From there just go around and pull until all the welds release and the mesh comes off. It does leave a bit of shaggy mesh behind, so I went over all the welds with a razor blade to clean them up a little. I did not spend a ton of time here because nobody will ever see it. The important part is just to remove any loose bits and shavings from the inside before puting it all back together. This is does after all sit behind your air filter, so any junk you leave there will get sucked into the motor. This is what mine ended up looking like after I was done.
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Thats it..!! Just reinstall the box the same way it came out. Make sure to put the 2 plastic tabs into their alignment slots on the bottom 1st. Stick the plastic tube back into the rubber intake hose all the way. There is an alignment mark so you can see when it is all the way on. Tighten everything up and most important.... plug that MAF back in...!!
I only drove around for about 10 min after. I cant say I noticed much so far. There is definitely a little more intake noise which I did not expect. Not sure how much power can be expected by doing this, but I can guarantee that mesh is not doing us any favors. Let me know what you all think...!!
 
#10 ·
I have always had my doubts as well. Dynos from reliable sources seem to show there can be gains. Not on all cars in all cases though. I do believe the information in the video I posted to be true. That guy has a great channel and has a good track record of being accurate and reliable. Claims from the manufacturer are in many (majority) cases inflated or just plain imaginary. The dyno is one thing, but in the video the test car actually decreased its 0-60 time by 0.3 seconds as well. That is a huge change. I do not think an intake system (AKA tube and cone filter) will be worth anything on this car. But I do believe that goofy carbon filter was robbing potential air flow.
 
#11 ·
I'm skeptical that this works. Seriously, look at all the testing that was done on cold air intakes and short ram intakes in the first FRS/BRZ generations. By eliminating the stock piping it would've effectively yielded the same effect as the video. No real gains anywhere.

Dropping in a K&N filter yielded the same results but for hundreds less money. At the end of the day, it depends on the engine.
 
#14 ·
I would of bought another air-box to modify it; once Subaru sees that you removed an emissions-component they're going to give you a hard time. Dealerships LOVE to void warranties, a lot of their income comes from the service/parts department.

Going to wait for some poor sap to install an aftermarket intake and swoop up their OE.
 
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#15 ·
Not at all. They would rather not void a warranty. With warranty coverage they are guaranteed to get paid and most people will let the dealer do the work no matter how minor. Void their warranty and a lot of people are walking out the door. They will do the work themselves, have a buddy do it or bring it to an independent shop. My son is a service writer for stellantis. In all honesty they will typically warranty cars that probably shouldnt be. Warranty coverage is very often misunderstood or exaggerated.
 
#21 · (Edited)
I personally don't care about warranty. The law is pretty clear about what they can and cannot do in terms of coverage. If they can manage to prove that the removal of what looks like a fish tank filter pad from my intake system caused some problem down the road, I commend them. LOL
This car has many more mods to come, including making it run on a fuel it is not intended to use (E85) and more than likely a header and some forced induction. I can understand people being concerned about warranty, but im not that guy. If it breaks, it breaks. Thats just an excuse to take it to the next level while fixing it.
 
#25 ·
Tru-Boost you are always the forum guy I trust. Just bought a 2nd upper air filter chamber with shipping $75. Am going to keep the OEM and modify the the new one. Have been running the K&N but will switch to the WIX filter which is dry. If there are issues with charcoal removal will still have the original. May be overthinking the deal but $75 does not break the bank and gives me a backup.
 
#33 ·
We are talking about state employees here. They are never going to open your airbox to see what is going on in there. They would be liable for screwing up peoples vehicles (and they absolutely would). This is no different than slapping a CARB approved sticker on there but then changing the tune in the ECU. They have no idea. I can assure you they will not be doing any invasive inspections at the expense of taking liability.
 
#36 ·
#37 · (Edited)
Getting one shipped as we speak. Was $75 with shipping out of AZ. Will remove the charcoal filter from the new one and install, save the original if issues. Also switching out the K&N with a WIX filter as I feel better with a dry filter after charcoal delete. Picture of new part 46059CC000 with filter removed. Did some sanding of attach points to clean up all the residue.

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#40 ·
I think you guys may be jumping the gun here...

1) I can't speak for other States, but California doesn't require any inspections for five years... that means you won't need to change it out for five years, and in five years, I am positive that eBay is going to have plenty for cheap.

2) No one is going to pop open the airbox... and if they did unless they were intimately familiar with the car, they're not going to know something is missing especially if you do a clean job.
 
#41 ·
Couple things; I took mine out, if anything I'll take the 2hp. Also this won't void any part of your warranty. Like someone said they have to prove it damaged something. Also I am 100 percent confident my dealership service department wouldn't even know it was missing unless they were told to look for it. They don't know these cars well.
 
#47 · (Edited)
There's no filtration between the charcoal filter and the MAF sensor and the engine's intake valves. Any loose debris will fly straight into them.

Here’s a procedure I would propose for those contemplating this improvement for off-highway use:
  1. Completely remove airbox per procedure given by @TRU-BOOST in his OP
  2. Remove MAF sensor and set it aside in a safe place so you don't break it or contaminate it
  3. Use a utility knife with a fresh razor blade to cut away the center portion of the mesh filter. You are left with a 3/8" wide perimeter of mesh heat-staked to the airbox
  4. Go in sideways with the utility knife, under the mesh, and carefully slice through the heat staking one by one
  5. There will still be some white mesh and bits and pieces left at the heat stakes. Use the knife to remove and clean up as much as possible
  6. Use ~180 to ~220 grit sandpaper at this point to sand down the remnants of the heat stakes and filter mesh. Use compressed air to blow away dust and debris
  7. With a propane torch set to its lowest possible flame, carefully and quickly "kiss" the sanded areas by waving the flame over them. This will very slightly melt the tiny plastic "hairs" caused by cutting and sanding. It will get rid of the "sanded" appearance and make it look black and shiny again, as well as prevent any tiny loose bits from dislodging later
  8. Re-install MAF sensor, taking care to re-start the screws in the same threads in the plastic so they don't strip out
  9. Re-install airbox and re-connect everything in reverse order of disassembly