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View attachment 45343

This happened on some brackets under the headlight. Like I said...even if it feels smooth, it can cause damage...mine was caused by the head of a bolt and a bracket. Should have been obvious but I wasn't "looking for it".
thanks, now I’m terrified. Mine rubbed on the little plastic box over there a bit. 🫤 can you share what sheath you used for the lines? I just done know what it’s called. Used the metal kind on brake lines before but the name escapes me.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
I talked to the folks at AZP. Their recommendation was to RUN Jackson oil to air cooler without the stock, heat exchanger, and then block off cooler using corrugated plastic in the winter. Their opinion is that removing the HE is both removing a potential point of failure and boosting the oil pressure to possibly improve reliability of oil delivery. Their experience was that oil will get up to temp just fine in the winter with the cooler blocked off.

Their opinion was that there was some extra inherent risk with the oil to water combo cooler because in the unlikely event of an internal failure, the odds of catastrophic damage were high.

I’ll have them order me what I need and install it sometime over the next couple weekends. I’ll try to document the HE delete because I’ve never seen anyone post photos or vids of installing a JR cooler with the HE removed.
 
I talked to the folks at AZP. Their recommendation was to RUN Jackson oil to air cooler without the stock, heat exchanger, and then block off cooler using corrugated plastic in the winter. Their opinion is that removing the HE is both removing a potential point of failure and boosting the oil pressure to possibly improve reliability of oil delivery. Their experience was that oil will get up to temp just fine in the winter with the cooler blocked off.

Their opinion was that there was some extra inherent risk with the oil to water combo cooler because in the unlikely event of an internal failure, the odds of catastrophic damage were high.

I’ll have them order me what I need and install it sometime over the next couple weekends. I’ll try to document the HE delete because I’ve never seen anyone post photos or vids of installing a JR cooler with the HE removed.

Agree with that route 100%!
 
I talked to the folks at AZP. Their recommendation was to RUN Jackson oil to air cooler without the stock, heat exchanger, and then block off cooler using corrugated plastic in the winter. Their opinion is that removing the HE is both removing a potential point of failure and boosting the oil pressure to possibly improve reliability of oil delivery. Their experience was that oil will get up to temp just fine in the winter with the cooler blocked off.

Their opinion was that there was some extra inherent risk with the oil to water combo cooler because in the unlikely event of an internal failure, the odds of catastrophic damage were high.

I’ll have them order me what I need and install it sometime over the next couple weekends. I’ll try to document the HE delete because I’ve never seen anyone post photos or vids of installing a JR cooler with the HE removed.
My build thread should have it as well as what you need to buy (oil filter union). If you can't find it, message me and I can help you out.
 
It does, bit clearance between oil filler neck and back of air box is TIGHT.
Like for sure for sure? Functions as intended?

Also, is the OEM air filter still serviceable?

I picked up a Voltex hood but the vents make contact with the filter before it can close so I need to lower the height of the filter.
 

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I have mine removed and it def still works. I also found that the oil fill cap is a bit snug without the OEHX
 
Added the GR intake for line clearance and removed the factory heat exchanger.

Getting a bit of oil seeping from under the filter though and I feel like it’s as tight as I would normally tighten in.

Did I do something wrong here? Lol
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latapx, thank you for all the build info, very helpful!

I'm getting the JR cooler and plan to remove the OE HX. couple questions:

Where did you get the oil filter union? I see one on the color fittings site but it's out of stock. Looked on the toyota and subaru oem parts sites and it wasn't clear if their bolt for the filter was the correct one.

You show that once the OE HX is removed, the oil filter plate is rubbing on the OE air filter box. Is it usable with that contact or is it required to get an aftermarket intake to provide the room?

The JR kit is likely your better bet. The fittings are 45 degree bends and flow better than the CF kit. They use the same Setrab core. The issue with the JR lines is not the lines fault, but the installation. You REALLY have to be careful (with any oil cooler install) to be sure the lines will not rub against anything. Even though it may not seem "sharp" to you, vibrate the hell out of it and add heat and tension, and pretty much anything will cut through a line. @900BRZ covered this in his videos and I've covered it in my build thread as well. Be careful how you run the lines and use zip ties to hold the lines in place.

Now, even though the JR air to oil cooler says to leave the OE HX in place, I have removed mine. You need to order an oil filter union to get rid of the OE HX and route the coolant hoses back, but I saw 5 to 7 psi bump in oil pressure by eliminating the OE HX. Warm up is slightly longer, but not a concern for me.
 
latapx, thank you for all the build info, very helpful!

I'm getting the JR cooler and plan to remove the OE HX. couple questions:

Where did you get the oil filter union? I see one on the color fittings site but it's out of stock. Looked on the toyota and subaru oem parts sites and it wasn't clear if their bolt for the filter was the correct one.

You show that once the OE HX is removed, the oil filter plate is rubbing on the OE air filter box. Is it usable with that contact or is it required to get an aftermarket intake to provide the room?
I beleive I used the OEM oil filter union for a 1st gen. I'd have to look through my amazon history to find it.

If you remove the OE HX with the JR kit, you will make contact on the back of the airbox. The CF kit won't interfere because it has the 90 degree fittings that don't flow as well.
 
That would be great if you could provide which OEM oil filter union you used!

Gotcha, is it doable to remove the OE HX in the future, after the initial JR kit installation with the OE HX left in place? I have a GR intake that is backordered but I'd like to install the JR cooler now.
 
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