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Does anyone have any input on Color Fittings vs Jackson Racing oil coolers?

7.2K views 63 replies 12 participants last post by  GravyRobber  
The JR kit is likely your better bet. The fittings are 45 degree bends and flow better than the CF kit. They use the same Setrab core. The issue with the JR lines is not the lines fault, but the installation. You REALLY have to be careful (with any oil cooler install) to be sure the lines will not rub against anything. Even though it may not seem "sharp" to you, vibrate the hell out of it and add heat and tension, and pretty much anything will cut through a line. @900BRZ covered this in his videos and I've covered it in my build thread as well. Be careful how you run the lines and use zip ties to hold the lines in place.

Now, even though the JR air to oil cooler says to leave the OE HX in place, I have removed mine. You need to order an oil filter union to get rid of the OE HX and route the coolant hoses back, but I saw 5 to 7 psi bump in oil pressure by eliminating the OE HX. Warm up is slightly longer, but not a concern for me.
 
I talked to the folks at AZP. Their recommendation was to RUN Jackson oil to air cooler without the stock, heat exchanger, and then block off cooler using corrugated plastic in the winter. Their opinion is that removing the HE is both removing a potential point of failure and boosting the oil pressure to possibly improve reliability of oil delivery. Their experience was that oil will get up to temp just fine in the winter with the cooler blocked off.

Their opinion was that there was some extra inherent risk with the oil to water combo cooler because in the unlikely event of an internal failure, the odds of catastrophic damage were high.

I’ll have them order me what I need and install it sometime over the next couple weekends. I’ll try to document the HE delete because I’ve never seen anyone post photos or vids of installing a JR cooler with the HE removed.
My build thread should have it as well as what you need to buy (oil filter union). If you can't find it, message me and I can help you out.
 
latapx, thank you for all the build info, very helpful!

I'm getting the JR cooler and plan to remove the OE HX. couple questions:

Where did you get the oil filter union? I see one on the color fittings site but it's out of stock. Looked on the toyota and subaru oem parts sites and it wasn't clear if their bolt for the filter was the correct one.

You show that once the OE HX is removed, the oil filter plate is rubbing on the OE air filter box. Is it usable with that contact or is it required to get an aftermarket intake to provide the room?
I beleive I used the OEM oil filter union for a 1st gen. I'd have to look through my amazon history to find it.

If you remove the OE HX with the JR kit, you will make contact on the back of the airbox. The CF kit won't interfere because it has the 90 degree fittings that don't flow as well.
 
Last of my thread hijack. Install complete. Final routing of lines and fitting torque sealed. Never seen a JR unit in person, but my thoughts on the CF are:

1. It uses the same core and overall same general design as the JR unit
2. Banjo fittings are absolutely not necessary with the stock intake. Had to swap one of the hose ends for a 90 (came as a 45).
3. With the additional fittings, it costs about the same as the JR kit, but loses the OEM HX. To delete the HX with the JR kit could cost yet again some extra adapters.

I picked the CF kit not because of cost, but I like the mount better (some like the JR mount better). I also just like to be different and support the little guys when I can CF's customer service was great, prompt shipping and communication. The kits are built to order, so keep that in mind.

I live in the American South, so I am not at all concerned with losing the OEM HX. I wanted my cooler to support the best flow and oil pressure possible, so this made the most sense to me. I think they are probably both great. JR has a long history or great products, so at the end of the day, it was a coin toss for me. Will finally be able to hit the track this August at Barber where it is sure to be scorching hot, so it will be a good test.

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That is VERY tight. Remember the engine mounts are rubber. Please check it after some track time.