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I was also using DS1.11. No problems with them. Well till they wear down to cca 4mm of material - they like to completely disintegrate then. I usually have cracked dust boots on front calipers. They start forming after about 600 track kilometers. Have not observed any problem with the seals. I use only road legal semi-slicks with not that much grip and these are limiting factor for me. Brakes (with racing pads) can easily lock them anytime during the sessions. For more aggressive brake technique, grippier tyres or prolonged sessions - I don't know, have no experience with that. BBK is definitely better solution, if you don't consider money, daily use... Btw 86 cup racing series in Japan uses stock sized rotors with stock calipers.
It really depends on the track configuration. You can't compare VIR with TSUKUBA.

From what I can tell, Japan has a lot of technical tracks where they don't have a lot of long straights (beside Suzuka).

In America, it's hard to find tracks that don't have straights with the car going above 100mph.

Tbh, I think BBK will pay itself in a long run. Consumables last much longer than stock consumables. My 1.11 stopped bitting as hard when they got down to 1/3 of its life. That's 300+USD a pop per axel for 2 to 3 events. My front rotors last me usually 3 to 4 weekends, which they are relatively cheap if I'm buying centric blanks.

BBK's consumables can last you a season or two at least.
 
That's 300+USD a pop per axel for 2 to 3 events. My front rotors last me usually 3 to 4 weekends, which they are relatively cheap if I'm buying centric blanks.
How many km/miles are your 2-3 events? Looking into my records I usually get 1000-1500 track kilometers from one set of (front) pads (on big tracks with > 100mph top speed). Usually I changed (OEM sized) rotors together with the pads (they can last about 1,5 set of pads, use them more and risk cracked rotor on trackday). Pads for front axle are about 200-250 USD, rotors (chinese Brembo) about 80 per pair.
 
How many km/miles are your 2-3 events? Looking into my records I usually get 1000-1500 track kilometers from one set of (front) pads (on big tracks with > 100mph top speed). Usually I changed (OEM sized) rotors together with the pads (they can last about 1,5 set of pads, use them more and risk cracked rotor on trackday). Pads for front axle are about 200-250 USD, rotors (chinese Brembo) about 80 per pair.
Unfortunately I don't track the distance that I usually do per session @Outtopasture can shine some light at this for 20 mins session at CMP.

For the state, we usually get DS1.11 for 330~USD
 
Unfortunately I don't track the distance that I usually do per session @Outtopasture can shine some light at this for 20 mins session at CMP.

For the state, we usually get DS1.11 for 330~USD
Most of the groups I drive with have 30 minutes sessions and at a smaller slower track like Carolina Motorsports Park I average 150 miles per day and at a larger faster track like Virginia International Raceway I average 180 miles per day. Front brake pads for the AP Racing endurance package lasts about 14 days and cost $300 for the front. I use carbotech XP 10 or project mu Club racer advanced for the OEM rear and they last about 24 days.
 
I started with HAWK DTC60 mainly because they were cheap at around $200. Ran these with HP+ rear pads.
29 laps x3.7 miles = 107 miles and more than half the pad was gone.

COBALT XR2 - $309. Ran these with XR4 rear pads.
43 laps x 2.2 miles = 94 miles and about half the pad was gone

CSG C21 - $450. Ran these with C11 rear pads.
45 x 2.2 = 99 miles
40 x 3.7 = 148 miles
Pads were gone.

BBK - Ferodo DS1.11 - $600. First track days with the C11 rear pad (too much front bias) so added DS1.11 rear pads for next 3 track days.
150 laps x 3.7 = 555 miles and still going.

This only shows the pad life. I went through 2 sets of OE size rotors in less than 300 miles of track work. The BBK rotors still don't know they have been on track.
Brake feel is worlds apart. PLUS I'm going waaay deeper into.braking zones lap after lap without issue.
For me, my driving style, my tracks, OE brakes are insufficient. Your mileage may vary.
 
How many km/miles are your 2-3 events? Looking into my records I usually get 1000-1500 track kilometers from one set of (front) pads (on big tracks with > 100mph top speed). Usually I changed (OEM sized) rotors together with the pads (they can last about 1,5 set of pads, use them more and risk cracked rotor on trackday). Pads for front axle are about 200-250 USD, rotors (chinese Brembo) about 80 per pair.
1000km /1.6 = 625 miles from a set of OE pads. Either your tracks are slower paced, no hard brake zones or you simply don't push very hard on track.

The pad usage/wear I posted earlier is based on my lapping which is basically TT pace for the entire session.
 
What happened to rotors - uneven pad deposit, too thin, too many (hairline) cracks?
Heat stress cracks or heat checking...rotors were also deformed (thicker on outside edge than inside edge...this happens with single piece rotors in extreme heat...there is no other way for them to expand.
 
Not OE pads. DS1.11 in OE size/calipers. In prev gen car on fast tracks and pushing as hard as the ABS/tyres (road legal semi-slicks) let me.
Understood...under my use conditions, no track pad will last any longer than 2 or 3 track days on the OE sized brakes. In speaking with locals who have been running Gen 1 cars for MANY years, the brakes have always been a weak spot for our local tracks when running TT times. Under casual use, that is a different story. if you are pushing hard, they just won't last long.

Sample Sebring lap

This is an example of a Sebring lap...had a strong headwind this weekend as back straight is typically 122-125mph and only saw 118 on this lap.
 
Understood...under my use conditions, no track pad will last any longer than 2 or 3 track days on the OE sized brakes. In speaking with locals who have been running Gen 1 cars for MANY years, the brakes have always been a weak spot for our local tracks when running TT times. Under casual use, that is a different story. if you are pushing hard, they just won't last long.

Sample Sebring lap

This is an example of a Sebring lap...had a strong headwind this weekend as back straight is typically 122-125mph and only saw 118 on this lap.
I wonder if Verus' brake cooling ducts will help on the consumables. But I feel like thermal shocking the rotors will crack them as easily as running them really hot.
 
I wonder if Verus' brake cooling ducts will help on the consumables. But I feel like thermal shocking the rotors will crack them as easily as running them really hot.
This is why Essex tells you NOT to run any ducting. The rotors can overcool on the straights, or cool unevenly which is even worse.
Remember that when a rotor heats up, it wants to expand OUTWARD. The 1 piece rotor can't do this, so it ends up "coning". The outer edge of the rotor expands in thickness compared to the hub edge of the disc face. This is what causes the heat stress cracking. Another factor is that the outside face of the rotor is typically way hotter then the internal portion of the rotor. This delta in temps also adds to the heat stress.
Think of it this way. If your rotor is seeing 1400 to 1500 degrees, so is your wheel, your hub, your bearings. My calipers were also seeing 550+. This was with the temp strip placed on the bridge over the rotor which will be cooler than the pistons in contact with the back of the pad. Piston seals are not meant to handle that heat which means that the caliper becomes a consumable. So do your wheel bearings.
I was always taught (by people WAAY smarter and faster behind the wheel) that you want to run the least aggressive pad that will get you the performance you need. With OE sized brakes, you are forced to run a more aggressive pad which decreases modulation and increases the probability of ABS interaction. The brakes become an on/off switch. With the BBK you can run a less aggressive pad that will be happy working at lower temps, you still get the same torque at the wheel due to the lever arm of the larger rotor, but the less aggressive compound is MUCH more manageable.
 
Having talked with a few people that I've tracked with that have GR's (most from Sebring), all of them have mentioned race brakes and rotors not lasting more than 2-3 events. As has been mentioned, Sebring is very hard on brakes and obviously your results may very. These cars were also driven by instructors with lots of experience as well.

The picture below is not my picture as it was sent to me by a buddy whose friend has a GR. This is the wear of the rotor after roughly 2 days or so of tracking with race pads and 200tw tires at Sebring. I'm not sure if the driver is on this forum or not and can elaborate exact details.
 
Having talked with a few people that I've tracked with that have GR's (most from Sebring), all of them have mentioned race pads and rotors not lasting more than 2-3 events. As has been mentioned, Sebring is very hard on brakes and obviously your results may very. These cars were also driven by instructors with lots of experience as well.

The picture below is not my picture as it was sent to me by a buddy whose friend tracks his GR. From what I'm told, this is the wear of the rotor after roughly 2 days or so of tracking with race pads and 200tw tires at Sebring. I'm not sure if the driver is on this forum and could provide further details.

Image
 
Having talked with a few people that I've tracked with that have GR's (most from Sebring), all of them have mentioned race pads and rotors not lasting more than 2-3 events. As has been mentioned, Sebring is very hard on brakes and obviously your results may very. These cars were also driven by instructors with lots of experience as well.

The picture below is not my picture as it was sent to me by a buddy whose friend tracks his GR. From what I'm told, this is the wear of the rotor after roughly 2 days or so of tracking with race pads and 200tw tires at Sebring. I'm not sure if the driver is on this forum and could provide further details.

View attachment 32659
I'm going to guess those brake pads were never flipped. To avoid that severe grooving you can swap the pads left and right and inside and out. It's significantly helps extend the life of the brake pad and the rotor
 
That looks like the pads may have 100% worn out and backing plate contacted the rotor.

Just noticed the bottom of the rotor has a crack across the surface.
Unfortunately, I don't know the full details on how they got to this condition and could only speculate. Here's that crack on the bottom up close.

Image


Needless to say, AP Racing brakes are already on my list for this car. I'm just undecided on which kit exactly.
 
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