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Talked to my neighbor (alignment guy) and he said it had more negative camber in it, saw as high as -2.8. But -2.5 is what I asked for as I thought that’s more than enough for a street car (and I don’t want excessive tire wear)
 
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I think my alignment guy said mine could go to around -2.75 or so, but it's dialed back to -1.5F.

Trying to decide which makes more sense: -1.5F/-1.0R or -2F/-1.5R (-1.5F/-1.5R atm)
 
Do you notice a difference driving with -2.5 vs -1.5?
Basically all the benefits of adding negative camber in the first place were amplified (sharper turn in being the biggest thing I noticed).
 
Paging @Neptune86 since it sounds like OP does his own alignments. Did you encounter any difficulties when you went for your first alignment? A couple of shops now have told me basically all they can do is measure the current specs due to the difficulty of adjusting the bolts while on the rack. I don't particularly want to keep throwing money at alignments while I play trial and error self-adjusting everything. Going to continue trying other shops but curious if this is common.
 
Paging @Neptune86 since it sounds like OP does his own alignments. Did you encounter any difficulties when you went for your first alignment? A couple of shops now have told me basically all they can do is measure the current specs due to the difficulty of adjusting the bolts while on the rack. I don't particularly want to keep throwing money at alignments while I play trial and error self-adjusting everything. Going to continue trying other shops but curious if this is common.
Toe is adjustable front and back.
Camber is not adjustable with stock parts.
 
Correct. I am asking about alignment with front camber bolts installed, the subject of the thread.
I think a lot of owner installing front camber bolts will just just max out the negative camber and just drive. Hopefully your particular car is fairly symmetrical from factory and will not have to adjust it once you bolt it up. I’m not sure how much the toe changes with 1-2 degrees of camber change:
Someone else mentioned it elsewhere. You could get your toe adjusted if you don’t like the steering characteristics but most owners don’t seem to get an alignment after installing front camber bolts
 
Correct. I am asking about alignment with front camber bolts installed, the subject of the thread.
You are right, I answered in a hurry :)

What I did when I installed the bolts was to use an angle meter and in the shop it proved to be spot on. I believe that an angle meter of a smart phone is good enough for this job as long as you use a bar to “attach” the meter/phone in the rim.
 
I think a lot of owner installing front camber bolts will just just max out the negative camber and just drive. Hopefully your particular car is fairly symmetrical from factory and will not have to adjust it once you bolt it up. I’m not sure how much the toe changes with 1-2 degrees of camber change:
Someone else mentioned it elsewhere. You could get your toe adjusted if you don’t like the steering characteristics but most owners don’t seem to get an alignment after installing front camber bolts
Could be that most just leave it. I was asking in this thread since some have posted formal alignments and specifically mentioned "what they could get" out of the camber bolts implying that the tech was adjusting the bolts during the alignment.

I am still on factory alignment with camber bolts installed and want to at least dial in toe, set front camber to its "final" value until I replace suspension altogether, and identify any issues with the factory alignment tolerances such as the rear camber split OP experienced.
 
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