I think even for less experienced people like me, brake fluid, track pads, and camber bolts are good starting points. I also had 245 tires on prior to my first HPDE with the car.

Now I have gone a bit further with adding an oil cooler, and if you are an advanced driver wanting to go ten tenths and compete, it might be an idea. Easy enough for me to back off on straights or even a full lap, probably harder if you’re trying to manage track position in a TT though I have no direct experience doing so. I bought it due to my location and hitting 260+deg F on track, and I’m not even particularly fast or experienced on track (background was lots of auto cross in multiple chassis).

People seem to like the AP racing BBK options; I’ve heard good things about the sprint, endurance, and radi-cal options for these cars. In my reading and conversations with people who know more than me, a 6-piston Brembo or AP setup is probably overkill unless you are north of 400 hp. Could be different if you are competing though.

Lots of good coil options and with LCAs you can get a setup pretty dialed. The prepared 86 guys I’ve talked to are usually -3.5 to -4.5 in front, and then a degree less (more…) in the rear. Even with my camber bolts at -1.5 and an alignment at a race shop, the difference is there. I personally don’t have coils yet, but when I do I will be buying something with digressive valving. (Ohlins ever coming for Gen 2?!!?).

It sounds like this will be no surprise to you but oil is a divisive topic here. I am on 5w30 Amsoil SS and the car sees some daily commuting when the weather is warmer, and track days. Almost all of these cars burn oil, and it may not be predictable. People report burning no oil on track, but then lose some putting around town. Some vice versa. The point I’m coming to is that checking oil “over the top frequently” on these cars is particularly important. Some people have opted for a baffle plate, I haven’t yet, and Killer B Motorsports has stated that this pan is a better design than older Subaru designs, but still susceptible to such issues.

What else… the computer records everything you do and seems to store the data going further back than I expected. I don’t know how far back, but my assumption is that if I have an issue, there are no secrets of when, where, and what was going on, and a full picture of my driving history and habits.

Also people compare our factory wheel studs to cheese, and many have destroyed them. I don’t want an expensive track day to end in the paddock with a broken stud, so I added ARP 3-in studs.

I’m done rambling about stuff you probably already know, cheers!

 

Me personally, I would not track a daily if I was into that.. But I am not into tracking / racing. I just enjoy a fun car I can take on the backroads.

 

Me personally, I would not track a daily

This.

 

tracking your only dd with a subaru engine is usually a recipe for a new engine. granted this was more usual on ej engined cars.

with seats down, you can get a full set of tires in. probably a set of discs/pads and the tools to swap both. There's a couple cars that have added hitches so you could put everything in a small flatbed. swapping track parts for street parts provides least cost long term.

Adding a cage should be a high priority or not.

Expect to be doing frequent maintenance on fluids.

buy a race car, haul it to the track or pay a shop to handle it for you. Driving 10/10ths in something that doesn't have to be running on Monday morning is much cheaper than opposite

 

Echoing @boxkita : a couple decades ago, one of the first times I taped a number to a car, an old timer gave me some advice I still go by today: “don’t take your car to the track if you can’t afford to leave it there.”

Not saying OP needs to hear this as it sounds like they have done a good deal of this before, but I’ve always thought it was a succinct and salient comment.

 

Why don’t you start with autocross? It’s a good gateway drug and honestly the best place to drive 10/10th. SCCA should abs a local chapter that host events and most major cities will have one for BMW and Porsche.

Even on track you’re not going to be pushing it 10/10th with the fear of putting writing off the car.

Autocross is prob the best way to learn car control. The only downside is the seat time is very limited outside of certain events.

 

If you have a competition license, I'm assuming you know how to handle a car. Upgrade engine oil, trans oil and diff oils to handle heat. Upgrade brake fluid and brake pads to handle heat. Get camber bolts and 200tw tires and drive around with a smile on your face. This is the cheapest route to max fun.

 

Stick to Sport 4 class in SCCA TT and you should be golden.

Sport Category is intended for daily-driven street cars on tires with a treadwear rating of 200 or higher with simple bolt-on modifications.
Modifications typically allowed in Sport:

• OBD-based ECU reflashes
• Most wheels
• Single-adjustable fixed-perched shocks
• Lowering spring kits
• Some camber allowances for Strut-type suspension
• Direct-replacement sway bars
• Cold-air intakes
• Cat-back exhausts
• Radiator and fluid coolers
• Brake option packages and some cosmetic modifications from a different trim model of the vehicle—like swapping spoilers

Ultralight wheels, some types of aftermarket camber-adjustment, ride-height adjusting coilovers, racing springs, speedway-style sway bars, chassis bracing and aftermarket-ECU are not allowed. Click here to find the full Sport Category Rules.

 

I'm fairly seasoned and felt like I was able to push the car pretty hard with pads (XP12's F/R), SRF brake fluid, front camber bolts, and 225 RT615k+ on the stock wheels.

For reference, here is a lap of the track I found on youtube in another BRZ (MSR Cresson):

I did a best of 1:26.8 back in Jan with Apex HPDE, though it was my first time there.

IMO, the only thing you really need to have fun in the car is good oil, brakes, and grip (if you want it). Car is fairly solid AFAICT for some lapping. My only concern is some of the oil starvation I've seen reported, but I haven't seen a whole lot of blown engines, so... Until some of the people that track much more frequently than me start popping I figure I'm prob still ok. 😅

 

I'm fairly seasoned and felt like I was able to push the car pretty hard with pads (XP12's F/R), SRF brake fluid, front camber bolts, and 225 RT615k+ on the stock wheels.

@nissanfanatic - I am still going through break-in but I have a very similar plan:

Purchased just need to install:

• Brakes: Endless - RF-650 + Gloc R10 F/R (these are basically a copy of XP10
• Camber: SPC bolt on the bottom + bottom bolt up top
• Oil: GTX Full Synthetic 5W-30
• Kill of stock PS4s

Short-term shopping list

• Konig Dekagrams 17x8
• 225 RT615k+ (super cheap now!)

Longer-term;

• Suspension: Ohlins / RCE / XIDA / MCS
• Rear LCA

Lots of seat-time!

 

Get 17x9 and you can run a 245 Hankook which is not as grippy. If you want to chase times, then install a 255 rt660 or re71rs. Just don't sell yourself short with the wheel width.

 

yea I saw @Dom's wheels for sale. If they were closer I'd def go check them out. 😅

I'm like really between hypergrams, or just do RPF1s in +45 for the extra tire clearance in the rear and do a spacer up front w/ARP studs until I inevitably get a set of coilovers. decisions decisions.

 

I would recommend something like +45 or +42 over +38 for a track setup. Typically 200tw tires are wider.