Toyota GR86 Forum - GT86 Forum, Subaru BRZ Forum, Scion ... banner

Wrapping My 2022 BRZ

1077 Views 11 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  Liehtw8
Hey, folks.

Got my white Limited MT BRZ in December '21. Now has about 10.5k miles on it. I've done a few mods here and there, mostly cosmetic: catback, spacers, filter, spoiler, lip, side skirts, tail lights, 4th brake light, side markers, LED upgrades, underglow, carbon fiber hood.

I started wrapping my car in KPMF Absolute Matte Royal Amethyst vinyl about 4 weeks ago, in April. Just finished two days ago. I was determined to do this by myself, so even though it came out with some imperfections I'm pretty happy with it. I learned a ton about wrapping and about the car itself, and I plan on doing it again with a new color in a few years once the vinyl has run its course.

Before I started wrapping, I watched probably 30-50 hours of wrapping tutorials on YouTube, mostly from CK Wraps who does an incredible job of explaining why he does things a certain way. There are other great channels out there, so find someone you vibe with if you want to learn, but keep in mind that watching someone do it is NOT the same as doing it yourself, so you can really only learn from experience with this hobby.

This thread is to give anyone considering wrapping their car an idea of the work involved from the perspective of a beginner (assuming you're a beginner yourself at wrapping) and to answer any questions anyone might have.

Links to the vinyl I used:
KPMF Absolute Matte Royal Amethyst - Amount & cost: 5ft x 75ft for $709
KPMF Gloss Perfect Black - Amount & cost: 5ft x 15ft for $145
VViViD Light Smoke Headlight Tint - Amount & cost: One roll (covers two lights) for $17.24

Additionally, I ordered tons of tools and random things that would help me out. There was too much to list everything or give you exact costs, but it probably all came out to about $200-300. Items I can remember off the top of my head are listed below. The links aren't necessarily the exact items I purchased, but they are similar just to give you an idea.
  • Snitty (cutting tool, allows you to cut large pieces of vinyl quickly off the roll)
  • Utility Cutting Knife (I actually ordered 3 just in case, ended up using two)
  • 3M Design Line Knifeless Tape (will make your life so much easier)
  • Heat Gun (absolutely necessary. Link takes you to a bundle I bought on Amazon that I recommend)
  • Vinyl Tucking Tools (see link above, though I did purchase more from VViVid that were thinner)
  • Wrapping Gloves (see link above)
  • Squeegees (see link above, again I did purchase some extra ones with different firmness)
  • Magnets (see link above, bundle comes with two but I would recommend getting two more)
  • 3M Double Sided Auto Mounting Tape
  • 3M Painter's Tape
  • Auto Trim Removal Kit
  • Fender Clip Replacement Kit
  • Cleaning & Prep:

To start, here was my car just before beginning the wrap:



Step One: General Prep

Washed the car thoroughly, including inside the wheel wells, under the car along the edges, inside the hood, trunk, and doors, inside the fender and hood vents, and any other little nooks and crannies you may usually dismiss while washing. Anywhere you need covered needs to be clean, and you have to keep in mind that you will be tucking the vinyl behind the panels so you need the edges and as far into the backs of those panels to be clean as well.

I also went ahead and removed my roof vortex generator, trunk spoiler, rear badge/emblem, and side skirts. Easiest to do everything you can all at once if possible. I used Goo Gone Adhesive Remover to get rid of all the glue, then fresh 3M double sided auto mounting tape to reattach everything once the car was wrapped.

Step Two: The Roof

I mean to get better pictures (and even videos) of the entire process, but it ended up taking much longer than I expected and my hours/availability to work on the car were a little hectic. So, unfortunately I do not have any close up pictures of this step while I was working on it.

I removed the roof rails (start from the rear and pry out, then wiggle back and forth while lifting to CAREFULLY nudge the rest of it out.) The back has a standard pressure-sensitive clip but going forward there are 3 sets of four "hooks", two on each side, that you have to unhook the railing from. These can break. I broke one. Be more careful than me. You can watch Kevin Vo's video to help with removal (and wrapping the roof) here.

As you'll see in later pictures, I went with gloss black for my roof, including the antenna. This was a very good starting point because the roof is mostly flat, and it's easy to get to since it's not as low to the ground as other parts of the car. Tuck as deeply into the roof rail pits as you can, as it's easy to misjudge and leave some of the normal car paint exposed once the rails are back in. Also be very careful with the rubber seal along the rear and front windshields. For convenience, I ended up just leaving the wrap over these seals, but it doesn't look great. It's very hard to get the vinyl tucked in behind them properly, but it can be done with patience and some good tucking tools (the idea is to cut first, then gently lift the seal with one tool while pressing the vinyl down into the gap with your other hand.)

The antenna was very difficult, but there are great tutorials out there on YouTube for pieces like this. Keep in mind this can be done by leaving the antenna on the roof, but I wanted to get the roof done as thoroughly as possible so I removed it. The door handles are very similar to the antenna, in that they have to be off of the car to do a great job on them, and that makes it very difficult, but there are tricks. Personally I used the open window method, linked here from someone's YouTube channel.

Step Three: The Trunk




As you can see in this picture, the trunk technically has two pieces: one piece that makes up the bulk of the trunk, then a separate piece you can actually remove that includes the black bar, the rear camera, the 3rd brake light, and probably your spoiler. Kevin Vo has a video tutorial for removing this piece here, for his trunk brake light installation. I made the mistake of trying to wrap the top of the trunk with this piece attached, in three pieces, which did not go well. In the picture, you can see what happened. I removed the removable piece, then I realized I could have just done this all in one piece (or at least wrapped the top and bottom with that piece removed so that I could tuck deeper into the recess.) You will just need to make sure you don't cover those holes, or cut through them if you do, as that's how the piece attaches.



Here's how it looked when I removed the spoiler and tried to wrap just that middle piece and the top of the trunk. I don't have a good picture of the tuck, but it was not tucked well in that recess between the removable piece and the top deck of the trunk. I redid all of this later.



Here is the trunk fully wrapped, but I hadn't yet cut out the camera and 3rd brake light. Those were very hard to do. Take it slow, use heat, and don't go crazy with the knife until you are positive how deep into the recesses you need to go.



Here is the final look. I actually re-did the bottom piece later because I didn't like some of the cutting towards the top. Wrapping the trunk is relatively easy, as each side is pretty flat. The only tough part is moving the trunk up and down a lot. I recommend removing the tail lights before you do this. I left mine wired through the whole process, and just had them sitting in the trunk but still powered and functional.

Step Four: Small Pieces and Doors

I took this chance to knock out my gas lid and the fender accents (where the vents are, behind the front wheels.) I chose to do those gloss black, not sure why but I like it like this. I didn't do it because I was in a rush to make some progress, but before wrapping those I would recommend removing them from the car to make sure you get a great tuck behind them. You must remove the lower rocker panels first, then remove the accent/vent piece. It does have some double sided tape at the top. As for the gas lid, it was super easy, but be sure not to use a lot of heat here (because gas.)




Next up was the doors. These are an ABSOLUTE PAIN. Just getting them apart was more difficult than probably anything else about wrapping the car. I used this video to help with getting the handles off, and this one for the mirrors. Removing both will make your job so much easier, so I recommend just getting it done with. For the handles, you'll have to pull the inner piece off from the inside, then reach under the window mechanism to undo some clips. Just be patient and try to get an understanding of what you're pulling at, and you won't break anything. It takes some force. Removing the mirrors at this point is a breeze, just keep in mind there are 3 bolts on the mirror itself you'll have to remove first.



Anyways, wrapping the door itself is really not that bad once everything is removed. Using heat to dip into the door handle recess is a breeze. Just be sure you wrap into the car far enough. The only part that may give you trouble is the front side of the door, towards the front of the car, because it's hard to get in there properly even with the door open.



As you can probably tell from some earlier pictures, I had some aftermarket door handle covers that I had to forcefully remove to get rid of the white peeking through for the sensors. Wrapping the sensors will not affect their functionality, so don't worry. The door handles are extremely difficult to wrap properly, but just like with the rest of the job, take your time, be patient, and maybe watch some tutorials.



The mirror caps can also be a pain. Be careful with removing them, and don't force it. I broke some clips on my cap and had to order a replacement, and because I have an IQ of 2000 (jk) I ordered one in black so I wouldn't have to wrap it. They don't match perfectly, but ya know what? I don't care. Anyway, if you're wrapping the cap, be careful about tucking properly around every corner. It will lift if you don't get it right.

Continuing in reply due to attachment limit.
See less See more
10
  • Like
Reactions: 4
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Step Five: Rear Bumper

This panel sucks. I'd say it's even more difficult than the front bumper, which looks a lot more intimidating, for a couple reasons: The recess where the licence plate goes is complicated and deep, the panel is actually pretty large as far as how much vinyl you'll need all in one piece, and then you have the very sharp and awkward ledge for the trunk.

You'll have to do the ledge and the licence plate recess separately, with inlays. This is one of the spots where knifeless tape will be your absolute best friend, but it can be tricky to use at first. I'm still not happy with how my inlays ended up looking, as you can see my seams and some choppy cuts, but I'm leaving it as is for now. Otherwise, take your sweet time with the large part of the bumper to save yourself some heartache. Wrap as deeply into the tail light recesses as you can, and as with any large piece, start from the middle and SLOWLY work outwards. Cutting along the bottom where the black plastic piece sits was the hardest cutting of the vehicle for me, because there's nowhere to tuck the vinyl (unless you remove that piece, which I didn't want to bother with. Maybe you can do that to save yourself from my pain.)





If you look closely in that picture, you can see some discoloration on the right middle corner due to poor stretches and overheating. There are also a couple wrinkles I basically screwed myself out of being able to fix by laying the vinyl in too closely to them without fixing them first.

I have some lifting (not pictured, it started later) along the bottom plastic diffuser piece in this area that I still need to fix. This is due to overstretching and stretching in the wrong direction. If I had enough vinyl to redo the bumper, I would, but I've learned from the mistakes. Just be careful with this one.

Step Six: Rocker Panels & Quarter Panels

The rocker panels are deceiving, because they go further into the car than it seems from the outside. Meaning, you can't just wrap the bottom part, because the top (even past the 90-degree corner) is still visible from outside the car. I recommend PARTIALLY removing the panel. Remove all the clips under the car, then pull on the panel, but leave the left side attached while you do the right side, and vice versa. That way, you can easily wrap all the way up to the top and have a solid line when you're done. It does get very, very tricky around the corner where the door opens up just above it. I already have lifting here on my driver's side, which for now I'm just going to patch.




The quarter panels are very daunting because they require a MASSIVE cut of the vinyl (you have to basically account for the full length of the vehicle due to the piece that goes over the window), but it's easier than it looks. You will need to once again remove the roof railing (if you've reinstalled already), take off the rocker panel (again, if you've reinstalled), and then there is a small piece under the hood in the very corner towards the windshield that I personally chose to remove. It wasn't hard, just sits at an awkward angle, so just wiggle it around a bit and you'll get it out without having to undo any bolts or clips.

The most difficult parts are the gas lid area (unless you remove the gas lid, which in retrospect I should have done. It is VERY hard to wrap deeply into the gas area with the lid in the way) and along the windows, because you are running into the rubber seals again. The seal along the side windows was a nightmare, and unfortunately I rushed it a bit and ended up cutting into the rubber quite a bit. Instead, do as I recommended earlier and lift with one hand while tucking with another hand. This is another piece I would absolutely redo if I had the spare vinyl, but I don't, so I'm leaving the imperfections until I redo my car later.

Again, you will need the tail lights out for this one. Get deep into the trunk recess, tail light recesses, and the corner that goes into the hood/windshield area. Tuck underneath the wheel well also. The little piece on the back side above the rear tire is attached with double sided tape, so it's easy to remove and reinstall. I wrapped that off the car separately, and it was very easy.

Other than that, the quarter panels really aren't that hard since it's just a big flat piece.



Step Seven: Fenders (And Headlights, Optional)

The fenders are pretty straight-forward. Remove the accent/vent piece, tuck under it, tuck under the wheel well. The only real tricky part is around the headlights. I tried very hard to actually remove my headlights, but it is really hard to get them out, so I ended up just getting them loose and wiggling them out of the way so I could tuck behind them. Just be careful, and tuck as deeply as you can.

I removed the front bumper before doing this, which I recommend.



This is also where I went ahead and did my headlights with smoke film, which is obviously completely optional. It was very easy, just one quick cut along the edge of the lights.




Continued.
See less See more
9
  • Like
Reactions: 3
Step Eight: Front Bumper (And Hood)

It should be noted here that I have an aftermarket carbon fiber hood, which has a TON of ridges, divots, corners, and edges. I tried very hard, twice, to wrap the hood, and it came out disgusting. It was hard to get the lines right because of the ridges, all of the corners started lifting after only one day, and I kept accidentally cutting into the carbon itself. An OEM hood would be SUPER easy, so much so that it could be your first panel if you want, but I cannot stress enough the difficulty of doing an aftermarket one with vents, especially if you plan on leaving any of the carbon exposed like I did. After my attempts, I gave up and left it completely unwrapped. You win, carbon fiber. You win.

That said, the front bumper is ALSO very difficult. I would imagine the GR bumper being quite a bit easier than the BRZ bumper, since it has more rigid and flat surfaces with fewer curves overall, but I think either of them will be fairly difficult.

With the bumper off the car, I did some inlays for the small ridge along the bottom of the headlights. If I were to do this again, I would also do a ton of inlays along the bottom, especially where the vents are on either side. Stupidly, besides the headlight pieces, I did the entire bumper in one piece, and I ended up having to patch up where the vents are.

Just like with the rear bumper, this is a LARGE piece of vinyl, so you don't want to screw it up. Take your time, work from the middle and go outward from there. Wrap as far underneath the car as you can before you start getting a ton of wrinkles. I wasn't super worried about it because I have a front lip that will cover those wrinkles, but without it you would see them.

Before you reattach the bumper, remove badge and the vents and grille from the inside. There are two bolts for the angular black piece at the bottom, and two clips for a piece that attaches to the vents (where the vents are for the front wheel wells.) Otherwise, it's just a bunch of hooks that keep these pieces in place, so they're easy to remove and reattach.

Unfortunately, I did not get a ton of pictures of this process, as it was the final stretch and I was just focused on being done.



Put the bumper back on, but I did this loosely so I could pull it out and tuck where I needed to. Wrap, remove the bumper, reattach all the pieces, then reattach the bumper. Done.



Step Nine: Cleanup and Touch-Ups

This part is self-explanatory but I figured I'd include it because I made it this far into this write-up, which by the way is more detailed than I planned on. I went through and checked all my clips, reattached any I had still laying around, put my side skirts back on, checked that all the panels were tight and attached properly, reconnected my side markers, etc. I also bought some Matte sealant spray from Chemical Guys that is sort of a temporary ceramic spray specifically for matte finishes, and cleaned the car thoroughly with it.

I personally also added some other stickers here, though 86% of the 86 community thinks I'm a dumbass for doing so, but that's okay because we all have different taste and mine has always been.. weird, I guess.

Patching your vinyl is not recommended for fixing issues, but I did it a lot because I don't have the funds or time to buy more and re-wrap the car. Since it's temporary anyway, I'm doing some small patching here and there as I notice issues. I've got some glaring problems, and if you're up close to the car in good sun light you will notice all the imperfections, but I'm proud of my work either way. Next time will be even better with the knowledge I have gained.

I have some new badge overlays coming that will match the car, and I honestly will probably remove the kanji stickers pretty soon as they didn't come out quite as I expected. I'll be tinkering with it quite a bit to see what I like.

So, that's it. Below are some pictures of the final product. Thanks for reading, and if you want to wrap your car and still have any unanswered questions after this novel, you can always reach out to me. I may be slow to respond here on the forum since I'm not very active here, but you can reach me on TikTok or Instagram @kalamityBRZ and I will reply as instantly as I can.











See less See more
8
  • Like
  • Love
  • Helpful
Reactions: 5
Step Eight: Front Bumper (And Hood)

It should be noted here that I have an aftermarket carbon fiber hood, which has a TON of ridges, divots, corners, and edges. I tried very hard, twice, to wrap the hood, and it came out disgusting. It was hard to get the lines right because of the ridges, all of the corners started lifting after only one day, and I kept accidentally cutting into the carbon itself. An OEM hood would be SUPER easy, so much so that it could be your first panel if you want, but I cannot stress enough the difficulty of doing an aftermarket one with vents, especially if you plan on leaving any of the carbon exposed like I did. After my attempts, I gave up and left it completely unwrapped. You win, carbon fiber. You win.

That said, the front bumper is ALSO very difficult. I would imagine the GR bumper being quite a bit easier than the BRZ bumper, since it has more rigid and flat surfaces with fewer curves overall, but I think either of them will be fairly difficult.

With the bumper off the car, I did some inlays for the small ridge along the bottom of the headlights. If I were to do this again, I would also do a ton of inlays along the bottom, especially where the vents are on either side. Stupidly, besides the headlight pieces, I did the entire bumper in one piece, and I ended up having to patch up where the vents are.

Just like with the rear bumper, this is a LARGE piece of vinyl, so you don't want to screw it up. Take your time, work from the middle and go outward from there. Wrap as far underneath the car as you can before you start getting a ton of wrinkles. I wasn't super worried about it because I have a front lip that will cover those wrinkles, but without it you would see them.

Before you reattach the bumper, remove badge and the vents and grille from the inside. There are two bolts for the angular black piece at the bottom, and two clips for a piece that attaches to the vents (where the vents are for the front wheel wells.) Otherwise, it's just a bunch of hooks that keep these pieces in place, so they're easy to remove and reattach.

Unfortunately, I did not get a ton of pictures of this process, as it was the final stretch and I was just focused on being done.

View attachment 27029

Put the bumper back on, but I did this loosely so I could pull it out and tuck where I needed to. Wrap, remove the bumper, reattach all the pieces, then reattach the bumper. Done.

View attachment 27030

Step Nine: Cleanup and Touch-Ups

This part is self-explanatory but I figured I'd include it because I made it this far into this write-up, which by the way is more detailed than I planned on. I went through and checked all my clips, reattached any I had still laying around, put my side skirts back on, checked that all the panels were tight and attached properly, reconnected my side markers, etc. I also bought some Matte sealant spray from Chemical Guys that is sort of a temporary ceramic spray specifically for matte finishes, and cleaned the car thoroughly with it.

I personally also added some other stickers here, though 86% of the 86 community thinks I'm a dumbass for doing so, but that's okay because we all have different taste and mine has always been.. weird, I guess.

Patching your vinyl is not recommended for fixing issues, but I did it a lot because I don't have the funds or time to buy more and re-wrap the car. Since it's temporary anyway, I'm doing some small patching here and there as I notice issues. I've got some glaring problems, and if you're up close to the car in good sun light you will notice all the imperfections, but I'm proud of my work either way. Next time will be even better with the knowledge I have gained.

I have some new badge overlays coming that will match the car, and I honestly will probably remove the kanji stickers pretty soon as they didn't come out quite as I expected. I'll be tinkering with it quite a bit to see what I like.

So, that's it. Below are some pictures of the final product. Thanks for reading, and if you want to wrap your car and still have any unanswered questions after this novel, you can always reach out to me. I may be slow to respond here on the forum since I'm not very active here, but you can reach me on TikTok or Instagram @kalamityBRZ and I will reply as instantly as I can.

View attachment 27031

View attachment 27032

View attachment 27033

View attachment 27034

View attachment 27036

View attachment 27035

Thank you for sharing your experience. We were originally in the market for either the GR86 Trueno Blue or the BRZ Sapphire or WRB. Unfortunately, we have been unable to find anything in the blues, so we settled on ordering Gray as my dealer was only able to get an allocation for that color.

We settled on the gray as my daughter now wants to learn and give it a try to wrap the car. We will probably keep the roof unwrapped, while it's not going to be black like most roofs, it will be dark gray which I'm hoping is close enough. Also hoping a dark gray roof will not get as hot.

Curious if you went through all 75 ft. A buddy of mine estimated I would need between 40 to 50 ft. of vinyl for a whole car wrap.
  • Like
  • Helpful
Reactions: 3
This looks great. Vinyl wrapping takes immense patience. I love the color you chose. Enjoy your car.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Can't wait to see it in person Marc!!
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Well done!
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Thank you for sharing your experience. We were originally in the market for either the GR86 Trueno Blue or the BRZ Sapphire or WRB. Unfortunately, we have been unable to find anything in the blues, so we settled on ordering Gray as my dealer was only able to get an allocation for that color.

We settled on the gray as my daughter now wants to learn and give it a try to wrap the car. We will probably keep the roof unwrapped, while it's not going to be black like most roofs, it will be dark gray which I'm hoping is close enough. Also hoping a dark gray roof will not get as hot.

Curious if you went through all 75 ft. A buddy of mine estimated I would need between 40 to 50 ft. of vinyl for a whole car wrap.
Not including the roof, I'd say 50ft should be enough, if you don't make any major mistakes and are meticulous about cutting sheets out in a way that minimizes excess and waste. Just as an example, one car-length piece could completely cover the quarter panel, door, rocker panel, and front fender, but only if you plan ahead and leave yourself enough extra (about 10") to account for what you'll need to tuck on each panel.

I personally did use all 75ft, but I was not meticulous lol and I ended up trying and failing to wrap the hood twice, so that was a ton of waste. I also re-did the trunk, and I played with some extra I had to see what it'd look like to wrap a wheel spoke or the center cap or a stripe on my spoiler. Didn't like any of those, but I did end up doing one stripe on each quarter window louver which you can see in the final pictures.

Also, I think leaving the roof gray is a great idea. It wouldn't look out of place in my opinion.
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Looks like a fun DIY. Great job (y)
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Great write up, Dig that color too. I helped a friend wrap his rx7 last year, which pointed myself in the direction of paying to have it done on my GR. Anybody that takes this job on themselves I tip my hat to you.
Takes a lot time and patience to learn the craft and how to pull "glass out" each piece.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top