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Road Atlanta for HPDE

2804 Views 36 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Outtopasture
Got a day in June for my "free" track day. Other than sim driving, Ive never been on this track.

Anyone have experience with an 86 at Road Atlanta?

Already planning on bringing a pad/rotor setup and upgrading the brake fluid.
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I'm debating if I should go RA June. Since I will be doing CMP may next week... figure I should wait until December for RA
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I'm debating if I should go RA June. Since I will be doing CMP may next week... figure I should wait until December for RA
I'm either 1of 1 or 1of 2 twins in the early June event. It was sold out for awhile. hpde1 was full but hpde 2 wasn't

a track day a month keeps the boredom away. you'd just spend the money on a car part
it's about a month before I head out. Getting a parts list together to ship to Atlanta for the night before. Going to be a busy day getting brakes swapped out and oil changed.

I contacted a few owners who drive the way I used to. Asked what they use and why.

Track day choices:
Hawk HP+ front/rear. It's old tech but they were good when I was lapping at the speeds I'll be doing. They are better than oem.

Motul RBF 660 brake fluid. It was my fluid of choice for every track day before. why change?

Cryo blanks for rotors. decent wear even with hp+

if I have time options:
goodridge ss lines
brake ducts
diff & 6mt fluid swap - seems like too much. I don't have any problems with current fluids. And I'm not going to be attempting fast lap.

Route planning is progressing slowly. Settled on 10 hour days. Leaves plenty of time to cycle back through the fun sections a couple times. Between RoadCurvature web site & searching for motorcycle roads, I'll rarely see an interstate.

Oil changes at Road Atlanta should be all I need. Likewise brakes. Hopefully tires make it the full distance. My previous experience with Michelin Supersports was about 10k miles to cordage.
Sounds like you are well prepared. Since you have good experiences with the HP brakes then don't worry about it because Road Atlanta is very gentle on brakes for our cars. So also you don't need brake ducts. There are many professional independent shops around Road Atlanta where you can get any work done that you want and need. Enjoy!
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brake ducts are more for the trip out and back. HPS for daily. They get warm and don't cool off fast. Ducts should help with that. Several of the roads I've plotted rival the "Dragon" but less traffic

HP+ like to be warm before working well... >400 degrees F upto 800 +. Below that, they tend to be abrasive on the rotors.
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Ordered Hawk hps pads for front & rear along with motul rbf600.

Changed the original oil at 2184 miles. completely dark and a bit gritty. sending a sample to blackstone. added valvoline 0w20 back in with a subie oil filter (same as 2018 wrx).

Car is on the rack. trying to figure out a brake duct solution without cutting a bunch of stuff. The faux ducts are annoying.

yanked out all the intake plumbing. then put it all back. not a good enough engineer to figure a better solution.

michelin ps4 still look new. just running them as is.
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I finally caved to internet lore. Hawk HP+ pads, cryo blanks, & motul rbf 600 are waiting for me at Road Atlanta. Getting an order for oil change supplies too.

I waited too long to get diff fluid from amazon. Local Subaru shops don't stock the Toyota diff fluid (they send a runner to get it). The Subaru parts guide specifies Subaru high performance gear oil 75w90, but they couldn't say whether it voids the warranty or not. Toyota fluid is $114/liter. If you can adequately display the "you gotta be kidding ", the parts person cuts you a deal. It's still 140$. Subaru was $75/quart. Toyota was $65/liter (after discount).

I changed the engine oil 500 miles ago. I'm getting oil change required warnings. Checking the dipstick, it's not clear anymore. But it's not dark. Guess I'll be doing that this weekend.

While I'm doing the brakes and diff, I'm pulling the bottom tray off to check routing for brake ducts. The 86cup pictures showed a couple of options.
Subaru HPGO was what I put in both my diff and trans. I dumped the diff for amsoil manual gear oil recently, but the trans is still running subaru stuff, they are really good. I'm about 6 track days in with these gear oil, and it only recently getting a bit notchy on shifts.
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Finding the gaskets has been the hardest part. Parts departments here aren't stocking yet because 30k miles isn't common yet.

The Subaru parts ppl said I was the second person this week to ask about a diff fluid change. Apparently the pictures posted of the metal on the drain plug has had an impact. :)
Finding the gaskets has been the hardest part. Parts departments here aren't stocking yet because 30k miles isn't common yet.

The Subaru parts ppl said I was the second person this week to ask about a diff fluid change. Apparently the pictures posted of the metal on the drain plug has had an impact. :)
I reused the damn crush washer 😅... I haven't found leak yet. So 🤞.

Cus they are hard to find.
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I finally caved to internet lore. Hawk HP+ pads, cryo blanks, & motul rbf 600 are waiting for me at Road Atlanta. Getting an order for oil change supplies too.

I waited too long to get diff fluid from amazon. Local Subaru shops don't stock the Toyota diff fluid (they send a runner to get it). The Subaru parts guide specifies Subaru high performance gear oil 75w90, but they couldn't say whether it voids the warranty or not. Toyota fluid is $114/liter. If you can adequately display the "you gotta be kidding ", the parts person cuts you a deal. It's still 140$. Subaru was $75/quart. Toyota was $65/liter (after discount).

I changed the engine oil 500 miles ago. I'm getting oil change required warnings. Checking the dipstick, it's not clear anymore. But it's not dark. Guess I'll be doing that this weekend.

While I'm doing the brakes and diff, I'm pulling the bottom tray off to check routing for brake ducts. The 86cup pictures showed a couple of options.
Safe travels. Have a blast! Lots of shops will have diff fluid. at atlanta motorsports park: Welcome to DiscoveryParts
3
While changing the brake pads, I pulled off the plastic wheel well. Then took apart the front duct.

The front duct unit is
Subaru # 57746CC010 LH
... RH

Plan:
Tape up the holes on the outside front of the fender liner (below marker light)
Cut a hole in duct unit (slats) next to the holes just taped up.
Cut a matching hole in the fender liner
Thread in brake duct hose
Zip tie or radiator clamp the hose to the lower control arm, aimed at the hub or caliper
Remove the front trim piece from the bumper skin.
Tape up any holes not needed.

Plan B (more invasive)
Remove the blocking plates from lower front grill
Remove washer fluid container
Route brake duct from front grille to hub

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Hmm. Road Atlanta is pretty easy on the brakes for our cars. There are three large braking events at turn one, turn seven and turn 10A. So you don't feel in a hurry to do any cooling projects if you feel you don't have it well sorted. Buy a $20 infrared pyrometer from Harbor Freight and record your measurements. What about the Porsche GT3 ducts? That person on YouTube posted pretty impressive results. They are about $20 each I think. I looked at break hose routing and concluded that capturing the air at the outside edges of the radiator and then routing it through the plastic floor pan and then along the lower control arm looks like a good route so there would be no interference with the tire. It's a bummer we don't have pictures of the 86 cup cars brake hose routing.
While changing the brake pads, I pulled off the plastic wheel well. Then took apart the front duct.

The front duct unit is
Subaru # 57746CC010 LH
... RH

Plan:
Tape up the holes on the outside front of the fender liner (below marker light)
Cut a hole in duct unit (slats) next to the holes just taped up.
Cut a matching hole in the fender liner
Thread in brake duct hose
Zip tie or radiator clamp the hose to the lower control arm, aimed at the hub or caliper
Remove the front trim piece from the bumper skin.
Tape up any holes not needed.

Plan B (more invasive)
Remove the blocking plates from lower front grill
Remove washer fluid container
Route brake duct from front grille to hub
Gutter downspout transition PVC pipes work well. They go from rectangular to Circular. And you probably know but as a reminder to aim the air at the Hub area and not the rotor face. I looked at my car and I like your idea of utilizing those ducts that are already existing. Drink some coffee and git'er done
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Time management has never been a strong point. I buttoned it all back together, with xtra parts. hmm.

Threw brake parts in the trunk and collected all the tools to do it later.

Test fit the no muffler track pipe and did a sound check. At the track or around town, perfect. Long road trip, not so much.

I have a better brake setup waiting at Road Atlanta.

435 miles later, the stock pads in a heavily loaded car requires getting used to. 80 miles of fun roads and one near miss for excessive speed (never be the lead car), worth it.
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Day 2. another 430 miles. way more time at speed and on twisties. Car continues to impress.
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Day 3. 503 miles. Off-road experience successful. 9.5 hours of seat time. I'm approaching my limit.

Tomorrow is similar time. we'll see.
Day 3. 503 miles. Off-road experience successful. 9.5 hours of seat time. I'm approaching my limit.

Tomorrow is similar time. we'll see.
Since you are road tripping. Have you considered driving Atlanta Motorsports Park SCCA track night there on June 7th. Barber Motorsports Park 6/10-11 JZilla
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