Yes - dealer can disable. Or you can unplug it (videos on youtube, takes a minute)What is the general feeling about this? Is there an option at the dealership (with laptop to access options) that allows for this to be potentially disabled? Is it separately fused?
Thank you. Very helpful.Yes - dealer can disable. Or you can unplug it (videos on youtube, takes a minute)
My problem is that I can't hear the engine revs without it. Not changing exhaust for a while, so this is a pretty big issueI'm going to unbolt mine so I can chuck it back at Toyota
haha!
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Is this only on automatics? I don't hear it on my manual limited.What is the general feeling about this? Is there an option at the dealership (with laptop to access options) that allows for this to be potentially disabled? Is it separately fused?
I think that's over simplifying it. There's good fake engine noise and bad and from the videos I've seen and from what the journalists are saying, the GR86 is the latter. What's worse is this should be a car that doesn't need it as it has no turbo to muffle the intake sound. So it's as though Toyota have basically concedes that this engine cannot sound good on it's own which means if you don't like the fake sound then you're just left with a bad sounding engine. The only upside is you can get some uels and make it sound like an old school Subaru but only if that's to your tastes of course.Almost every modern car has a manufactured sound coming into the vehicle. It’s really not that big of a deal…simply disconnect the module if it’s not your cup of tea.
I’ll probably leave alone when the car is stock and then disconnect it when the car gets an intake, header and exhaust
I've never owned a car with a boxer engine, so I'm not clear on the reasoning for UEH. Why not equal length headers? Sorry, just new to this engine type and pondering the probable modifications.I think that's over simplifying it. There's good fake engine noise and bad and from the videos I've seen and from what the journalists are saying, the GR86 is the latter. What's worse is this should be a car that doesn't need it as it has no turbo to muffle the intake sound. So it's as though Toyota have basically concedes that this engine cannot sound good on it's own which means if you don't like the fake sound then you're just left with a bad sounding engine. The only upside is you can get some uels and make it sound like an old school Subaru but only if that's to your tastes of course.
This is not a boxer specific thing really. UEL tend to make more low\mid power and EL tend to make more peak power up top. The 1st gen cars suffered from a huge torque dip in the middle of the rev range. UEL helps eliminate it, but by itself costs some power in other places. Tuning can usually fill in the spots where power falls though. The 2nd gen cars actually have wider primary tubes and are not exactly even length but also not different enough to classify them as true UEL. That is how subaru made the TQ dip significantly better on the new cars. IMO the header isnt worth changing on these cars until you have some forced induction. But plenty of people just want to be loud, so there is that.I've never owned a car with a boxer engine, so I'm not clear on the reasoning for UEH. Why not equal length headers? Sorry, just new to this engine type and pondering the probable modifications.
The UEL headers will give you that pure boxer 'rumble' that it's (somewhat) famous for. It's kind of an offbeat, burbly, rumbly sound. I really like it, but haven't decided if I'm willing to go through the fuss of changing the headers, possible related CEL issues, and needing a tune to address the possible CEL issues. With the equal length headers it sounds more like a typical four cylinder. From everything I've seen so far, the stock EL headers flow better than the Gen1 cars, so not sure it's even worth it to go aftermarket EL, which I certainly won't do. If I decide to go through the trouble, I want some rumble with my trouble thank you very much.I've never owned a car with a boxer engine, so I'm not clear on the reasoning for UEH. Why not equal length headers? Sorry, just new to this engine type and pondering the probable modifications.
Appreciate the explanation. I do like regular 4 banger sounds better.The UEL headers will give you that pure boxer 'rumble' that it's (somewhat) famous for. It's kind of an offbeat, burbly, rumbly sound. I really like it, but haven't decided if I'm willing to go through the fuss of changing the headers, possible related CEL issues, and needing a tune to address the possible CEL issues. With the equal length headers it sounds more like a typical four cylinder. From everything I've seen so far, the stock EL headers flow better than the Gen1 cars, so not sure it's even worth it to go aftermarket EL, which I certainly won't do. If I decide to go through the trouble, I want some rumble with my trouble thank you very much.
Thank you too for that insight and explanation.This is not a boxer specific thing really. UEL tend to make more low\mid power and EL tend to make more peak power up top. The 1st gen cars suffered from a huge torque dip in the middle of the rev range. UEL helps eliminate it, but by itself costs some power in other places. Tuning can usually fill in the spots where power falls though. The 2nd gen cars actually have wider primary tubes and are not exactly even length but also not different enough to classify them as true UEL. That is how subaru made the TQ dip significantly better on the new cars. IMO the header isnt worth changing on these cars until you have some forced induction. But plenty of people just want to be loud, so there is that.
I’m losing my hearing anyway, so I’ll probably unplug the fake noise maker. I have hearing aids (thanks Submarine Force!) and stuff sounds pretty artifact is. I don’t need to double down on shitty noises.Driving the car, it’s honestly very quiet. Without the generator, would probably struggle to hear anything