Even I enjoyed that series..!! There are a lot of factors that arent covered, but educational and entertaining (to us nerds) none the less. Lol
Even I enjoyed that series..!! There are a lot of factors that arent covered, but educational and entertaining (to us nerds) none the less. LolI'd recommend anyone curious about this to go watch the Project Farm oil series on Youtube. All modern synthetics basically protect to similar levels all things being equal as long as they meet the certs, but that does not mean there aren't superior oils, especially when you factor in cost. His testing isn't the end all be all, and he doesn't test all oils, but his testing did match up fairly well with UOAs/results available on BITOG and elsewhere so...
One reason for this is the GPF in European models. If you use oil that produces big amounts of ash when burned the particulate filter gets clogged up and has to be replaced.Yep the manuals for the twins recommend different things for each region
Yea each region has their own regulations, but I do find it funny how Toyota & Subaru list different selections of oil weights even while they are in the same region. In Japan, Toyota recommends 0w20, Subaru just lists weights with no recommendation.One reason for this is the GPF in European models. If you use oil that produces big amounts of ash when burned the particulate filter gets clogged up and has to be replaced.
So you should definitely not simply use US spec oil in EU models. At least as long as you don't do a GPF delete ;-)
BRZTranslation:
"Recommendation:
Toyota genuine motor oil SP 0W-20 API SP/RC, ILSAC GF-6A, SAE 0W-20
Fits:
Toyota Genuine Motor Oil SP 5W-30 API SP/RC, ILSAC GF-6A, SAE 5W-30"
Translation of lower paragraph:
" - Specified engine oil
API standard SP/RC or ILSAC standard use oil that matches. 0W-20 has excellent fuel efficiency, do your best to use 0W-20. If difficult to find, 5W-30 can be used. It should be noted that ILSAC regulations ILSAC for qualified oil cans CERTIFICATION (Irsac certification) mark is attached."
1: The amount of engine oil is a guideline when replacing. To check the oil level, place the car on a level surface, stop the engine before starting the engine or after warming up the engine, and wait at least 5 minutes before checking the oil level with a level gauge. To check the oil level, look at both sides of the level gauge and check the lower side of the oil level.
2: ECO 0W-20 is the most fuel-saving oil among the designated brands in the table above.
You could consider the "equivalent euro" specification ACEA C6 in some viscosity like 0W-20. There isn't much of a difference between them and many oils are certified/compliant with both ACEA C6 and API SP/ILSAC GF-6A.Buying oil for new japanese and american cars in Europe is a nightmare. I was able to find only one decently priced 5w-20 oil from Petro Canada that meets the ILSAC GF6.
This is my line of thinking and why I use Idemitsu, gives me a bit extra piece of mind. Could be wrong though. Kinda curious about what TB has to say about itWould Idemitsu 5W-30 oil be considered a better choice for these engines since it's the OEM replacement oil for all Subarus?
Not quite. 5W-30 Conventional is mentioned in the US manual only as a top-off in between changes. Conventional is not mentioned anywhere else in any manual I could find.Forgive me if this has been addressed in an earlier post but for the FA24D am I correct in understanding that if a 5W-30 oil is used Subaru's engineers prefer a conventional rather than synthetic? Or in practice is there no issue with running a 5W-30 synthetic?
If it meets the spec you are looking for, Mobil1 would work well.I've long used Mobil1 synthetic oil in my Toyotas. It is very easy to source Mobil1 oil almost anywhere on short notice.
Nothing makes Idemitsu special compared to a similar oil with the same specification/approvals. There are oils out there with more manufacturer approvals in similar grades.Would Idemitsu 5W-30 oil be considered a better choice for these engines since it's the OEM replacement oil for all Subarus?
For those of you who do your own oil changes, what oil brand have you been using?
Deciding myself between Valvoline, Pennzoil, or Mobil1. It probably doesn't matter, but just curious what others favor for this platform.
0-981 miles | 0w20 | OEM |
981-5901 miles | 5w20 | Pennsoil Ultra Platinum |
5901-11,200 miles | 5w30 | Pennzoil Ultra Platinum |
11,200-16,408 miles | 5w20 | Castrol Edge |
16,408-current(~18,000) miles | 5w30 | Pennzoil Ultra Platinum |
Pennzoil is really great stuff. IIRC you can get 6 quarts of it for right about $30 at walmart, which is like half what I pay for Motul lol. I just like Motul because RACECAR
0-981 miles 0w20 OEM 981-5901 miles 5w20 Pennsoil Ultra Platinum 5901-11,200 miles 5w30 Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 11,200-16,408 miles 5w20 Castrol Edge 16,408-current(~18,000) miles 5w30 Pennzoil Ultra Platinum
Wanted to give Castrol Edge a try, had over a quart of consumption during the interval. Have had zero consumption with the Pennzoil during all it's intervals.
Curious your opinion on Motul 8100. I don't really have an affinity to any particular brand, at the same time motul is a household name for subaru guysEdge lasts extremely long without degrading, but does tend to vanish from the dipstick on turbo vehicles and those that rev high. The regular Pennzoil platinum is known for similar. If Pennzoil is your brand of choice the ultra platinum is the way to go for sure.
I have nothing against it. But I certainly don't understand the fascination with motul. Not a customer of my company but from other UOAs and SDS and product specs I see it isnt anything super human. I have said before, you really have to go out of your way to find BAD oil these day. Most of it comes down to meeting the specs and brand preferences. Some are better than others, but in the scheme of things its minimal if the certifications match.Curious your opinion on Motul 8100. I don't really have an affinity to any particular brand, at the same time motul is a household name for subaru guys