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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am picking up my new limited manual brz in magnetite grey this weekend and I have been looking at wider wheels and tires as my first mod. I have a 2008 Boxster rs60 spyder that drive like it is on rails, it has 235 front, 265 rear, and is about 200-300 lbs heavier, I would like to get closer to that feeling of grip.

I was wondering how much wider should I go, I am mostly between 245 and 255, but would 235 be enough? Also any recommendations for rims would be appreciated, I’m looking for lightweight and simple design that is easy to clean and goes well with the magnetite grey. I have never bought aftermarket rims and tires before so any advice is appreciated.
 

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I'm curious why you're going from a 987.1 Boxster RS60 Spyder to the BRZ. They're worth around the same amount in the US, the 987.1 is close to being done depreciating, and at least from my experience my old 987.1 Boxster was very reliable. Factoring in depreciation, I'd expect the 987.1 to be the cheaper car to own, and it should be faster and grippier too. I suppose the potential for bore scoring could be a risk on 3.4L M97 engines though.

235/35R18 could be a reasonable upgrade for a BRZ. Getting 255 width tires to fit and clear the suspension and body may be problematic, and may be too much of a jump from what the car was designed for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The Boxster is my dream car lol, no worries about bore score or ims. It has actually appreciated since I bought it, and I would have kept it if I could afford a second car. There are a few reasons I’m selling it, primarily though it is to free up funds to buy an engagement ring for my girlfriend, it’s also pretty expensive to maintain and it’s getting old so parts are getting hard to find. I also can’t make any mods since it would kill the value and I miss having modern amenities like apple CarPlay and blue tooth. It is currently my only car so I feel a little guilty packing on the miles, especially seeing the depreciation due to mileage. And while it has been reliable, much faster and probably handles better, it is not cheaper to own.

I can keep up with Ferrari f430’s and bmw m2’s, so that is my goal with the brz, first the grip, then the power
 

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The Boxster is my dream car lol, no worries about bore score or ims. It has actually appreciated since I bought it, and I would have kept it if I could afford a second car. There are a few reasons I’m selling it, primarily though it is to free up funds to buy an engagement ring for my girlfriend, it’s also pretty expensive to maintain and it’s getting old so parts are getting hard to find. I also can’t make any mods since it would kill the value and I miss having modern amenities like apple CarPlay and blue tooth. It is currently my only car so I feel a little guilty packing on the miles, especially seeing the depreciation due to mileage. And while it has been reliable, much faster and probably handles better, it is not cheaper to own.

I can keep up with Ferrari f430’s and bmw m2’s, so that is my goal with the brz, first the grip, then the power
Ah, if it’s your only car and you’re piling on the miles, then just parts costs for wear and tear can add up, even if the car is reliable. I sold my 987.1 Boxster for the same price I bought it (used) after 3 years of fun and $300 of repairs in total. Best fun per dollar I’ve had from any car.
 

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I just checked and the regular Cayman 987 did 0.96g on the skidpad as tested by C/D. The new BRZ does 0.99g on stock tires. For the spyder I found 1.04g, but from another source so not directly comparable. I think you don't need to go that much wider on the BRZ to match your current car.
 

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I just checked and the regular Cayman 987 did 0.96g on the skidpad as tested by C/D. The new BRZ does 0.99g on stock tires. For the spyder I found 1.04g, but from another source so not directly comparable. I think you don't need to go that much wider on the BRZ to match your current car.
Keep in mind the 987.1 was introduced in 2004 as a model year 2005 car, and the C&D tests were done using tires from that era. I was able to sustain around 1.06 to 1.07 G in autocross on modern Pilot Sport 4S tires on my old 987.1 Boxster (with 235 fronts and 265 rears).

With that said, PS4S should be grippier than PS4 that the BRZ comes with. Just switching from PS4 to PS4S would probably net you an additional 0.03 Gs of peak grip, and not be too far off a Porsche 987.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Keep in mind the 987.1 was introduced in 2004 as a model year 2005 car, and the C&D tests were done using tires from that era. I was able to sustain around 1.06 to 1.07 G in autocross on modern Pilot Sport 4S tires on my old 987.1 Boxster (with 235 fronts and 265 rears).

With that said, PS4S should be grippier than PS4 that the BRZ comes with. Just switching from PS4 to PS4S would probably net you an additional 0.03 Gs of peak grip, and not be too far off a Porsche 987.
thanks for the replies, I was concerned since I had test drive a 2020 brz ts and I accidentally drifted it on the first turn on the test drive. I went right at a light @30mph and the back end stepped out, scared me and the sales guy lol. I could take the turn at 35-40 in the porsche with no complaints so I assumed I would need at least 235 or 245 ps4s or Firestone indy 500’s. I’m a pretty aggressive driver lol, I have to keep my commute fun but within the speed limit/law!
 

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I am picking up my new limited manual brz in magnetite grey this weekend and I have been looking at wider wheels and tires as my first mod. I have a 2008 Boxster rs60 spyder that drive like it is on rails, it has 235 front, 265 rear, and is about 200-300 lbs heavier, I would like to get closer to that feeling of grip.

I was wondering how much wider should I go, I am mostly between 245 and 255, but would 235 be enough? Also any recommendations for rims would be appreciated, I’m looking for lightweight and simple design that is easy to clean and goes well with the magnetite grey. I have never bought aftermarket rims and tires before so any advice is appreciated.
thanks for the replies, I was concerned since I had test drive a 2020 brz ts and I accidentally drifted it on the first turn on the test drive. I went right at a light @30mph and the back end stepped out, scared me and the sales guy lol. I could take the turn at 35-40 in the porsche with no complaints so I assumed I would need at least 235 or 245 ps4s or Firestone indy 500’s. I’m a pretty aggressive driver lol, I have to keep my commute fun but within the speed limit/law!
That’s some pretty aggressive driving.

For the platform, 17x8s with 225s and 17x9s with 245s are really the go-to standard. As for wheel recommendations, everyone likes to go with Enkei RPF1s because they’re light and cheap (but they’re not the strongest) and WedsSport TC105Ns are a solid upgrade. If money is no object, TWS T66-F really can’t be beat.
 

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I am picking up my new limited manual brz in magnetite grey this weekend and I have been looking at wider wheels and tires as my first mod. I have a 2008 Boxster rs60 spyder that drive like it is on rails, it has 235 front, 265 rear, and is about 200-300 lbs heavier, I would like to get closer to that feeling of grip.

I was wondering how much wider should I go, I am mostly between 245 and 255, but would 235 be enough? Also any recommendations for rims would be appreciated, I’m looking for lightweight and simple design that is easy to clean and goes well with the magnetite grey. I have never bought aftermarket rims and tires before so any advice is appreciated.
I strongly suggest not to go wider than 8.5 and stick to 245/40.

If you google “Titan 7 brz” the white brz that shows up was mine and I did a square 9.5 setup on 255/35. I wouldn’t do it again.
Best one I’ve driven in for a track day was on enkei rs05rr 18x8.5 on 245/40. That is the look I’ll go fo, for the new brz. Looks aside, when I drove the setup, that’s what perfect felt for me. It was just enough to firmly grip the car, and also playful enough to still send it sideways a tad if you were wanting to.
 

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Dunno if I'm off topic a bit talking GR86. So I'll soon pickup a white stick premium in the first allocation, and I'm asking the dealer to deliver it with the stock base wheel and tire set. Likely I'll drive of with 8 tire/wheel sets.
My thoughts here are that the Base version having slightly greater aspect ratio will be more reasonable for driving highways and roads with unavoidable chuck-holes and poor surfaces.
Besides that I don't love the black rims overall look on the white GR.
Am I wasting effort and $ on going base, should I get both sets, go only with the premium ones?
Just curious what others might say about these things.
Cheer!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Dunno if I'm off topic a bit talking GR86. So I'll soon pickup a white stick premium in the first allocation, and I'm asking the dealer to deliver it with the stock base wheel and tire set. Likely I'll drive of with 8 tire/wheel sets.
My thoughts here are that the Base version having slightly greater aspect ratio will be more reasonable for driving highways and roads with unavoidable chuck-holes and poor surfaces.
Besides that I don't love the black rims overall look on the white GR.
Am I wasting effort and $ on going base, should I get both sets, go only with the premium ones?
Just curious what others might say about these things.
Cheer!
wheels can easily be changed, the premium also has a better sound system, interior, tires, and other items. If you are already planning on swapping the wheels and tires then it depends if you want the other stuff.

i think both trims have the same gearing too, only change that affects gearing is if it is a manual or auto
 

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Dunno if I'm off topic a bit talking GR86. So I'll soon pickup a white stick premium in the first allocation, and I'm asking the dealer to deliver it with the stock base wheel and tire set. Likely I'll drive of with 8 tire/wheel sets.
My thoughts here are that the Base version having slightly greater aspect ratio will be more reasonable for driving highways and roads with unavoidable chuck-holes and poor surfaces.
Besides that I don't love the black rims overall look on the white GR.
Am I wasting effort and $ on going base, should I get both sets, go only with the premium ones?
Just curious what others might say about these things.
Cheer!
I’ve always been curious if they’d actually let you do that. Did they tell you they would? You’re paying for the extra wheels and tires that come on the base? Or how does that work?

Yeah, the 17s should ride better but I don’t think the 18s would be that much worse. Then again, maybe I’m biased; I’m not too worried about comfort or a harsh ride and I’ve only ever driven on the 18s. That said, I’d go 17s for both daily/track use but I’m not sure I’d pay extra for base wheels/tires; I’d definitely just go aftermarket in that case, unless the price was right.
 

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Dunno if I'm off topic a bit talking GR86. So I'll soon pickup a white stick premium in the first allocation, and I'm asking the dealer to deliver it with the stock base wheel and tire set. Likely I'll drive of with 8 tire/wheel sets.
My thoughts here are that the Base version having slightly greater aspect ratio will be more reasonable for driving highways and roads with unavoidable chuck-holes and poor surfaces.
Besides that I don't love the black rims overall look on the white GR.
Am I wasting effort and $ on going base, should I get both sets, go only with the premium ones?
Just curious what others might say about these things.
Cheer!
I went with the base model because of more tire options (specifically Michelin CrossClimate 2) and better road hazard tolerance for the 17” wheels, and also not wanting an internet connected car (Starlink) for security and privacy reasons. Cheaper too as a bonus. The seats and seat heating of the upgraded model are nice, and I’d have paid for those if I could get the car without Starlink.
 

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Thanks Lost,
My dealer had said a few months ago that he could get my Premium in with Base the wheels for me but I think he ran into trouble with that. I'll post if I get an update.
My fuss is that on I-5 on Seattle as one passes the old Rainer Brewery building there is a mile or two stretch of the worst possible expansion joints that terribly jar suspensions and I cannot avoid that daily route. It ain't much difference but the greater aspect ratio wheel/tire will do better for me.
Re wizze's input, I actually am overall inclined to the Base over the Premium but the Premium is the more appealing and costs just a bit more so I go with it.
That said, this Starlink thing is something I had not considered, can't a person disable the Starlink?
 

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Thanks Lost,
My dealer had said a few months ago that he could get my Premium in with Base the wheels for me but I think he ran into trouble with that. I'll post if I get an update.
My fuss is that on I-5 on Seattle as one passes the old Rainer Brewery building there is a mile or two stretch of the worst possible expansion joints that terribly jar suspensions and I cannot avoid that daily route. It ain't much difference but the greater aspect ratio wheel/tire will do better for me.
Re wizze's input, I actually am overall inclined to the Base over the Premium but the Premium is the more appealing and costs just a bit more so I go with it.
That said, this Starlink thing is something I had not considered, can't a person disable the Starlink?
It’s probably possible to disable Starlink by removing or unplugging the module and coding something to indicate the module is no longer present. I haven’t seen any information on how to do this on recent Subarus though, and at least initially I’ll lease the car (they are offering great 2 year lease deals in Canada) so I don’t want to tear apart and modify the car. Going with the base model was the easiest way to avoid Starlink.

I work in embedded systems security, and have been unimpressed with the security of telematics systems I have examined. Furthermore, I don’t like the principle of the car always being connected to a cellular network, and my location and vehicle usage always being tracked by the car and reported to the cloud. I can easily choose to not carry a phone with me, but it’s harder to choose not to be tracked by a car that has telematics systems.
 

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It’s probably possible to disable Starlink by removing or unplugging the module and coding something to indicate the module is no longer present. I haven’t seen any information on how to do this on recent Subarus though, and at least initially I’ll lease the car (they are offering great 2 year lease deals in Canada) so I don’t want to tear apart and modify the car. Going with the base model was the easiest way to avoid Starlink.

I work in embedded systems security, and have been unimpressed with the security of telematics systems I have examined. Furthermore, I don’t like the principle of the car always being connected to a cellular network, and my location and vehicle usage always being tracked by the car and reported to the cloud. I can easily choose to not carry a phone with me, but it’s harder to choose not to be tracked by a car that has telematics systems.
Is it confirmed the base models do not have the Starlink module? I wasn't even aware of what Starlink did (privacy/security wise) before ordering my base.
 
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