TL;DR:
Our story starts out as any other would: pure unbridled hope in ones eyes of installing shiny new things on our beloved BRZ/86. Come to find a 1 day job would end up taking 7 days.
I bought new Brembos from the performance package for the previous MY (2017 BRZ PP) as well as steel brake lines accompanying my new brembos.
There was already a wonderful guide posted by this youtuber here on how to do just this (minus the steel brake lines):
okay awesome! I got all my tools in order and started the job.
1st mistake I made: I did not realize I needed a flare wrench and stripped the top of the flare nut when attempting to install the steel brake lines. Totally my fault as taking a mere peak on the internet, shows nearly every person specifying that you need a flare wrench like this:
![Image]()
For you noobs out there like me, let me be 1,000% clear: a regular 10mm wrench or adjustable wrench will. not. work. If you dont have a 10mm wrench that looks just like the above^, or a fucking vice grip wrench as such:
![Image]()
It wont work.
After finally receiving my flare wrench, I continue on following the video for replacing the brake dust shields in the rear.
My next mistake:
-not removing the ABS sensor before pulling the wheel hub off the axle, which bent the little cover as seen here (that top hole is where the ABS sensor sits with a 10mm bolt that holds it in place):
![Image]()
![Image]()
but all in all that wasn't that big of a deal. Bending it back a little and I got it fairly straight again.
Now for the bread and butter of why this took so long.
I stripped the flare nut threads by not having it perfectly straight with the steel brake line:
![Image]()
Stripped one is on the left, in the middle of the threads. If you look closely, you can see its in a slight ^ shape. This caused a whole lot of problems.
closer look at the stripped nut:
![Image]()
First off, the dealership doesn't sell just the nut, I've learned. You have to buy the entire ABS brake pipe assembly because they come pre-set onto the steel lines that are attached to the chassis. The part number for this is 26514CC010, which costs $177.00:
![Image]()
Okay, so that's out of the question. Lets go aftermarket. We are looking for a M10x1.0 inverted flare nut. Found them on amazon. But guess what?
IT DOESN'T FIT OVER OUR STEEL BRAKE LINES.
I start taking some measurements with my caliper. The OEM 2022 MY nut that I have (IE, the one that I stripped) has an ID of ~5.19mm:
![Image]()
Where-as all the ID's for M10 aftermarket ones are... (drumroll):
![Image]()
![Image]()
#BLESSED. I REALIZE I HAD AN M10 NUT FROM A 2017 BRZ BREMBO PACKAGE. SAVED AT LAST!
Wanna guess what size the ID was?
...4.88mm
![Image]()
Lovely. I was at my whits end. Apparently Subaru in all their wisdom increased the diameter of the steel brake lines just enough that it requires a special m10 nut
that the previous MY BRZ flare nuts do not fit over.
What's funny is I bought by accident 3/8"-24 thread standard fittings. I curiously measured the ID of those:
![Image]()
lmao. Lovely. American standard freedom units have an ID that fits over the line. They can't learn how to make a mustang turn without crashing, but they can make a nut that fits over Japanese brake lines.
I ended up having to buy a "Metric Brake Line Adapter for 3/16" Tube, (Female) Inverted Flare, 3/8-24 to (Male) ISO/Bubble Flare, Metric 10mm x 1" and used the 3/8-24 flare nut along with it:
![Image]()
Member those Babushka dolls? Take that concept and apply it to fittingception:
![Image]()
"Yo dawg, i heard you like flare nuts. So I got a flare nut for your flare nut"
Oh and we didn't even talk about how to flare brake lines, so here's more shit you have to buy:
Joking aside, this was all extremely frustrating, not to mention rage-inducing. We can all laugh about it now. However, if this happens to you, the during part will be painful.
In conclusion: be stupid gentle with the OEM flare nuts as they are a different diameter than the previous model, and aftermarket doesn't have a direct carry-over.
- Make sure to remove the ABS sensor before pulling the wheel hub. Otherwise you will bend the metal seal cover
- *Get a 10mm flare wrench, and for the love of all that is good, be super careful with the flare nut. If you strip it, you are F****d. *
Our story starts out as any other would: pure unbridled hope in ones eyes of installing shiny new things on our beloved BRZ/86. Come to find a 1 day job would end up taking 7 days.
I bought new Brembos from the performance package for the previous MY (2017 BRZ PP) as well as steel brake lines accompanying my new brembos.
There was already a wonderful guide posted by this youtuber here on how to do just this (minus the steel brake lines):
okay awesome! I got all my tools in order and started the job.
1st mistake I made: I did not realize I needed a flare wrench and stripped the top of the flare nut when attempting to install the steel brake lines. Totally my fault as taking a mere peak on the internet, shows nearly every person specifying that you need a flare wrench like this:
For you noobs out there like me, let me be 1,000% clear: a regular 10mm wrench or adjustable wrench will. not. work. If you dont have a 10mm wrench that looks just like the above^, or a fucking vice grip wrench as such:
It wont work.
After finally receiving my flare wrench, I continue on following the video for replacing the brake dust shields in the rear.
My next mistake:
-not removing the ABS sensor before pulling the wheel hub off the axle, which bent the little cover as seen here (that top hole is where the ABS sensor sits with a 10mm bolt that holds it in place):
but all in all that wasn't that big of a deal. Bending it back a little and I got it fairly straight again.
Now for the bread and butter of why this took so long.
I stripped the flare nut threads by not having it perfectly straight with the steel brake line:
Stripped one is on the left, in the middle of the threads. If you look closely, you can see its in a slight ^ shape. This caused a whole lot of problems.
closer look at the stripped nut:
First off, the dealership doesn't sell just the nut, I've learned. You have to buy the entire ABS brake pipe assembly because they come pre-set onto the steel lines that are attached to the chassis. The part number for this is 26514CC010, which costs $177.00:
Okay, so that's out of the question. Lets go aftermarket. We are looking for a M10x1.0 inverted flare nut. Found them on amazon. But guess what?
IT DOESN'T FIT OVER OUR STEEL BRAKE LINES.
I start taking some measurements with my caliper. The OEM 2022 MY nut that I have (IE, the one that I stripped) has an ID of ~5.19mm:
Where-as all the ID's for M10 aftermarket ones are... (drumroll):
#BLESSED. I REALIZE I HAD AN M10 NUT FROM A 2017 BRZ BREMBO PACKAGE. SAVED AT LAST!
Wanna guess what size the ID was?
...4.88mm
Lovely. I was at my whits end. Apparently Subaru in all their wisdom increased the diameter of the steel brake lines just enough that it requires a special m10 nut
that the previous MY BRZ flare nuts do not fit over.
What's funny is I bought by accident 3/8"-24 thread standard fittings. I curiously measured the ID of those:
lmao. Lovely. American standard freedom units have an ID that fits over the line. They can't learn how to make a mustang turn without crashing, but they can make a nut that fits over Japanese brake lines.
I ended up having to buy a "Metric Brake Line Adapter for 3/16" Tube, (Female) Inverted Flare, 3/8-24 to (Male) ISO/Bubble Flare, Metric 10mm x 1" and used the 3/8-24 flare nut along with it:
Member those Babushka dolls? Take that concept and apply it to fittingception:
"Yo dawg, i heard you like flare nuts. So I got a flare nut for your flare nut"
Oh and we didn't even talk about how to flare brake lines, so here's more shit you have to buy:
Joking aside, this was all extremely frustrating, not to mention rage-inducing. We can all laugh about it now. However, if this happens to you, the during part will be painful.
In conclusion: be stupid gentle with the OEM flare nuts as they are a different diameter than the previous model, and aftermarket doesn't have a direct carry-over.
