Going back to the brakes. Do not cheap out on the rotors or they will crack. If you are really going to be pushing your car, go straight to RBF660 or other similar brake fluid as the RBF600 may be marginal with the heat we will produce in our OE brakes. "MY" experience with Carbotech has not been the best, but everyone has different experiences. I've used Hawk race pads and Cobalt race pads without issue. Aside from that, if you continue using Carbotech, there are more aggressive compounds that you can use which will stand up better to the heat and abuse. Aside from brake temperature, are you experiencing any deficiencies with the braking system?
HPDE CMP @ NASA-SE
Had a blast at CMP this weekend @ the HPDE1 level. Highly recommended to get in the HPDE1, if you have never been to a specific track from the NASA org. They would pair you up with an experienced instructor for all the sessions, you can ask to drive solo once you're comfortable with the track.
Best personal time:1:58
Best instructor time (driving at his 8/10, in my car): 1:54
Mods + fluid:
Fortune auto 510 7k front 8k rear.
Continental ecs 225mm.
Torque solution Rear lower control arms(i know they are knock offs of spl, but they were 200 bucks cheaper and served the same function).
Oil cooler.
Motul 600 brake fluid.
Castrol edge performance 5w30.
Perrin master brake cylinder brace.
Carbotech xp12 front.
Carbotech xp10 rear.
Advanced auto special rotors, in another words cheap rotors. (More about this later)
Setup:
Ride height (measure from pavement to the top of the fender arch)
650mm front, 657mm rear. (Noted it was measure in my drive way, so it wasn't 100% horizontal)
Camber: -2.5 degree front -2.0 degree rear.
Toes: slightly toe out front, and slightly toe in rear.
Summary:
Pros:
The car felt extremely balanced with this Setup on ultra summer tires.
Turn in is excellent, the car points when you want it.
Corner exit is extremely well too. Once the car is balanced in mid corner, I could have throttle input to steer the car out of the corner as I unwine the steering wheel.
The brakes held up extremely well, however I think a few components is hampering the brakes performance.
Cons:
The Continental tires was okay on track. But after a few fast laps, the tires's grip started to degrade. T3 and T8 got sketchy when I asked for 100 acceleration from the tires at corner exit, the car was happily to step out. However, it wasn't anything jarring.
The advanced auto special rotors could not help to dissipate heat quickly. After a cool down lap, the front brake pads temp reading was at 470+F, and the rotors' temp reading was at 700+F. I could only imagine how hot they got at big braking zone(T1, T8, T11,T14). Such that, it ultimately translated to my pedal sinking ever so slightly deeper at each deep braking zone. (Brake pads were still able to stop the car). So my speculation was that my fluid was boiling.
Solutions + future updates:
Currently I'm really happy with the handling of the car. I dont think I need anymore upgrades on the suspension componets, until I get some stickier tires in, then we will see if I need thicker sway bars to help with the extra grip.
Thinking to go with some 200tw tires at 235mm/240mm.
For braking, I should try out the dba blanks rotors to see if these rotors can push out the heat faster. Along with some stainless steel brake lines to give a firmer feels of the brake pedal.
However all the mentioned upgrades was just to inspire safety and personal confidence on the car.
The main factor can improve lap time on the current setup is to have more seat time. AKA driver mods. (If im 4 seconds off my instructor 80% lap time, I definitely have a lot to improve on)
Wish this can help y'all to further understand the new twins chassis. Feel free to leave a comment, to start a discussion.
Best.
Best personal time:1:58
Best instructor time (driving at his 8/10, in my car): 1:54
Mods + fluid:
Fortune auto 510 7k front 8k rear.
Continental ecs 225mm.
Torque solution Rear lower control arms(i know they are knock offs of spl, but they were 200 bucks cheaper and served the same function).
Oil cooler.
Motul 600 brake fluid.
Castrol edge performance 5w30.
Perrin master brake cylinder brace.
Carbotech xp12 front.
Carbotech xp10 rear.
Advanced auto special rotors, in another words cheap rotors. (More about this later)
Setup:
Ride height (measure from pavement to the top of the fender arch)
650mm front, 657mm rear. (Noted it was measure in my drive way, so it wasn't 100% horizontal)
Camber: -2.5 degree front -2.0 degree rear.
Toes: slightly toe out front, and slightly toe in rear.
Summary:
Pros:
The car felt extremely balanced with this Setup on ultra summer tires.
Turn in is excellent, the car points when you want it.
Corner exit is extremely well too. Once the car is balanced in mid corner, I could have throttle input to steer the car out of the corner as I unwine the steering wheel.
The brakes held up extremely well, however I think a few components is hampering the brakes performance.
Cons:
The Continental tires was okay on track. But after a few fast laps, the tires's grip started to degrade. T3 and T8 got sketchy when I asked for 100 acceleration from the tires at corner exit, the car was happily to step out. However, it wasn't anything jarring.
The advanced auto special rotors could not help to dissipate heat quickly. After a cool down lap, the front brake pads temp reading was at 470+F, and the rotors' temp reading was at 700+F. I could only imagine how hot they got at big braking zone(T1, T8, T11,T14). Such that, it ultimately translated to my pedal sinking ever so slightly deeper at each deep braking zone. (Brake pads were still able to stop the car). So my speculation was that my fluid was boiling.
Solutions + future updates:
Currently I'm really happy with the handling of the car. I dont think I need anymore upgrades on the suspension componets, until I get some stickier tires in, then we will see if I need thicker sway bars to help with the extra grip.
Thinking to go with some 200tw tires at 235mm/240mm.
For braking, I should try out the dba blanks rotors to see if these rotors can push out the heat faster. Along with some stainless steel brake lines to give a firmer feels of the brake pedal.
However all the mentioned upgrades was just to inspire safety and personal confidence on the car.
The main factor can improve lap time on the current setup is to have more seat time. AKA driver mods. (If im 4 seconds off my instructor 80% lap time, I definitely have a lot to improve on)
Wish this can help y'all to further understand the new twins chassis. Feel free to leave a comment, to start a discussion.
Best.
1 - 2 of 49 Posts
Was the pedal drop sudden and you had to pump it to stop, or did you have a longer pedal but still slowed? Fluid boiling tends to be more sudden and pucker inducing. Pad fade will typically be more gradual. Just trying to help you figure out what the weak point was.
1 - 2 of 49 Posts
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