Glad to hear. Clean install.
Glad to hear. Clean install.@removedonut
Wanted to drop a note and thank you for the detailed writeup! Used your guide to get my Basspro Hub installed. Everything went smooth.
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Yes.I already have the basspro hub from my previous vehice, so my question is, what differences would i have to do in terms of wiring?
Can i still hook everything up as you mentioned in your guide?
I just installed mine yesterday and I noticed this issue as well. Was about to go in today and rip it out and use a regular LOC. maybe I’ll mess with it a little more today and try your method.I have possibly solved the weird amount of bass coming from my sub. I turned off the bass restorer. It was adding in weird boosts of various frequencies. Only time will tell.
Steve
I changed my input to using a LOC and had to drop its sensitivity. I added comments in this thread somewhereI just installed mine yesterday and I noticed this issue as well. Was about to go in today and rip it out and use a regular LOC. maybe I’ll mess with it a little more today and try your method.
Correct.Great write up. One question, you don't need speed wire if you are going the cutting ends off the RCA cables?
My wiring kit showed up today. I opened my amp and noticed it had some 'Speaker Wire Cable to Audio Male RCA Connector Adapters' included. Would you use them, or just chop the ends off an RCA? I don't have speed wire I'd have to pick it up.Correct.
Use Em.My wiring kit showed up today. I opened my amp and noticed it had some 'Speaker Wire Cable to Audio Male RCA Connector Adapters' included. Would you use them, or just chop the ends off an RCA? I don't have speed wire I'd have to pick it up.
Also did you make an amp rack yourself? I have never done it and I am just mounting one amplifier which is about 9 by 7.5 inches.
Yeah use those.My wiring kit showed up today. I opened my amp and noticed it had some 'Speaker Wire Cable to Audio Male RCA Connector Adapters' included. Would you use them, or just chop the ends off an RCA? I don't have speed wire I'd have to pick it up.
Also did you make an amp rack yourself? I have never done it and I am just mounting one amplifier which is about 9 by 7.5 inches.
What’s your gain set to? Some come out of the box set to the maximum which will frequently trip the protect circuit.After a lot of planning and purchasing tools I wired everything up and THE BIG MOMENT, WOOO!!! Nothing... solid protect light.
I check all my wires and signal wires to make sure everything is secure. Still solid protect light. A trip to home depot to buy a multimeter all of my voltages are good on remote and power. I can only think of the amp being at fault so I am getting it replaced (thanks Amazon). Hopefully it will be here tomorrow. I just want to have this project done so I can put my car back together and enjoy the music😅
I can only imagine how many more struggles there would have been if I didn't have this guide as a reference, thanks again. At least with all my struggles I picked up some new skills along the way.
Crossing my fingers that I connect everything to the new amp and we are good.
Ricky
I turned it all the way down to be sure. It was such a disappointment since I was so excited to hear the subwoofer and instead spent a few hours troubleshooting lol.What’s your gain set to? Some come out of the box set to the maximum which will frequently trip the protect circuit.
Accessory circuits in this car don’t turn off until the car is locked and the keys aren’t nearby.I have a 22 premium and I tapped the RCAs into the one speaker it said In the write up and I'm getting the engine noise in the subs even after I unplugged the module by the glove box. Any way to get rid of this.
Also I tapped into the green wire for the shit off and it doesn't.
Fun times.
Really appreciate this entire tutorial and you have inspired me to attempt my own install. I was hoping I could ask a question to clarify something regarding the amp remote wire.Tapping input signal (GR86 premium/BRZ limited):
If you’re using the speed wire I recommended, slice it open and pull out the appropriate length of 2 wire pairs. White and gray are the standard colors for FL/FR so i’ll be using those sets.
We’ll be accessing everything at the factory amplifier. There is a foam piece that is in the way held in by 3 visible push pins. Pop those up with your pry tool and flip the foam piece out of the way so you can access the wiring harness. Unplug the harnesses, and using your razor blade cut back the factory wire dressing a few inches.
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There are 2 options for getting signal back here: high level or low level. If you’re not sure, use low level. High level will generally require you to solder your speaker wires to the high level input harness, and most people reading this probably don’t own a soldering iron. If you’re using low level, you can simply cut one end off your RCA cables, strip back the insulation, and splice the wires directly into the low level inputs at the factory amplifier. It will generally be fairly obvious what color wire inside the RCA is positive/negative. Alternatively, you can buy 2 female RCA pigtails on amazon for fairly cheap and just splice those in.
Amp turn-on is also found here, it is the dark green wire in the middle of the harness. You can splice the 18ga blue wire in your power kit into there.
Here are pins and wire colors:
Low level:
FL (+/-): ltgrn pin A3/yellow pin A9
FR (+/-): white pin A4/ltblu pin A10
High level:
FL (+/-): ltgrn pin A1/blue pin A5
FR (+/-): brown pin A2/purple pin A6
Pins are counted right to left.
The positives are all on the top row directly above their corresponding negative wire so verifying pins is easy.
When making your connections, use a military splice. This is the technique every (good) professional installer uses. I highly advise against using T-taps or any other hackjob wiring connector.
Start by stripping back a small section of insulation.
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Use your hook tool to poke a hole through the center of the strands.
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Strip the end off the wire you’re splicing in, and twist the strands so they stay together nicely.
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Wire go in hole.
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Wrap the wire around, then pinch the connection point to close the hole you poked.
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Apply electrical tape. Less is more here, you don’t need more than about a centimeter of tape.
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Once you’ve made all your connections, reapply factory wire dressing. Subaru just uses electrical tape, so this is easy.
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