[Mangoexploder]

Thanks for sharing. If you replace your oil often and are not putting your car in extreme conditions (driving or temperatures), then the best oil is the cheapest imo. Pennzoil (Shell) has that $25 rebate going on year round… such a deal, especially if you are replacing often. 1 or 10 ppm of something isn’t going to matter after that oil hits 500 miles and gets mixed with gas etc.

Lotsa truth to this. Instead of focusing on extreme condition performance, I would say that for most owners, changing oil thats degradaded from use should be the priority. Twice the oil changes is probably better over all.

 

[las27563481]

I've been reading them, and of the ones I've seen, Amsoil is one of the least signs of wear, with less iron, aluminum and copper particles, isnt it?. It has less viscosity, but not because it has lost it, but because it is less viscous from the factory. A new Amsoil SS 5w30 has a viscosity of 10,2-10,4 at 100ºC, while the Mobil 1 ESP has +12

Looking only at the metals (5W30), it very hard to see any clear winner because there are too many variables. First we have brands broken into models, then some cars are under 5000 miles, so still showing break in metals, then use case such as track cars which will show more metals and then cars that just get daily driving with few sustained high RPM periods which will show lower metals, then there's OCI. Again too many variables, especially use case.

As far as viscosity, for performance most typically want to stay at or above a certain cSt comfort zone, without having to start too high or thick of an oil (so a narrower bandwidth is preferred, but usually costs more and/or has less viscosity range adders). I have not broken the data down by brand and model and do not have all the VOA numbers, especially for the brands considered as boutique. Just looking at our 5W30 data, cSt for Amsoil looks to end up near the off the shelf brands in the 8's and low 9's, M1 ESP in the mid 9 to 10's and Motul and Redline in the low to mid 10's.
I am no oil expert, just look at the data...... a lot!

 

[adc]

These days oil is oil. The results don’t show a clear picture. One oil may give a good result in one vehicle and not so goon in another.
Best advice is to do a UOA which also may show if your engine is sound. I will always go with a heavier oil than a 20wt. Also I am a fan of higher molybdenum especially in a manual where full film lubrication is lost and higher moly may reduce bearing wear.

if you are going extended oil changes, a Group IV or V is good. Redline, RP, Motule, Amsoil, Shaeffer’s. I have done many 10 k miles on Group IIi oils

 

[TessaSeveride]

These days oil is oil. The results don’t show a clear picture. One oil may give a good result in one vehicle and not so goon in another.
Best advice is to do a UOA which also may show if your engine is sound. I will always go with a heavier oil than a 20wt. Also I am a fan of higher molybdenum especially in a manual where full film lubrication is lost and higher moly may reduce bearing wear.

if you are going extended oil changes, a Group IV or V is good. Redline, RP, Motule, Amsoil, Shaeffer’s. I have done many 10 k miles on Group IIi oils

Right.. along the same lines as steak is steak, pizza is pizza, and wine is wine. If oil is oil, then there would be no wear difference between lower and higher grades.

 

[EXEGR86]

@GR_Navarrete you can check the thread here, from what I can recall, ironically those Group 3 oils that you shared in the image held viscosity better than Amsoil for example. Also I follow BITOG from time to time and the Ravenol DXG is also know for shearing like crazy in otherwise ok engine, I don't even want to imagine how that oil would shear down in the FA24. On the other hand, those PAO/Ester blends usualy start off with lower virgin viscosity, so the shear might not be that crazy in percents.

Of course, viscosity is not the only factor, but why would I over-pay for the "better" oil on paper, if I know I can get cheaper oil that won't shear down just by touching the FA24

Hi! I was thinking of using Ravenol DFE 0w20, I live in Patagonia (cold climate) is this a good oil? I can also get Toyota Japan oil, but I'm sure it's Idemitsu.

 

[adc]

Right.. along the same lines as steak is steak, pizza is pizza, and wine is wine. If oil is oil, then there would be no wear difference between lower and higher grades.

Thats basically true. What is a "Higher Grade"?

 

[unrealpatrik]

Hi! I was thinking of using Ravenol DFE 0w20, I live in Patagonia (cold climate) is this a good oil? I can also get Toyota Japan oil, but I'm sure it's Idemitsu.

Ravenol DFE is a high quality oil, but usually very expensive. Unless you drive frequently in less than -10C, I wouldn't bother with a 0W in this car. Just get 5W-30 with ACEA C3 cert all year round. What are your coldest and average cold temps? Patagonia is coastal region, I doubt you get extreme freezing temperatures.

 

[TessaSeveride]

Thats basically true. What is a "Higher Grade"?

It's not true. I was being facetious. There are clear distinctions between different steaks, pizzas, and wines, just like there are clear distinctions between different oils when you factor in the grade, additives, and approvals.

If you "know quite a bit about lubrication" as you claim, you should know that oil viscosity is based on the SAE grading system, which provides a grade for a given viscosity. Oil weight is not the proper term for the viscosity grade.

 

[adc]

If you "know quite a bit about lubrication" as you claim, you should know that oil viscosity is based on the SAE grading system, which provides a grade for a given viscosity. Oil weight is not the proper term for the viscosity grade.

Of course the latest AP/SAE categories are being compared. Thats a Given....API SN from a "Low Quality Oil" (whatever that means) will perform essentially the same as a SN "High Quality Oil " (whatever that means).

Perhaps you would care to explain the difference between a Low and High Quality Oil to other less knowledgeable posters like me.

 

[TRU-BOOST]

Of course the latest AP/SAE categories are being compared. Thats a Given....API SN from a "Low Quality Oil" (whatever that means) will perform essentially the same as a SN "High Quality Oil " (whatever that means).

That isnt really the case. That just means both oils meet the same minimum standard. That does not imply that they perform the same in all situations. This is why many manufacturers have to put their own certifications in place, because NOT every oil with the same certification is created equal. Do I still think individual oil certs are a money grab scam, yes absolutely. But keep in mind an oil that meets API SP and one that drastically exceeds the standards will have the same label on the bottle.

 

[adc]

That isnt really the case. That just means both oils meet the same minimum standard. That does not imply that they perform the same in all situations. This is why many manufacturers have to put their own certifications in place, because NOT every oil with the same certification is created equal. Do I still think individual oil certs are a money grab scam, yes absolutely. But keep in mind an oil that meets API SP and one that drastically exceeds the standards will have the same label on the bottle.

That may well be but. I would defy you or anyone to pick an oil or an oil it the Top 5% that will outperform 95% of the other oils as far as wear metal/thousand miles.
I have been a member of bitoig.com for 25 years and no one has been able to prove what you say is true.

Will you provide me with the name of an oil that will prove superior to 95% of all oils. Thats a very low bar actually. I know lots of folks including me who are all ears.

 

[TxDivemaster]

I'm no scientist... but I can tell you if you change your oil every 3 to 4,000 mi, your car should be able to go 300k

 

[las27563481]

I'm no scientist... but I can tell you if you change your oil every 3 to 4,000 mi, your car should be able to go 300k

Not the way some of us drive!! For some, every 3-4 track days might be the best OCI. Either way, overall use case is a major key to "best oil" selection for durability, economy and performance.

 

[TRU-BOOST]

That may well be but. I would defy you or anyone to pick an oil or an oil it the Top 5% that will outperform 95% of the other oils as far as wear metal/thousand miles.
I have been a member of bitoig.com for 25 years and no one has been able to prove what you say is true.

Will you provide me with the name of an oil that will prove superior to 95% of all oils. Thats a very low bar actually. I know lots of folks including me who are all ears.

I could but with proprietary data and in use cases that are not relevant to your average user no matter how "race car" they think they are. So actually, no. I can't
And I would t say there is 1 that is better than 95% of the rest. But there is clearly a top group and bottom group.

 

[TessaSeveride]

Of course the latest AP/SAE categories are being compared. Thats a Given....API SN from a "Low Quality Oil" (whatever that means) will perform essentially the same as a SN "High Quality Oil " (whatever that means).

Perhaps you would care to explain the difference between a Low and High Quality Oil to other less knowledgeable posters like me.

Not really sure what this comment has to do with viscosity grading.

There is no need to define "low quality" and "high quality" oil. 99.99% of the world just needs to look at the list of approvals a certain oil has and base usage on that.

 

[EXEGR86]

Ravenol DFE is a high quality oil, but usually very expensive. Unless you drive frequently in less than -10C, I wouldn't bother with a 0W in this car. Just get 5W-30 with ACEA C3 cert all year round. What are your coldest and average cold temps? Patagonia is coastal region, I doubt you get extreme freezing temperatures.

thanks for responding! The climate here in winter is around -5 and in summer maximums of 15/20 C, I normally use it once a week.

 

[adc]

I could but with proprietary data and in use cases that are not relevant to your average user no matter how "race car" they think they are. So actually, no. I can't
And I would t say there is 1 that is better than 95% of the rest. But there is clearly a top group and bottom group.

OK. What oil do you use.

 

[TRU-BOOST]

Way to read between the lines.
I have used exclusively Castrol Magnatec for a long time. Unfortunately they stopped producing and selling it in the USA about 2 years ago. When I heard it was happening I stocked up on all the 5w20 and 5w30 I could get my hands on. I have been using it only in my BRZ and SHO Taurus. It has always been a top performer in ecoboost engines which tend to be hard on oil. The BRZ does shear it down worse than twin turbo 3.5 V6 in the taurus which is crazy. But in 5w20 I was staying at or above the 8.0 cSt visc at 100c. Now using 5w30 it is more than good enough. I am however down to my last 12ish quarts of my old faithful stuff. I have been experimenting with suitable replacements using my impreza as a guinea pig. So far I know I wont be using Havoline or the GTX blend from Castrol. I am currently playing with Valvoline Advanced. Im actually hoping it looks good because the stuff can be bought in bulk for dirt cheap.

 

[adc]

Fair enough. Thanks!!I do think Amsoil Signature 5W-30 produces good wear results and here is an example.

Thanks again.

 

[adc]

Just put Valvoline in and one Quart of Movil1 20W-50. I will do a UOA at 5K miles. If OK at 10K miles