The filtering is done at the head unit (most likely part of the dsp). Even with the fader set all the way to the back the fronts still have some sound so I found it hard to determine the actual crossover point and order using spectrum analyzer apps on an iphone. I don’t have any professional sound equipment, lol. To me it seems like somewhere between 250 and 500Hz.

There is a software customization setting in TechStream (software you use to connect via ODB2) called Radio Frequency that has value of default, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. There is no description/documentation for it. It would be nice if these were different profiles that could be applied. I never tried changing it from default.

 

GAH.. the fader doesn't even fully fade!? Ok.. so one thing you can do.. If you have high level adapters (i.e., speaker level to line level), you can wire them in and adapt to 1/8" headphone.. to lightning. I've done something similar to connect piezoelectric accelerometers to the lightning port for some field vibration stuff I was working on. You can get legit data from that. Fading limitations and such won't matter.

 

I'd love to be able to get full signal to the back speakers after an upgrade

 

Am I the first one to do this? The rear speakers are the biggest joke ever. This is a huge improvement. I can now actually hear all 4 speakers. Doesn't look bad either. And if I ever want to upgrade or change things, I can just take the speakers out and do it. Don't have to take the car apart. BTW, I will be painting the red logo black.

Steve

 

first ive seen. what size speaker did you go with?

Reminds me of what i did on my old car (pics are horrible)

 

Base has 6 ohm rear speakers.

 

Not sure if this is different in the US. In Europe all variants are using 6 ohm speakers in the rear. The capacitor which is added to the speaker is problematic because it causes a cut off at about 1500 Hz which means that thing will not play midrange or any lower frequencies.

 

This is really useful information. This forum is wonderful.

 

Thanks for this really detailed and informative guide mate - I'm getting a BRZ here in Australia in a month or so, and thanks to your detailed write up I feel confident enough to buy the required parts to install them myself. Surprisingly I've never really done any kind of speaker install, so this is new ground thanks to you!

The only key parts I couldn't find in Aus so far are the Scosche SAT6 door 6.5' speaker mount adapters, but it looks like the Metra 82-8148s should fit (please let me know if I'm wrong). Also i don't plan to upgrade the rear 2.5" speakers as some of the parts are hard to find here, do you think that will detract much from the overall quality assuming I do the 3.5/4" dash upgrade + 6.5" front door upgrades?

Thanks again for the write up mate, I'm sure its helped a lot of people in the 86/BRZ community!

 

tbh i doubt the rear speakers do much of anything. slide your balance all the way to the front and see if you even notice a difference. stock aftermarket or no speakers back there is so little of an impact

 

I put in 5.25 inch speakers in the rear - huge difference in sound quality. Just no bass from them.
Steve

 

Has anyone added an amp for the speakers on a base? I currently have JL Audio C1 component speakers for the doors/dash, C1 2-ways for the rear and a Rockville spare tire sub. Sounds great, but I can't help but wonder what an amp would do for the C1's. Was thinking a modest, small 4 channel amp for the 6 interior speakers (like the Alpine KTP-445U), would like to place behind the factory head unit and just use the stock speaker wiring to simplify things. I wasn't sure if there would be enough room or if I'm even on the right track here. Channel A would be for the component speakers as they are run in parallel, and channel B for the rears?

 

you are on the right track. with 4 channels of amplification you'd have 2 for the front and 2 for the rear. Honestly you may not even need to amplify the rear speakers so you could simplify with only a 2 channel for the front. but if its relatively close in price maybe doing it just to do it would make sense too.

 

Thank you for confirming my thoughts! This is my first time messing with an amp. I really hope it could fit behind the stock head unit. You're certainly right about the rears not really needing amplified, but I think the main reason I want to tie those in as well is because of how much of a pain it was to mount them as the aftermarket speakers were so much bigger than the stocks lol. Probably could have just left the stocks in there since they barely make noise, but here we are. With an amp to send more power back there, maybe they will come to life a bit to give the system a bit fuller of a sound.

 

ive never looked behind the HU on the twins but fitting an amp behind there is a tall order. ur going to need a tiny amp for that to be even close to possible. technology has made some good strides so maybe one of the tiny class D amps may work but eh. class ab is where you want to go if the best sound is your goal. D is efficient but you loose some sound quality for that efficiency.

the biggest thing to remember about amps is power makes heat. more power more heat and thus bigger footprint to better dissipate the heat. The only way outside of this is efficiency.

 

I ended up picking up an Alpine KTP-445U, my plan is to splice it in right behind the head unit with speaker level inputs and hopefully squeeze it in behind there against the firewall. Obviously it's not the most powerful amp, but it will send significantly more power to my JL Audio C1's than the factory radio. I'm not going for the very best or loudest, but rather just an improvement in clarity and to hopefully round out some of the 'trebleness' of the C1's.

I was hoping the factory radio was on a 15a fuse so I could just tap into it for power, but it looks like it may only be 7.5a? If so, guess I'll just run a fuse tap or something.

 

I ended up picking up an Alpine KTP-445U, my plan is to splice it in right behind the head unit with speaker level inputs and hopefully squeeze it in behind there against the firewall. Obviously it's not the most powerful amp, but it will send significantly more power to my JL Audio C1's than the factory radio. I'm not going for the very best or loudest, but rather just an improvement in clarity and to hopefully round out some of the 'trebleness' of the C1's.

I was hoping the factory radio was on a 15a fuse so I could just tap into it for power, but it looks like it may only be 7.5a? If so, guess I'll just run a fuse tap or something.

Let me know how this goes. Take some photos of your journey. 😂 After pulling out my head unit there was very little room back there. There is more room above the glove box, or possibly mounted inside the glove box on top plastic. I would 100% run dedicated fused power from battery to any amp. Don’t use the car’s circuits. You could do a short run through the existing hole in the firewall shown in my subwoofer how to guide.

 

I had these in my old car I took them out before I sold it.
Spr60c

Would I be able to use them as a replacement for factory speakers in a 2022 Limited BRZ?

 

should be able to yes

 

Nice, I never thought about the area right above the head unit. You are right, there is a little bit of room there as when I pulled my head unit out, my cables were wedged behind the bar that runs inside the dash (when they put it all together at the factory) and I had to use that opening to free the cables from the bar to get the head unit out all the way.

For the crackling, make sure all our connections are solid. Also, one of the big problems with this car is the way the telematics system sits inline between the head unit and front speakers, and unfortunately the front channels are the only ones with full range of sound which need tapped. I don’t know how many watts the telematic can take, I would think as much as the factory amp. It looks like you tapped from the head unit harness. This would be similar to how the factory amp is on the premium if you used all the factory wiring. I had a thread early on asking about tapping after the telematics, but I believe if you do that it won’t work unless you add resistance as it expects speaker load (impedance). This is the main reason I decided against adding an amp. It was just too much hassle.

Thanks for sharing and the photos!

 

That's interesting about the telematics. I was a little worried about the lack of resistance causing the HU not to send a signal. So far, no issues with anything. I checked every connection and even redid a couple but no improvement to the static, however I have the gain almost at none on the amp so it's not noticeable at all. Even with the gain so low, at volume 15 (where I used to keep it if I didn't want it very loud) it sounds more like what volume 17-18 was. The biggest worry I had going in was feedback from the engine coming through the speakers, but all good there, guess I got a good ground.

 

My sound system is currently stock, but I can hear the slightest static through the speakers. I never noticed this when my car was running, but in accessory mode I can hear it. Anyone else have this issue? Is it the ground?

Also planning on running a sub power wire soon. I noticed u/removedonut opted to drill a hole, but it looks like there is an option to go through an existing hole which u/Neptune86 used. Trying to decide which route will be the better choice.

 

You mention the sound system is stock, but did you make any other modifications to your car? Like LED lighting etc? Maybe interference or loose cable?

I would recommend using the hole that exists already. See my sub install here:

Base GR86 Spare Tire Subwoofer

Disclaimer/warning: Always have negative terminal of battery disconnected at all times when working on electrical. Special thanks to @removedonut for his inspiration and replies to my questions about his install (his is JBL). Due to the limited space in the truck and lack of real spare tire...

www.gr86.org

 

Just a reminder, this is for the BASE GR86. As noted, I just disconnected the tweeters and connected the speaker harness from Crutchfield to the car wiring connector the tweeter was connected to. The dash coaxial speaker connects to the harness and this speaker harness feeds the signal to the other 2 pins on the 4 pin car connector, which feeds the door speakers. Basically it keeps the factory setup/behavior in place. The dash and doors run in parallel from factory and in this setup.

 

I've just opened up my dash speaker and unplugged the tweeter. It's only now that I've realised there is only a tweeter in there. Since I've installed coaxial speakers in the door is it better just to disconnect the tweeters or run a bypass on the tweeters? I assume running a bypass will change the ohms, but not entirely sure if thats good or bad for the door speakers?

Edit: OK I've just realised you cant simply unplug the tweeter as the door speakers wont run. Also the back speakers are a total joke. So I am either gonna bypass the tweeter or try and install a 4 inch speaker in the dash...

 

I read most of the thread and didn't a definite answer. But has anyone with the premium oem system installed these speakers? If yes, how do they sound?

I have a limited BRZ, and want to swap out the door and dash speakers.

 

oh right, dumb Toyota engineering. But yeah the tweeter has 2 wires in and 2 wires out so yeah you would just need a jumper. In my corolla i bought a wiring harness and just didn't connect it to anything.

 

I have a base GR86, and was attempting to add the 4" Polk DB402 driver near the 1" tweeter on the passenger side. However, since I'm not so good at this kind of stuff, I ran into a problem and have some questions. After cutting off the plastic, I still don't see how the holes line up with the speaker. In the photo below, I really only see 2 places that should be used as speaker mounting points (#2 and #4 in the photo below)

But I can't see how anything lines up. Which holes should I be using?

I feel like even if I cut off the tab (is this the speaker ear the guide refers to?) near the bottom that's blocking the speaker from being able to drop in, I won't be able to line up more than 1 hole. Any idea what I'm doing wrong here? The guide says to cut off 2 mounting tabs/ears not needed, I wasn't sure what that was referring to.

 

I feel like even if I cut off the tab (is this the speaker ear the guide refers to?) near the bottom that's blocking the speaker from being able to drop in, I won't be able to line up more than 1 hole. Any idea what I'm doing wrong here? The guide says to cut off 2 mounting tabs/ears not needed, I wasn't sure what that was referring to.

The ears / mounting tabs are the things on the outside that you'd be screwing into. I think the play here is to cut off the ear near 3 and use 2 and 4. And if that other plastic piece gets in the way get rid of it.

 

looks like 4 and 2 should line up no? just need to twist it a little

 

Holes 2 and 4. You need the speed clips that I noted too. For the speaker to be put in place, you need to tear off/cut two of the speaker tabs/ears, as I noted in my original post. I should have taken a final shot of how it was installed.

 

Thanks for the replies, I JUST realized what a speaker "ear" is after reading what you all wrote ( the ear connected to the speaker ). This whole time I just thought it was something on the dash. I do have the U clips, so I should be good. Thanks a bunch!

 

I added a thin layer of foam rubber on edge of the speaker so that it basically rests against the molded ring inside of the door.

how thin exactly? 1/16, 3/16...doing this tmw. Local hardware has 3/16 - have an hour to order 1/16 from amazon to get it here tmw.

 

It was the same foam tape I used for my spare tire subwoofer install, but made thin strips. The photos in this tread show the foam tape around the edge of the door speakers.

 

Hi guys, another question which might be obvious but isn't to me: do you need to use bass blockers/capacitors on the replacement dash speakers if just switching the wire from the tweeter?
Or does the wire only supply a high end signal?
I don't want to solder anything, so tossing up between replacing the tweeter or replacing the tweeter with a 3.5" coaxial to improve mid-range like GRRTalk did.

 

im 90% sure its full range signal. your tweeter would need some kind of filter but most tweeter "sets" have this included

 

With the Focal, IS TOY 165 kit, it's plug and play. The dash tweeter has a filter as part of the package.

I have it installed (by myself) and don't need any more mid range, on the EQ i have it toned down.
IS TOY 165