[GR86Talk]

Didn’t know about that. I’ll give it a try, thanks

I thought this was enabled by default, else I would have recommended that too. 😂

 

[brady6]

I thought this was enabled by default, else I would have recommended that too. 😂

Dawg. How did you unplug the tweeters from the dash. If you can help me out here I’d be down to Venmo you like 20$ 🤣 I’ve been trying to unplug these so I can wire in a 2 way 3.5 instead of the fsctory tweeter and I just CANT get it unplugged 🤣

 

[brady6]

Dawg. How did you unplug the tweeters from the dash. If you can help me out here I’d be down to Venmo you like 20$ 🤣 I’ve been trying to unplug these so I can wire in a 2 way 3.5 instead of the fsctory tweeter and I just CANT get it unplugged 🤣

Just kidding. You just have to pull really hard. Hahhaa like way harder than you’d expect

 

[GR86Talk]

They are on there tight, I agree 100%!

 

[Flipp]

Hello and thanks for the great write up.

I'm in the process of doing this upgrade, but I will be doing an active set-up using Wideband on the dash and new 6.5 on the doors.
The issue I was having was getting the signal from the dash wiring to my high level input (audiocontrol amp) on my amp. I'm using this amazon wiring kit RED WOLF Car Front Center Dash Tweeter Wiring Harness Replacement. The kit only works and sends signal to the amp IF I join both Positives (red) and Negatives (black) which then turns the amp on like remote 12V turn on wire and full range signal.

I was hoping I could use one pair of the red/black terminals to be my Full Range source that goes to the amp and One set to go to the Doors Speakers this way I will not need to tap or run new wires. Unfortunately this does not seem to work UNLESS both reds/black wires are joined.

From my limited research, I am able to run wires through the door grommet but this will involve modifying the door harness which I'm hesitant to do. If I can tap the wires from behind the kick panels, I prefer doing this but will need the Color Code for each side. Also, I really don't wanna have to go behind the radio and purchase an eBay Harness.

Do you have the Color Code behind each kick panel I can tap into for the Door Speakers? I really appreciate the help and the awesome writeup.

Cheers
Mike

 

[tor.anderson]

Thanks for the great writeup. I also have a 2022 GR86 Base model that desperately needs audio help, and I'll likely go with your speaker recommendations.

Have you considered adding small DSP Amp to help?
I was looking at the Kicker 47KEY200.4 I'm not looking to make it louder, but looking to reduce distortions and tune it for the car.

Kicker 47KEY200.4

Compact 4-channel car amplifier with automatic tuning DSP — 50 watts RMS x 4

www.crutchfield.com

Do you know how to use a 4 channel amp if I add rear speakers?
Thanks!

 

[Stephenm]

I put my system together on Crutchfield and spoke to one of their advisors to make sure everything would work together. I asked him about a DSP amp. He said that unless you are going to spend a lot of time adjusting the different frequencies( beyond what you can do with the car’s equalizer), you don’t need one.
I have bought from them in the past, and gotten good advice from them. They aren’t out to upsell you, but can look at your choices and make recommendations.

 

[Stephenm]

ignore this.

 

[GR86Talk]

Hello and thanks for the great write up.

I'm in the process of doing this upgrade, but I will be doing an active set-up using Wideband on the dash and new 6.5 on the doors.
The issue I was having was getting the signal from the dash wiring to my high level input (audiocontrol amp) on my amp. I'm using this amazon wiring kit RED WOLF Car Front Center Dash Tweeter Wiring Harness Replacement. The kit only works and sends signal to the amp IF I join both Positives (red) and Negatives (black) which then turns the amp on like remote 12V turn on wire and full range signal.

I was hoping I could use one pair of the red/black terminals to be my Full Range source that goes to the amp and One set to go to the Doors Speakers this way I will not need to tap or run new wires. Unfortunately this does not seem to work UNLESS both reds/black wires are joined.

From my limited research, I am able to run wires through the door grommet but this will involve modifying the door harness which I'm hesitant to do. If I can tap the wires from behind the kick panels, I prefer doing this but will need the Color Code for each side. Also, I really don't wanna have to go behind the radio and purchase an eBay Harness.

Do you have the Color Code behind each kick panel I can tap into for the Door Speakers? I really appreciate the help and the awesome writeup.

Cheers
Mike

For the BASE stereo setup (6 speaker) for that adapter, you should be able to use the speaker harness female spade connectors (that normally go to dash speakers) as input for the amp (getting signal from pins 1 and 3 from head unit), and doors get the signal tied in on pins 2 and 4.
Another solution would be to use a high level output converter at the head unit. See my spare tire subwoofer how-to guide. If you have the premium 8 speaker setup, wiring is different. I would tap off leads to amp in trunk.

Here is the BASE 6 speaker wire diagram:

 

[GR86Talk]

Thanks for the great writeup. I also have a 2022 GR86 Base model that desperately needs audio help, and I'll likely go with your speaker recommendations.

Have you considered adding small DSP Amp to help?
I was looking at the Kicker 47KEY200.4 I'm not looking to make it louder, but looking to deduce distortions and tune it for the car.

Kicker 47KEY200.4

Compact 4-channel car amplifier with automatic tuning DSP — 50 watts RMS x 4

www.crutchfield.com

Do you know how to use a 4 channel amp if I add rear speakers?
Thanks!

I did consider running a small 4 channel amp for front and 2 channel amp for rear early on but I have had good luck running the main sound speakers off the stock deck with high efficiency coaxial speakers, like the polks. If you run a 4 channel mini amp you will have to mount it behind or in or under the glove box as there is no room behind the factory headunit, unless you run it back in the trunk. Keep in mind the front would have dash and door speakers which would take 4 channels unless you run them in parallel. Most small 4 channels may not support 2ohm for 2 channels if you ran dash and speakers together, and 4ohm for the rears on the other 2 channels. The front speaker leads are the only full range signal from the head unit, keep that in mind. You could tap rears for another amp, but they are filtered and amping that isn’t really going to help imo. The main issue tapping all channel input from front for front and rear amps is you loose fader control from head unit. Adding multichannel non factory amps are going to require a lot more signal wiring (although you can hack the dash harness using and adapter to feed the second channel to the doors). Also, If you run a separate amp, always run separate power and use a good ground point, do not try to tap into factory power circuits. There is a lot more to discuss but I don’t have time right now.

 

[Flipp]

For the BASE stereo setup (6 speaker) for that adapter, you should be able to use the speaker harness female spade connectors (that normally go to dash speakers) as input for the amp (getting signal from pins 1 and 3 from head unit), and doors get the signal tied in on pins 2 and 4.
Another solution would be to use a high level output converter at the head unit. See my spare tire subwoofer how-to guide. If you have the premium 8 speaker setup, wiring is different. I would tap off leads to amp in trunk.

Here is the BASE 6 speaker wire diagram:

View attachment 9527

Thank you very much for the reply. I finally managed to get signal from the tweeter harness and into my DSP/AMP and also was able to tap from the same harness the door speakers. Just like you mentioned here. I used the same pins and just needed to upgrade the software on my DSP/AMP for it to finally work as intended. Been at it since Saturday..Whewww.. Tomorrow Ill be installing another amp and also the BassPro Hub spare tire passive subwoofer. Should be an easy day to do just the doors speakers and subwoofer. Will upload pics as soon as it is complete.

Thank you again.

Mike

 

[Neptune86]

I put my system together on Crutchfield and spoke to one of their advisors to make sure everything would work together. I asked him about a DSP amp. He said that unless you are going to spend a lot of time adjusting the different frequencies( beyond what you can do with the car’s equalizer), you don’t need one.
I have bought from them in the past, and gotten good advice from them. They aren’t out to upsell you, but can look at your choices and make recommendations.

Do you mind sharing what you ordered from them? It shows that they aren't sure what fits our car. I also like to buy from them

 

[Stephenm]

A 3-way component system. 6 1/2” woofers in the doors. You can choose based on your budget. Decide what size sub you want. You’ll probably want a 4-channel amp to drive the speakers and a separate amp for the subwoofer. That’ll all be based on what components you choose.

 

[jon]

I have the 8 speaker Limited BRZ. I added some noise blocking but, for me, that just highlighted the mediocre performance of the stock speakers. Even though I have the "upgraded" speakers, I decided to try the Polk speakers, wiring harness adapters, and speaker mounting brackets recommended by the op.
For the dash speakers I probably could have gotten away without using the replacement U-clips from harbor freight by just widening the speaker mounting tab gap and using the original bolts and U-clips, but since I had already bought the U-clips I went ahead and replaced them.
For the rear speakers I used the original brackets since they were already the necessary 3.5" ones. I did have to cut off the car connector's key since my Metra 72-8105 adapter had the slot on the wrong side, but that was easy to slice off with a knife.
With the new speakers I thought the sound was a bit bright but I turned down the treble EQ and now they sound very good. There is no more "singing with cotton in their mouth" that I was getting from the stock speakers. My bass EQ is up about where the op has it. I think a sub would help fill in the very low bass but for now I am very happy with the quality of sound for the investment required, in a car mainly designed for sport.
Thanks to the op for his excellent write-up!

 

[Raffa]

No problem. I spend time researching and doing the work, it is great to be able to help the community when I can.

Seems like you’re the guy in the know about speakers. I just got my 2022 base model and I can’t get any more than a whisper of volume from the rear speakers. I attempted to adjust it with the fader control but still low. I admit to being a “geezer” and “technologically impaired” and can’t find anything in the owners manual about the speakers. can Anyone help me figure it out please?

 

[Stephenm]

If you follow this thread, you should find the info you want.
Audio System Tuning - painful frequency
Just scroll down until you see the pictures.

 

[GR86Talk]

Seems like you’re the guy in the know about speakers. I just got my 2022 base model and I can’t get any more than a whisper of volume from the rear speakers. I attempted to adjust it with the fader control but still low. I admit to being a “geezer” and “technologically impaired” and can’t find anything in the owners manual about the speakers. can Anyone help me figure it out please?

The stock rears in the base model are very weak. In the base they are 2.5“ paper cones and run at 6 ohms. The front run at 2 ohms. This difference in ohms greatly unbalances the front to rear speaker volume balance. They are also filtered at the head unit, so you also won’t get low to low-mid frequencies from the rear speakers.

The only thing I can suggest if you keep the sound system as is is to set the fader 3 clicks or more to the rear and set the virtual sound stage a few to the rear as well, or set the auto vocal sound stage to medium. The vocal sound stage will help balance the vocals so it doesn’t sound like everything is coming from the front but allows you to keep the fader more toward the middle so you can get base from the front woofers.

 

[Hachi Electronics]

Rear speakers in a car this size are just there to fill the empty airspace and aren’t going to have much oomph to them, because your sound stage is in the front. The pitiful output to the front 3.5’s is a much bigger issue in my opinion.

 

[Raffa]

The stock rears in the base model are very weak. In the base they are 2.5“ paper cones and run at 6 ohms. The front run at 2 ohms. This difference in ohms greatly unbalances the front to rear speaker volume balance. They are also filtered at the head unit, so you also won’t get low to low-mid frequencies from the rear speakers.

The only thing I can suggest if you keep the sound system as is is to set the fader 3 clicks or more to the rear and set the virtual sound stage a few to the rear as well, or set the auto vocal sound stage to medium. The vocal sound stage will help balance the vocals so it doesn’t sound like everything is coming from the front but allows you to keep the fader more toward the middle so you can get base from the front woofers.

Thank you for the information and timely response. I definitely chose the right guy to ask.

Rear speakers in a car this size are just there to fill the empty airspace and aren’t going to have much oomph to them, because your sound stage is in the front. The pitiful output to the front 3.5’s is a much bigger issue in my opinion.

Rear speakers in a car this size are just there to fill the empty airspace and aren’t going to have much oomph to them, because your sound stage is in the front. The pitiful output to the front 3.5’s is a much bigger issue in my opinion.

Thanks for the reply. I was just concerned there was a problem with the speaker system. Glad to have this resource of informed owners.

 

[turburklo]

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Ok, I'm totally confused, where did these tweeters come from? Are they different then the speakers you rec'd? I just want some clarification cause I'm definitely feeling the junkiness of the stock speaks and really wanna throw some better stuff in