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Nope, not even close. There is actually not a lot of space in there. Not only does it lack space, you have to have this sub mounted tight against the body for good performance and limit rattle/vibration. OEM Audio Plus has some kit for a sub that fits on one side of the trunk. It is kind of pricey. Best location with limited hassle and space savings is the spare wheel well.
Cool, thanks. The space looks so big in pictures with the small speakers.
 

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2022 GR86 6AT Base Steel
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
For anyone with the JBL or Cerwin Vega spare tire subs, do they produce strong low bass like in the 20-35Hz range? The only thing I wish I had with this sub was a little more strength for lower bass, like 20Hz-35Hz. I know, I am asking a lot for such a small self amplified sub. I thought the other spare tire subs may have lower bass, but I read some reviews for the Cerwin Vega, and many say it hits hard but doesn’t produce very low bass (I am talking about the bass where you feel it more than hear it). I also heard the JBL isn’t as good for hard hitting bass as the Rockghost or Cerwin Vega (more of a rolling bass). Also, I think the JBL filters under 30Hz, but it has a larger fuse/higher RMS.

Just curious. I am thinking about trying another brand out if they can hit lower as they are dropping in price now. The Cerwin Vega looks like it would be the easiest to swap in. I know one thing for sure is I don’t think I’ll give up trunk space for a dedicated sub/amp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
What would be the difference in install with a premium trim?

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For GR86 premium trim you could get the signals by tapping wires at the factory amp. Removedonut has a thread detailing this. If you are asking about premium BRZ, it is equivalent to this base GR86 install.
 

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So... want to do this on the GR86 Premium. I won't have to go through all the extra wiring stuff and just do as @Master Jedi says to do here:

Correct?
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 · (Edited)
Yes, if you have the premium GR86 with the factory amp in the trunk, it has +/- for the Front L/R channels in the trunk that you can tap into as a source. Most amps or subs with built in amps like spare tire subwoofers like this one, have high level inputs, so you can just splice/tap in the high level inputs to the inputs coming to the factory amp. That way you don’t have to buy a high to low converter, plus many units allow auto turn on using high level input voltage detection. This does have a second or two delay though in my experience, vs direct turn on lead. For my install on the base, I had to go right to the head unit, so I used a converter/RCAs and got the turn on right from the head unit.
 

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Most amps or subs with built in amps like spare tire subwoofers like this one, have high level inputs, so you can just splice/tap in the high level inputs to the inputs coming to the factory amp. That way you don’t have to buy a high to low converter, plus many units allow auto turn on using high level input voltage detection. This does have a second or two delay though in my experience, vs direct turn on lead.
Forgive my complete incompetance on this, but are you saying that if I do hook up the Rockville splicing the into the factory amp in the truck I will have a second or two delay?
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 · (Edited)
Forgive my complete incompetance on this, but are you saying that if I do hook up the Rockville splicing the into the factory amp in the truck I will have a second or two delay?
possibly, if you use high level inputs exclusively, as I don’t think it will use the remote turn on input lead is used on the rockville if using high level inputs. That said, it really depends on the amp circuitry for high level input turn on. The amp won’t turn on until it gets signal from the speakers, and at that point, the speakers are playing already. So for example if the amp circuit is slow to power up after getting signal from the speakers, the speakers will play for a split second before the amp subwoofer plays. Also sometimes a dedicated remote turn on will be a little quicker from a head unit when turned on than the speaker output depending on if the head unit delays output to speakers at startup.

So you may want to look at using the remote turn on from the factory amp and use a high to low converter. This is basically what I did for the base GR86, but at the head unit, not rear factory amp. Basically I was just mentioning that using high level inputs is an option if you don’t want to buy a converter/RCA plugs etc. Sorry for the confusion.
 

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So you may want to look at using the remote turn on from the factory amp and use a high to low converter. This is basically what I did for the base GR86, but at the head unit, not rear factory amp. Basically I was just mentioning that using high level inputs is an option if you don’t want to buy a converter/RCA plugs etc. Sorry for the confusion.
I think I understand. I wouldn't mind buying the converter/RCA if it would prevent the delay. So, I can do what you did but from the rear amp instead of running wire up to the head? I don't really want to do all that if I don't have to. Also wondering if a sub with the 'premium' build would make that much of a difference...🤔🤔
 

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I think I understand. I wouldn't mind buying the converter/RCA if it would prevent the delay. So, I can do what you did but from the rear amp instead of running wire up to the head? I don't really want to do all that if I don't have to. Also wondering if a sub with the 'premium' build would make that much of a difference...🤔🤔
i installed a jbl basshub in my premium trunk, with zero previous speaker experience ( I did swap a few radios, but that was plug-and-play or color-coded splicing). Wiring into the amp in the trunk does not cause any delays I can tell. Sub is powered on as soon as radio is. I cant speak for the rockville, but the jbl makes a massive difference for me. I typically put it at what i consider 1/3 "power" since it really does make the whole car feel like its shaking. Pretty sure it caused a rattle in my roof by my rear window, Toyota added more insulation or something so I wouldnt hear it anymore
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
i installed a jbl basshub in my premium trunk, with zero previous speaker experience ( I did swap a few radios, but that was plug-and-play or color-coded splicing). Wiring into the amp in the trunk does not cause any delays I can tell. Sub is powered on as soon as radio is. I cant speak for the rockville, but the jbl makes a massive difference for me. I typically put it at what i consider 1/3 "power" since it really does make the whole car feel like its shaking. Pretty sure it caused a rattle in my roof by my rear window, Toyota added more insulation or something so I wouldnt hear it anymore
Nice. Did you use a high to low converter with turn on lead or did you use the speaker high level inputs?

The basshub is a little pricer but I believe has a little more power (30amp) and has a bigger woofer. The rockville rockghost shakes my mirrors but doesn’t vibrate the roof. How low can the basshub go? I saw that it has a bottom cutoff filter at 30Hz, while the rockville rockghost has a 20Hz subsonic filter. That said the rockghost doesn’t really go that low. It’s sweet spot is around 40-50Hz. Also, do you know if the basshub has a port or reflex or is it sealed? The 8” rockville has a long port which increases the efficiency. Another spare tire sub is the Cerwin Vega spare tire sub. It has recently dropped in price.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
I think I understand. I wouldn't mind buying the converter/RCA if it would prevent the delay. So, I can do what you did but from the rear amp instead of running wire up to the head? I don't really want to do all that if I don't have to. Also wondering if a sub with the 'premium' build would make that much of a difference...🤔🤔
Yes, any sub will make a huge difference. I had some people pop their head in my car and were super impressed… then I told them the whole setup, which includes 6 polk coaxial speakers inside the cabin and 1 subwoofer in the spare tire area cost me $420 total with all harnesses, brackets, wiring, and supplies, and they were shocked. This said you can buy cars with true premium sound systems, but I think it would be more than a $420 option. I could spend more by getting dedicated amps and better speakers, but the car’s cabin and default speaker locations and openings are limiting, not to mention space for amps and a true sub.
 

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Yes, any sub will make a huge difference. I had some people pop their head in my car and were super impressed… then I told them the whole setup, which includes 6 polk coaxial speakers inside the cabin and 1 subwoofer in the spare tire area cost me $420 total with all harnesses, brackets, wiring, and supplies, and they were shocked. This said you can buy cars with true premium sound systems, but I think it would be more than a $420 option. I could spend more by getting dedicated amps and better speakers, but the car’s cabin and default speaker locations and openings are limiting, not to mention space for amps and a true sub.
Per this thread I also went with the Rockville and it helped a ton, really rounded out the overall sound even if it isn't the biggest/best sub out there. For the price and including everything you needed to wire it up, it couldn't be beat. My next adventure is to try and tuck in the Alpine KTP-445U behind the head unit to send a bit more power to my JL Audio C1's.
 
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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
It should be ok if it doesn’t interfere with hood. It is good to have the fuse at a higher point than the cable coming in from the firewall unless it is 100% waterproof.

Side note: One thing I always do/recommend with any wiring that has possible exposure to water it is make sure you have a drip loop, especially on positive leads. If you are unfamiliar with this, do a google search. Even a couple inches of a dip is usually enough.
 

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I finally finished the installation. What did you guys do with the foam insert that was where the subwoofer now is?

Ricky
I left mine out and store it in a safe place. Some folks cut it to fit with the sub.
 
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