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I have the base model and there is no amp in the trunk, although I do not recall seeing any wiring preset there. Does anyone have a base model that they can confirm if there are any low level outs?

Were you able to test any clipping of the signal? At max volume on the base sound system the speakers distort horribly
 

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I have the base model and there is no amp in the trunk, although I do not recall seeing any wiring preset there. Does anyone have a base model that they can confirm if there are any low level outs?

Were you able to test any clipping of the signal? At max volume on the base sound system the speakers distort horribly
I don’t have a base model but I can confirm there are no low level outs, signal goes directly from the head unit to the speakers so you will need to use a line output converter or use an amplifier that supports high level input.

I am presently lacking an oscilloscope to test for signal clipping, but I certainly wouldn’t recommend going to max volume. On my GR86 premium, I can only take it to about 25 before I start getting distortion just judging it by ear. If you’re looking for more volume you’ll want to add a 4 channel amplifier.
 

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2022+ BRZ/86 - OEM Audio Plus

Has anyone seen or know anything about this kit? I'm not looking for crazy bass or world class audio. Just a decent set up. If this $400 kit gets me there, it's a no brainer. Any thoughts?
$400 for just speakers is quite expensive and isn’t going to solve much. A lot of the audio problems in these cars are related to the dismal amount of power going to the speakers resulting in distortion at mid to high volume, the only way you fix that is with an amplifier.
 

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I don’t have a base model but I can confirm there are no low level outs, signal goes directly from the head unit to the speakers so you will need to use a line output converter or use an amplifier that supports high level input.

I am presently lacking an oscilloscope to test for signal clipping, but I certainly wouldn’t recommend going to max volume. On my GR86 premium, I can only take it to about 25 before I start getting distortion just judging it by ear. If you’re looking for more volume you’ll want to add a 4 channel amplifier.
No doubt about it. I just finished the purchase of a Helix DSP.3 and a second 4 channel amp for 8 channel active. Should be a fun build!

Where is the easiest place to grab the high level signal from? Is it in the passenger / driver side kick panels?
 

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2022+ BRZ/86 - OEM Audio Plus

Has anyone seen or know anything about this kit? I'm not looking for crazy bass or world class audio. Just a decent set up. If this $400 kit gets me there, it's a no brainer. Any thoughts?
They are well known for having a good upgrade in sound in comparison to the stock system. But I agree, for $400 you are better off adding sound deadening and an amplifier and some mid priced components. They should release a more full kit as time goes on. The full system (around $1500 or so) includes a subwoofer, DSP, and upgraded speakers and amplifier. That is what I spent on my system but I am using very high quality units and amplifiers in my system.
 

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No doubt about it. I just finished the purchase of a Helix DSP.3 and a second 4 channel amp for 8 channel active. Should be a fun build!

Where is the easiest place to grab the high level signal from? Is it in the passenger / driver side kick panels?
Easiest requiring least disassembly, yes. They are located in the door boot harnesses, they are purple/gray +/- on the rightmost 2 pins on both sides. If you want to avoid having to do a wire run down both sides of the vehicle I’d grab them (and amp turn on) at the radio instead.
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Easiest requiring least disassembly, yes. They are located in the door boot harnesses, they are purple/gray +/- on the rightmost 2 pins on both sides. If you want to avoid having to do a wire run down both sides of the vehicle I’d grab them (and amp turn on) at the radio instead. View attachment 5804
Thanks for this. How do you get to the head unit outs, do you need to take the head unit out?
 

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Correct. I wasn’t able to find anything regarding the radio in subaru’s service procedures and I haven’t done it on my own, so I’m not sure what disassembly is involved there.
About to tackle this myself, found this video on removing the dash trim to access the HU. I'll let you know how it goes tomorrow.

 

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About to tackle this myself, found this video on removing the dash trim to access the HU. I'll let you know how it goes tomorrow.

I did actually manage to find the service procedure eventually, for what it’s worth. It was under “cockpit control module”, not radio lol. That video’s got the right info though.
 

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Can anyone give us a fix for around $500 or less (with links)? I am guessing it will include two new 6.5-inch speakers for the doors and a low to mid-grade amp. I don't want to rock the house, but I would like to turn the volume up all the way without the sound getting distorted.
 
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So I've just done an (almost) full replacement of all my speakers + added a sub to my car. I have the top trim model (in Japan called RZ, overseas called Premium) so it has 8 speakers + amp. Also Japanese GR86's don't come with a head unit as standard, so I picked up a 9inch Joying Android head unit which fits perfectly in to the blanking plate provided in these cars.

For speakers (again I'm in Japan so the exact models may be a little different) I went with Pioneer, as I had found another Japanese user online who'd done a similar upgrade to their car. Perhaps the equivalent models can be found in your neck of the woods.

Door speakers: Pioneer Carrozzeria TS-C1736S-II (2-way separate tweeters, 6.7"/17cm).
Door speaker baffles: Pioneer Carrozzeria UD-K611 (the ones designed for Toyota/Daihatsu/Audi/Volvo)
Dash speakers: Using the above separate tweeter modules.
Rear speakers: Pioneer Carrozzeria TS-F1040-II (2-way, 3.9"/10cm)
Subwoofer: Pioneer Carrozzeria TS-WX130DA slim subwoofer (160W)
Adapter bracket: Pioneer Carrozzeria KY-Y86JT (these provide brackets for the separate tweeters so they can mount in the dash)

Dash speaker notes:
On top trim car models there's already an integrated tweeter attached to the speaker grille, so I left that as-is. The separate tweeter (+adapter bracket) from the 17cm speaker set then replaces the normal speaker located in the dash. If your car isn't the premium trim, you likely don't have the integrated tweeter - or perhaps it's the other way around, with lower trim getting the integrated tweeter, and an empty spot where the second speaker should go - that will cause more headaches because you won't have wiring for the new tweeter, nor can you re-use the existing bolts etc.
Assuming it's the integrated tweeter that lower trims are missing, then you can proceed with the following. You'll need to do some custom wiring. To get the new tweeters connected to the car side, I had to remove the connector plug from the original dash speaker mount, then connect standard terminals to it so I could connect the new separate tweeters. Mounting with the kit above was super simple.

Door speakers notes:
These are simple. Foam and attach speakers to baffles, make sure to test-fit on the door and get the alignment and wire orientation correct. The door speakers come with cables that directly connect to the OEM door speaker connectors. Sound deadening in the doors is alright - just watch out for rogue grease in certain areas. Overall pretty easy.

Rear speaker notes:
These are a bitch. To do it properly, you have to remove the entirety of the rear seats (bottom and backrest). This allows you to fully pull off the rear side panels. Also makes it a ton easier if you're doing sound deadening. The OEM speakers are mounted on a kind of L bracket - easiest way to go about this is to re-use the bracket, but it takes some messing around. Like the dash tweeters, you'll need to cut and re-use the existing connector - but this time leave it on the bracket. Crimp some standard terminals, and use some of the included cables to connect the speakers to the OEM connector on the bracket.
Meanwhile, the replacement speakers won't fit flush in the OEM mounts because the rear of the speaker is "thicker" in the back. I sealed the gap between the bracket and rear of the speaker with foam padding. Then I used a series of nuts and washers on a long bolt to create a spacer so the speaker mounts weren't bent when screwed down to the bracket. All the stuff I used came from the stuff included in the speaker kits. If it helps, the "sandwich" of spacer stuff was a black nut, two silver washers and one black washer - Used the same combo on each side of the speaker, and that set them tight against the bracket. I also had to throw some electrical tape on to the bracket, as the speakers were raised so much off the mount that the bare-metal wires behind the speaker connectors were touching the bracket. Electrical tape was used to insulate.
TBH, none of this may make any sense written down like this. But if you have all these components in front of you, this will definitely help.

Sub notes:
Pretty straight forward. Ran sub signal and 12V power from front, down the driver-side door trim to the rear. Cut out a larger hole in the foam storage container in the trunk to fit the sub. Not sure if the US gets this "container" or not, but because Japanese models don't come with a spare tire as standard (roads here don't suck so bad), we get this handy space storage space instead.

Again, some (or much) of this might be specific to Japan - speaker model numbers etc. But hopefully it's useful to some degree :)
 

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@Nannou Considering the difficulty of the rear speakers, if you had it to do again would you just have left them stock? In stock form they are nearly inaudible anyway and all sound could be biased forward.

P.S. It's funny that the GR86 Premium is the "RZ" in Japan, which is like "BRZ" without the "B".
 
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@Nannou Considering the difficulty of the rear speakers, if you had it to do again would you just have left them stock? In stock form they are nearly inaudible anyway and all sound could be biased forward.

P.S. It's funny that the GR86 Premium is the "RZ" in Japan, which is like "BRZ" without the "B".
I think my obsession for order and tidiness would probably compel me to replace the rear speakers no matter what. In fact this was actually my second attempt at changing rear speakers in this car. I helped a friend earlier do the same swap-out on his car - except we decided not to remove the rear seats, instead trying to peel back the rear side panels, which was fine for replacing the speakers, but a nightmare when it came to re-clipping the panels.

As far as what benefit the rear speakers provide. I agree, they don't contribute a lot overall. I think the upgrade definitely improves this however. They go from tinny highs, to less tinny 2-way highs/tweets. On my headunit I have this option to both tweak speaker distance/delay, and also this "surround" effect. Bumping up this effect tends to change the dynamics of the rear speakers and you can absolutely hear how they add to the overall sound in the car.

Overall, by far the biggest improvements are the door and dash speakers, perhaps followed by a decently mounted subwoofer in the boot/trunk, and then finally the rear speakers. Though if you went ham and created custom brackets to hold slightly larger speakers in back, I think that would do a lot. But as it stands 10cm is the largest you can fit in the OEM brackets.
 

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Though if you went ham and created custom brackets to hold slightly larger speakers in back, I think that would do a lot. But as it stands 10cm is the largest you can fit in the OEM brackets.
I personally can't stand brightness in speakers. I like warmth and midrange clarity. 10cm is fairly pitiful for rear speakers! It's almost like why bother.

Do you have a photo of your head unit? Just curious how it looks if you feel like sharing.
 

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I personally can't stand brightness in speakers. I like warmth and midrange clarity. 10cm is fairly pitiful for rear speakers! It's almost like why bother.

Do you have a photo of your head unit? Just curious how it looks if you feel like sharing.
Happy to share. I think if a US car wanted to use this, they'd need to get a replacement surrounding cover, because the included OEM headunit on overseas models seems to integrate controls in to sides of the display. In Japan this car comes as standard with a blanking plate where my headunit is located, and you can remove that to install your own system (or Toyota's super expensive one).

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Happy to share. I think if a US car wanted to use this, they'd need to get a replacement surrounding cover, because the included OEM headunit on overseas models seems to integrate controls in to sides of the display. In Japan this car comes as standard with a blanking plate where my headunit is located, and you can remove that to install your own system (or Toyota's super expensive one).

View attachment 10225 View attachment 10226
I'm sorry but I somehow missed this reply in my notifications. That looks spectacular! The thing that catches my eye is the Satnav. I really miss that in this car! I don't like relying on a maps app on my phone over Airplay. They don't work anyway when there's no cell signal, which is frequent in the US when you are off the beaten path where the good roads are found. There's a lot to be said for the simplicity and reliability of true GPS in a car system.
 
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I'm sorry but I somehow missed this reply in my notifications. That looks spectacular! The thing that catches my eye is the Satnav. I really miss that in this car! I don't like relying on a maps app on my phone over Airplay. They don't work anyway when there's no cell signal, which is frequent in the US when you are off the beaten path where the good roads are found. There's a lot to be said for the simplicity and reliability of true GPS in a car system.
Use Google Maps and download the area you plan on driving for offline use. Then no data connection while driving is no problem. Not as easy as using built in nav, but a decent workaround.

We're going to the Upper Peninsula next week. Almost guaranteed no cell signal up there. Downloaded pretty much the entire state of Michigan just in case.
 
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