[pandafabrications]

Viscosity lowers as temp increases. Lower viscosity equals lower pressure. Regardless of whether the oil can withstand breaking down at that temp, if you’re regularly seeing over 240° oil temp I’d install a cooler.

 

[bradsm87]

Haha i finally watched the video. The primary cause for oil in the intake is mist from oil flinging around and blow-by. It's not oil evaporation (well maybe a miniscule percentage is).
Having said that, NOACK is one of a handful of good indicators of a good quality oil. Sadly, most manufacturers don't advertise it.

 

[Ritter]

Haha i finally watched the video. The primary cause for oil in the intake is mist from oil flinging around and blow-by. It's not oil evaporation (well maybe a miniscule percentage is).
Having said that, NOACK is one of a handful of good indicators of a good quality oil. Sadly, most manufacturers don't advertise it.

Hmm! The Noack test, developed by Kurt Noack. And here I am thinking Project Farm invented it.

 

[TRU-BOOST]

Haha i finally watched the video. The primary cause for oil in the intake is mist from oil flinging around and blow-by. It's not oil evaporation (well maybe a miniscule percentage is).
Having said that, NOACK is one of a handful of good indicators of a good quality oil. Sadly, most manufacturers don't advertise it.

Very true. In general your thicker oils will "mist" less than your thinner oils. Some brands are better than other with additives that help this and base oil plays a huge role. But if you stay in the same brand family almost always their 5w30 will perform better than their 0w20 in this test.

 

[formerMiata]

Some of it. Some of it is seeming to vary by region as well. I know many people worry about the "what if" warranty situations. But if you have all the data you need to prove what is the ideal stuff to use, is that not enough reason? If my options are to use inferior oil that offers less protection but keep my warranty OR use more optimum fluids and reduce the chance of ever needing to USE my warranty, I know what I choose.

To me, it is a good enough reason. Manufacturing defects happen and running thicker oil isn’t a guarantee that you never need to use that warranty.

Having a warranty is a major part of why I paid the premium for a new car.

 

[Nblue]

Savage Geese has a video on YT about the perils of direct injection.

He says the problems that arise are deposits building up on the backside of intake valves, in part due to evaporated motor oil fumes and blowby products, not being washed off by port injection. At about 15:50 in the video he starts discussing why its not good to run the thin oils due to their high evaporation rate. He suggests that 0w-16,0w20, 0w-30 are best replaced by 5w-xx oils because they generally are less evaporative.

Toyota has run Adkinson FI for years in Tacoma and Highlander,some of the most reliable vehicles made.

 

[s2mikey]

Damnit. So, we were at BJs to day and I grabbed a case of 6 quarts of Mobil 1 5w30 as my car will be coming out of winter hibernation soon. I meant to get 5w20. I did my break in oil change at the dealer at 1,000 miles and they used. 0w20 but I’d prefer not to run that.

So, here we go again. Should I return it and get 5w20? Or am I fine with the 5w30 as this is only a summer car for me?

 

[TRU-BOOST]

Only harm will be some fuel economy.

 

[Mario0617]

Damnit. So, we were at BJs to day and I grabbed a case of 6 quarts of Mobil 1 5w30 as my car will be coming out of winter hibernation soon. I meant to get 5w20. I did my break in oil change at the dealer at 1,000 miles and they used. 0w20 but I’d prefer not to run that.

So, here we go again. Should I return it and get 5w20? Or am I fine with the 5w30 as this is only a summer car for me?

Seriously not a big deal. The car comes with 5w30 in Australia I believe to cope with the climate there.

 

[s2mikey]

Seriously not a big deal. The car comes with 5w30 in Australia I believe to cope with the climate there.

Yeah - our summers here in upstate, NY get pretty hot/muggy in July and August. My car gets stored winters but will see action in 40 degree weather once the fall hits. I think Ill be fine. I hate overthinking the oil thing, LOL. It was so much easier way back when we just ran 10w40 in our big V8s or 20w50 in our turbo cars.

 

[chrisz5z]

So, here we go again. Should I return it and get 5w20? Or am I fine with the 5w30 as this is only a summer car for me?

You'll be fine unless you plan on driving in -30°F weather.

 

[Mario0617]

Yeah - our summers here in upstate, NY get pretty hot/muggy in July and August. My car gets stored winters but will see action in 40 degree weather once the fall hits. I think Ill be fine. I hate overthinking the oil thing, LOL. It was so much easier way back when we just ran 10w40 in our big V8s or 20w50 in our turbo cars.

True. The Japanese seem extra on the whole super thin oil thing - although they absolutely aren’t alone. I think the Germans are still on a lot of 5W-30/10w40.

I personally wouldn’t go heavier than 5w-30 for the street ever but if you’re a track monster I bet some guys even run 5w-40 or so.

 

[damon]

Seriously not a big deal. The car comes with 5w30 in Australia I believe to cope with the climate there.

The service manual for the AUDM ZD8 BRZ asks for 0W-20, with 0W-30, 5W-20, and 5W-30 as acceptable alternatives. I don't know what they filled it with at the factory/docks/dealership though. I run 5W-20.

 

[bradsm87]

I personally wouldn’t go heavier than 5w-30 for the street ever but if you’re a track monster I bet some guys even run 5w-40 or so.

Yep. STI in Japan’s recommend for the ZD8 is 0w-40 for the street and 5w-40 for hard track use. HKS in Japan recommend 0w-40.

 

[s2mikey]

Only harm will be some fuel economy.

Not much of an issue - its just a weekend toy. I was hoping you'd chime in here, Tru-Boost.

You'll be fine unless you plan on driving in -30°F weather.

I wont be doing ANYTHING in weather that cold, LOL. Luckily we dont see temps that cold here but my car goes into hibernation from December 1st through April 1st each season anyways. The coldest temps it would see are likely in the high 30's/low 40's in late fall. 5w30 for those temps will be fine, Im pretty sure.

Im also old school as in I always let my cars warm up a bit before driving off and never get on them much for at least the first 12-15 mins. I let the fluids get to temp!

 

[vincentyang246]

Once and for all, this is a good video about why manufacturers are being forced to run lower viscosity oil.

 

[gr86aloy]

New modern engines have extremely tight clearances. Using too thick of an oil will prevent the oil from going in between all the moving parts.

 

[Ritter]

Interesting chart. xW-20 not recommended above 75° F?

 

[vincentyang246]

New modern engines have extremely tight clearances. Using too thick of an oil will prevent the oil from going in between all the moving parts.

Shouldn't tight clearance means less efficient on making power? Since more friction is created under load. And I think FA engines have looser clearance than the old EJ, and the old EJ was recommended to run 5w30.

+ by no means jamming 20w50 into your engine is a good thing. However running 0w20 is strickly an economy thing.

And im not discrediting the liquimoly guy at all, he probably knows more than I do. And he probably knows what to say on camera more than I do as well.

 

[TRU-BOOST]

While it is absolutely an economy thing, many manufacturers have made internal engine changes along with the lower viscosity. In many cases oil passages have been reduced in size. That helps keep pressure up with lower visc, faster flowing oil. Combine that with the pine tar oil this guy is talking about and during your entire warmup the flow will be extremely low. Colder climates will be even worse. I think on anything other than a pure track car this is drastic overkill. There is such a thing as too thick and the engine\turbo bearings suffer when cold.
But hey..... 🤷‍♂️