[vincentyang246]

Personal experience.

During the winter my BRZ was running 0w20, since I don't have the factory oil warmer anymore, I let the car warmed up for at least 5 mins before I drive it to work. It burnt half a quart of oil during the 2000 miles I have driven it during the winter.

Now I switched it back to 5w30, the dip stick hasn't shown me I have burnt a single drop of oil 🤷‍♂️. Go figure right? Lol

 

[TRU-BOOST]

Build up still happens, just not as bad as GDI only.

This is an FA20, unknown miles, posted by Gazoo Racing.

View attachment 22683 View attachment 22684

That is essentially nothing. Looks as good as most port injected only valves you would see. Im not a catch can guy myself. I have used them but feel they are more hassle than they are worth. Had my share of ecoboost and other turbo cars that the internet swears "you must run a catch can" go hundreds of thousands of miles without issue. This car with dual injection means absolutely not needed. Keep clean (and enough) oil in there and it will be good to go.

 

[Ritter]

I had to add a catch can on my Spider's 1.4L turbo because the oil-air separator is poorly designed and ends up filling up with oil to the point it just bypasses oil to the intake. Shortly after buying the car, I opened the airbox to check the filter and found it soaked in oil where it had run down from the intake tube and dripped onto the top of the air filter. The bottom and sides of the intake were coated in oil. I was really concerned about the compressor and intercooler getting oil in them not to mention the intake valves (although fortunately, the 1.4L has port injection). After installing the catch can, absolutely no oil made it to the intake. The funny thing is, there's never any oil accumulated in the catch can, just a little bit of brown film / discoloration. It's almost like the addition of all the extra hose length condenses the oil mist and vapor and drains it back to the oil-air separator, while the actual bypass gases continue on to the intake and get re-combusted.

The point of this story is to say that a catch can is one of those things that you add if you are actually having a problem with liquid oil getting into or condensing in the intake. If not, then I don't think a catch can will provide much benefit. I don't think it would hurt anything though if you just want peace of mind.

 

[formerMiata]

On the note of running thicker oil, what is everyone’s thoughts on how 5w30 would impact warranty? What happens if the dealer wants to see oil change receipts after a warranty claim and they say something besides what it says in the owners manual?

 

[DylanJZA]

I'd bet money they deny you unfortunately. Owner's manual says 0w-20 or 5w-20 and switch back to 0w-20 next change.

Now, if you were to have receipts showing the proper oil despite what is actually inside then you'd likely be fine.

 

[jdmchris]

Typically a log you record yourself would be sufficient. You can write in whatever you want.

 

[TRU-BOOST]

US owners manual says 0w20 or 5w30. Other countries say other things. It all comes down to the individual dealer unfortunately. I will tell you that running 0w20 oil will leave you a much higher likelihood of having to see the dealer for a failure to begin with though. Lol

 

[DylanJZA]

My owners manual does not list 5w-30.

It says 0w-20 or 5w-20 if 0w-20 is not available, switch back to 0w-20 upon next oil change. Maybe the BRZ manual is different though...

 

[itsthemetho]

On the note of running thicker oil, what is everyone’s thoughts on how 5w30 would impact warranty? What happens if the dealer wants to see oil change receipts after a warranty claim and they say something besides what it says in the owners manual?

I doubt any warranty claim will involve testing oil viscosity. Additionally 5W-30 oil is somewhat approved in the manuals.

Best bet is to run 0W-20 in the colder 6 months (official service) and something thicker like 5W-30 (unofficial service) for the warmer 6 months if you can. 6 month oil change while an overkill, won't harm the engine unless you stuff it up. If you use the same oil brand and type, the additive package will be similar/same as certification costs are high with certifying different formulations of oil.

Just like HR at work I wouldn't be that open with them (warranty department). No need to tell them about you using thicker oils. Just remember in terms of profits, they prefer to deny claims if given an out.

 

[TRU-BOOST]

That is what I have in mine

 

[DylanJZA]

Mine:

 

[TRU-BOOST]

So weird

 

[Qwertz]

I have this in mine

 

[DylanJZA]

yeah, so seems like a dumb TMS USA thing...

Interesting to see an ILSAC GF-6A is required there vs the GF-5 here.

 

[itsthemetho]

yeah, so seems like a dumb TMS USA thing...

Interesting to see an ILSAC GF-6A is required there vs the GF-5 here.

Weird to see that GF-6A is not being pushed harder by OEMs. GF-6 resolves a number of issues with 0W-20 (GF-6A) and 0W-16 (GF-6B) oils.

Predominately Low Speed Pre-Ignitions (LSPI) piston damage (Direct Injection and/or Turbo engines) and excessive Timing Chain Wear from using these fuel saving oils.

 

[DylanJZA]

Agreed, thankfully we do have them available and the one I use is a GF-6A (Pennzoil Platinum 0w-20).

 

[formerMiata]

Yeah so that’s the shitty thing. Some regions specifically say 5W-30 is fine but I would still expect Toyota USA to give you shit on a warranty claim if you use it because the local manual says otherwise.

It is probably due to EPA regulations requiring them to use a worst case scenario configuration for MPG ratings.

 

[Ritter]

So weird

Subaru vs. Toyota

 

[TRU-BOOST]

Subaru vs. Toyota

Some of it. Some of it is seeming to vary by region as well. I know many people worry about the "what if" warranty situations. But if you have all the data you need to prove what is the ideal stuff to use, is that not enough reason? If my options are to use inferior oil that offers less protection but keep my warranty OR use more optimum fluids and reduce the chance of ever needing to USE my warranty, I know what I choose.

 

[DylanJZA]

You can do both within reason; use the better parts/fluids and hedge your bet so that if you need the warranty you can easily do so without worry.