That is essentially nothing. Looks as good as most port injected only valves you would see. Im not a catch can guy myself. I have used them but feel they are more hassle than they are worth. Had my share of ecoboost and other turbo cars that the internet swears "you must run a catch can" go hundreds of thousands of miles without issue. This car with dual injection means absolutely not needed. Keep clean (and enough) oil in there and it will be good to go.
Argument for thicker oils
Savage Geese has a video on YT about the perils of direct injection.
He says the problems that arise are deposits building up on the backside of intake valves, in part due to evaporated motor oil fumes and blowby products, not being washed off by port injection. At about 15:50 in the video he starts discussing why its not good to run the thin oils due to their high evaporation rate. He suggests that 0w-16,0w20, 0w-30 are best replaced by 5w-xx oils because they generally are less evaporative.
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US owners manual says 0w20 or 5w30. Other countries say other things. It all comes down to the individual dealer unfortunately. I will tell you that running 0w20 oil will leave you a much higher likelihood of having to see the dealer for a failure to begin with though. Lol
Some of it. Some of it is seeming to vary by region as well. I know many people worry about the "what if" warranty situations. But if you have all the data you need to prove what is the ideal stuff to use, is that not enough reason? If my options are to use inferior oil that offers less protection but keep my warranty OR use more optimum fluids and reduce the chance of ever needing to USE my warranty, I know what I choose.Subaru vs. Toyota
Very true. In general your thicker oils will "mist" less than your thinner oils. Some brands are better than other with additives that help this and base oil plays a huge role. But if you stay in the same brand family almost always their 5w30 will perform better than their 0w20 in this test.Haha i finally watched the video. The primary cause for oil in the intake is mist from oil flinging around and blow-by. It's not oil evaporation (well maybe a miniscule percentage is).
Having said that, NOACK is one of a handful of good indicators of a good quality oil. Sadly, most manufacturers don't advertise it.
Only harm will be some fuel economy.
While it is absolutely an economy thing, many manufacturers have made internal engine changes along with the lower viscosity. In many cases oil passages have been reduced in size. That helps keep pressure up with lower visc, faster flowing oil. Combine that with the pine tar oil this guy is talking about and during your entire warmup the flow will be extremely low. Colder climates will be even worse. I think on anything other than a pure track car this is drastic overkill. There is such a thing as too thick and the engine\turbo bearings suffer when cold.
But hey..... 🤷♂️
But hey..... 🤷♂️
Except that isnt actually correct. Many people dont understand oil viscocity and most internet info is explained by people who also dont understand it. Not every oil that starts with a 0 will flow the same when cold. The 1st number does not directly mean "cold". A 0w20 will flow mich better at cold temps than a 0w30 or 0w40. Pick the oil brand of your choice and look at the actual specs on their website. All manufacturers have this info accessible. You will see that if you compare their 0w20, 0w30, and 0w40 oils their viscocity spec for 40c will get higher and higher. There are a lot of chemical factors at play here that I wont geek out over, but the mass understanding of how oil ratings work is wrong. What I can tell you with absolute certainty is that the farther apart you go with the 2 numbers in an oil rating like 0w40 the worse quality the oil becomes. It is very dependant on additives and modifiers to cover such wide viscosity ranges and those break down long before the base oil does. What you end up with is oil that is easily diluted, vaporizes early and does not lubricate well. Want to know why VW\Audi engines are notorious for carbon build up problems that everyone likes to blame on direct injection....? Its their crappy 0w40 oil combined with far too long oil change intervals.This is why 0w-30 and 0w-40 are so good. You get the best of both worlds. Unlike 5w-40 or 10w-40, it's not too thick when cold. To meet modern oil specs, oil manufacturers can't just throw in heaps of cheap viscosity modifiers (know to shear and/or evaporate) like you regularly preach to be the case because it won't meet the stay-in-grade tests to meet modern oil specs. Instead, they need to use better base stocks with better natural multi-grade properties for a start, and use very careful additive selection.
There is a reason why STI (a department of Subaru) and HKS in Japan (This is the country where the car was developed and built AND not held back by the EPA) recommend 0w-40 for street driven cars. It's the best of both worlds. It's similar in viscosity to a 5w-30 at typical cold start temperatures but it doesn't thin out as much as 5w-30 as temperature increases. Most 0w-40 oils are 12.5-13.5 cSt at 100C with a HTHS of between 3.6 and 4. That is WAY better protection at high temperature than 5w20. Yep it may SLIGHTLY thin out over the service life of the oil, but worst case is it'll be the same viscosity as brand new 5w-30 at the end of its service life. It's really not a big deal. It will never thin out at 100C to as thin as brand new 5w-20 at 100C even at the end of its service life.
My car is street driven and at most 3 hard laps on the track in a session and I don't live in a hot climate area so I personally run a 5w-30 API SP Resource Conserving and GF-6A certified oil with a fairly low 40C viscosity due to lack of 0w-30 availability in my area. Personally, I think 5w20 is just too thin when hot if you care about your engine.
This is what it is. There is no law that states "you must use 0w16 oil". What we have is the clean air act. This is epa managed and gets amended somewhat regularly with new ridiculous standards for the industry. The use of thinner oils does have efficiency gains and does create less pollution. So it was readily adopted by many manufacturers to help meet targets. But it is not a requirement. Some companies (like the german ones) prefer to use thick oil and then just lie about their MPG and emissions compliance. 👀I'm sure the EPA would not mandate a particular oil weight BUT what they do is set ridiculous emissions and economy targets that forces manufacturers to resort to stupidly thin oils to achieve them. The EPA then mandate that manufacturers must specify in their manuals that ONLY the oil used for the EPA testing is acceptable to use.
Much of it will vary on the brand and base oil they use. But within the same brand family the 0w40 will still be significantly thicker "cold" than the 5w30. Here is a quick example that I had readily available. Popular stuff, Pennzoil ultra platinum in 0w40 is 33% thicker at 40c than their 5w30. Most people (not saying you, you seemed to do some homework) cannot comprehend that because the internet says a 0w oil will flow better in the cold and that is that. But the data says otherwise.Yes I'm aware that the 0w and 5w are not directly comparable at typical cold-start temps. That's why I said 0w-40 is similar in viscosity to a 5w-30 at typical cold start temperatures. If I thought the 0w and 5w numbers were directly comparable, I would've said 0w-40 is the same viscosity as an 0w-20 or 0w-30 at typical cold start temperatures but that is not what I said at all and I am well aware that is not the case.
And yes there are variances between brands too of course. I made a chart of 0w-30 and 5w-30 oils 40C, 100C and HTHS (if available) available in my area and picked one based on that.
Hell the 0w40 is even thicker cold than the 10w30. Your average car guy doesnt understand this concept. The 74.9cSt visc rating on that 0w40 is HIGH. Cold starts on that engine and turbo (if applicable) are not going to be happy until that thing is all the way up to temp.
You are correct. I have full range viscosity numbers as well, but that is not public data. I used 40c because that along with 100c are industry standard numbers. I cant give specifics, but with this brand and another popular (think nascar) brand the difference at 20c is still that the 0w40 is 28% thicker than the 5w30 and 22% at 0c40C is not a typical cold start temperature. 10C to 30C is. Yes 0w-40 is thicker than 5w-30 at 40C but 5w-30 is thicker at VERY low temperatures. There is a point where they both cross over, probably somewhere around -10C to 0C depending on the individual product. A typical cold start temp isn't much warmer than this crossover. Like I said, similar in viscosity, not identical in viscosity and yep like we have both said, varies between brands.
In a nice warm climate that probably isn't enough to worry about. But it is true that the most wear on an engine typically occurs before it reaches operating temp. Thick, cold oil does not help matters.
My belief is that video gives bad advice for street cars. Everybody wants to think they drive a race car and must have the absolute most bestest, most hard core-iest oil ever and its just overkill.
Nah. That is too thick for daily use. He will be doing more harm than good. Any wear he thinks he is preventing under high temps is being offset by the extra wear occuring during warmup. The difference being that will happen every single time the car gets started and that "extra super high temp protection" he thinks he needs will probably occur for a total of 10 minutes over the course of a 5000 mile oil change interval. I could understand using a 0w40 for a long hard track session then dumping it immediately after for something more reasonable. But not as a daily use thing. Its not an air cooled Harley.Idk if you guys missed the point the video is about 22 wrx 😅. Not brz/86, pretty sure fa24dit sees more heat than fa24d. Makes sense if he wants to run 5w40 if he is at somewhere the spring is picking back up.
I will agree that quality oil does not need to be dumped after reasonable track use. I say to dump it not because its bad, but that it is definitely overly thick and excessive for daily street use. Unfortunately, Subaru is not a manufacturer I deal with and in all honesty I dont know nearly as much about them as I do most other engines. I dont know what, if any changes were made to their engines when making the change to thinner oil. But in general most manufacturers did make changes. Things like coated cylinder walls rather than sleeves, tighter ring gaps, new ring\bearing materials, oil passage sizing all were part of this thin oil and reduced friction initiative. I wonder what the reliability track record looks like before\after the change. I mean EJs were never reliable. Was there any more\less bearing\rod failures when oil weight changed?
5w30 for sure. It will still be comfortable in that climate. I know enthusiasts dont want to hear it, but I still support different oil for street and track use. You will get smoother startups with better protection on thinner stuff along with a significant increase in MPG. The heavier stuff on track will give you that high temp\rpm protection you are after. You dont even have to change the filter or get under the car. Extract the track oil out of top after the event and pour in a $30 jug of good 5w20 and be done. You will save the $30 back in fuel savings and not have to worry how well that track used oil is holding up for another 3,4,5k miles. But for those who just want 1 oil at all times and do actual heavy track use I think 5w30 would be the go to. Street abuse, autocross, short track races, 5w20.I live in Denver, where there are massive temperature swings all year. It snows as late as May, but the track season runs almost all year and it’s totally possible to have a 80 degree track day in March.
What’s your thoughts on 5w-30 vs 0w-30 oil for track use?
You can also get creative and mix them. No harm in that.
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