Savage Geese has a video on YT about the perils of direct injection.
He says the problems that arise are deposits building up on the backside of intake valves, in part due to evaporated motor oil fumes and blowby products, not being washed off by port injection. At about 15:50 in the video he starts discussing why its not good to run the thin oils due to their high evaporation rate. He suggests that 0w-16,0w20, 0w-30 are best replaced by 5w-xx oils because they generally are less evaporative.
Argument for thicker oils
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As a whole, 0w oils are kinda dumb unless you live in a VERY extreme cold climate. It’s really just an emissions thing and I’ve run 5w-xx or 10w-xx oils on every car I’ve ever owned. I used the dealer 0w for my first few oil changes (because subie did half of them anyways) but since run 5w-20 or 5w-30 in the summer since our highs in Florida are regularly over 100F.
In an even slightly temperate climate, 5w-20 is a great option for our cars. We don’t have to worry as much about valve caking (the first gen cars didn’t experience it at all afaik) because of the D4S our cars use.
In an even slightly temperate climate, 5w-20 is a great option for our cars. We don’t have to worry as much about valve caking (the first gen cars didn’t experience it at all afaik) because of the D4S our cars use.
I'm seriously considering skipping my free oil changes -- even though they've noticed me that my first freebee is set for 3750 miles, which is good to see -- because they'll surely use 0-20. I don't see ever using 0 weight in this car. PS I did DIY oil change at 1K miles with 5-20.
I have a bunch of 0-20 in my garage and will use it up on my 4Runner, which is not picky! But gonna stop using 0 weight on that thing too once my 0-20 is gone.
I have a bunch of 0-20 in my garage and will use it up on my 4Runner, which is not picky! But gonna stop using 0 weight on that thing too once my 0-20 is gone.
TruBoost already taught me this 2 years ago =]]
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329 Posts
Okay, what is a good oil catch can for our cars? Please give links too.
Killer B is my favorite and I run the street setup on my car. The Verus is likely pretty good too...
Probably is true if you're trying to leave it on when visiting the dealer lol. The Killer B is also small and black though and it nestles nicely behind the engine cover.
You just have to weigh what you care about more. I want my engine to be as spotless as possible, even despite the catch can being bone dry majority of the time. That said, catch can really isn't needed for normal driving.
It only catches oil if you're doing spirited driving in the mountains, canyons, auto-X etc or tracking the car.
You just have to weigh what you care about more. I want my engine to be as spotless as possible, even despite the catch can being bone dry majority of the time. That said, catch can really isn't needed for normal driving.
It only catches oil if you're doing spirited driving in the mountains, canyons, auto-X etc or tracking the car.
Yeah man you wan a dump that factory oil asap.
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480 Posts
You should automatically run thicker oil on track days - just for cheap insurance.
Reminder on dash via Post-it Note: Let car warm up a bit before ripping on it!
Some cars w more track inclined configuration have factory set up guide that calls for 15W50.. so its not NEWS.
Reminder on dash via Post-it Note: Let car warm up a bit before ripping on it!
Some cars w more track inclined configuration have factory set up guide that calls for 15W50.. so its not NEWS.
My DI-only Fords didn't have a problem, either. If it did have build up (as even MPFI would have at 200k), it caused no detectable loss of performance or mileage. The usual German offenders reportedly had legitimate issues, but they have problems with almost everything, which is especially funny as they pioneered the tech all the way back in WW2, although AC combat lifespans were probably anticipated to only be a few hours.
Were they actual DI Fords? Ford has had dual injection technology available in certain vehicles since MY2017. I've seen plenty of sludge issues in the purely DI Fords, and iirc the solution for many of them from Ford corporate was to replace the cylinder heads lol.
2012 Focus SE and 2016 Focus ST. Are you sure you're correct about cylinder head replacement pertaining to DI? The closed deck Ecoboost 4s have an issue involving cooling passages, which is what took out the ST at 180k, though they recommend engine replacement. I never bothered to look at the valves because there was no drivability, performance, or mileage issue and I have better things to do, though I wouldn't doubt I could have taken pics of them and made a youtube video with me making a Home Alone face in the thumbnail and an "OMG gEt 4 c4tcH Canz!" headline imploring people to click the link to catch cans in the text below the video (if you mention my name, you get 10% off!) or else their engine will blow up and remember to smash that like button! I think it's a largely overblown issue a lot of people saw an opportunity to exploit people who care about their cars to sell chemical cleanings, walnut blastings, and catch cans. There are a lot of DI cars on the road and there is no way the majority of them have been treated to the various snake oil services or else there would be cars all over the place barely limping along. Anyway, this car also has MPFI.
Lots of discussion on the subject in this thread, good to read through.
www.gr86.org
Oil weight
Hey everyone, Loving my BRZ and looking to make sure she keeps going while I do some aggressive driving. Those of you that occasionally track your cars, what are you using for oil weight? Sticking with the 0w20 or going heavier?
www.gr86.org
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6 Posts
I wouldn't worry too much about the FA24 since it has Toyota's D4S Direct and Port Injection. Additionally most engines are designed to strip oil from the PCV system, like catch cans.
While I am an advicate for thicker oils on the FA24, especially on track, the use of thicker oils did not prevent oil from the pcv system getting into the intake on older cars running 15W-50 oils.
I wouldn't over think it on the FA24. Choose your oil based on your location and usage.
While I am an advicate for thicker oils on the FA24, especially on track, the use of thicker oils did not prevent oil from the pcv system getting into the intake on older cars running 15W-50 oils.
I wouldn't over think it on the FA24. Choose your oil based on your location and usage.
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