I'm interested too. It also controls the turn signal settings.

One the flip, I am finishing up with JL component speakers in the front, a surface mounted 5-1/4 rear, and the JBL sub in the spare tire's home. Sounds awesome, but you have to tweak the levels for each recording / CD. Also, it gets plenty loud with this set up, but you might want more. I'm working out how to keep the sub from coming on when the lights light up (open the door, ...).

And - the rear speakers, Rockford Fosgate 5-1/4, are way more efficient. I actually am faded plus 1 to the front to be even. Zero mid-bass though. I'd say that with the right set up, a sub would net be necessary.

Steve

 

It's worth a try OP. Wiring is likely still the same for the most part. It's also entirely possible that the 2nd gen utilizes a standard DIN mount this time, but no US owner so far online at least has tried to check and see. The downside is you could waste that time just to find out it still uses a non-standard DIN.

I'm interested too. It also controls the turn signal settings.

I mean, there's a LOT of control integration in this head unit. Go through the settings menu and count how many things are controlled there.

Off the top of my head:
Door unlock functionality
Lighting sensitivity
Turn signals
Backup camera (w/ lines)
Radar sensors
Steering reactive headlights

I think replacing the head unit is a very dangerous thing to do.

yeah, that's why there's the optional approved aftermarket Japanese H/Us that their dealers offer. Def not just a plug and play affair if you want the stock functionality lol

I don't know why people continue to repeat these things. I can't speak on the AT/Eyesight stuff, but for the 6MT every single non-audio setting that's available in the head unit can be changed in the gauge cluster. Even the steering reactive headlights.

The Japanese head unit is nothing special and doesn't control any sort of vehicle settings at all. I've already talked with Japanese owners about this. They even have steering wheel integration working although I'm not 100% sure how and there was a slight language barrier coupled with the fact that they didn't necessarily install it themselves.

I'm not concerned about any of the settings because I'm happy with where they are and can't imagine wanting to change again. Plus I have a manual so no radar. Was hoping to get the pinout to see if I can get the factory camera signal, but I'll be perfectly happy with a plate frame mount aftermarket. I guess my bigger concern is that any of those functions begin to malfunction without the HU, like the adaptive headlights just stop working.....

No. Every setting that's in the head unit can be changed in the gauge cluster. The adaptive headlights nor the setting to turn them on/off aren't going to disappear when you remove the head unit.

The only definite thing you lose is the MySubaru app and the maintenance reminders as those are custom to the head unit, and honestly useless anyways.

Starlink features still work with an aftermarket head unit as it's contained inside it's own module (I'm 99% sure it's the same as the 1st gen).

You won't be able to control any vehicle settings though the head unit until iDatalink updates their Maestro RR/RR2 for the car. But again, it doesn't matter.

Everything that is controllable through the head unit is also available through techstream, if that helps anyone.

Less convenient than the gauge cluster for sure, but this is also an option.

 

I mean, there's a LOT of control integration in this head unit. Go through the settings menu and count how many things are controlled there.

Off the top of my head:
Door unlock functionality
Lighting sensitivity
Turn signals
Backup camera (w/ lines)
Radar sensors
Steering reactive headlights

I think replacing the head unit is a very dangerous thing to do.

 

I mean, there's a LOT of control integration in this head unit. Go through the settings menu and count how many things are controlled there. Off the top of my head: Door unlock functionality Lighting sensitivity Turn signals Backup camera (w/ lines) Radar sensors Steering reactive headlights I think replacing the head unit is a very dangerous thing to do.

I'm not concerned about any of the settings because I'm happy with where they are and can't imagine wanting to change again. Plus I have a manual so no radar. Was hoping to get the pinout to see if I can get the factory camera signal, but I'll be perfectly happy with a plate frame mount aftermarket. I guess my bigger concern is that any of those functions begin to malfunction without the HU, like the adaptive headlights just stop working..... I guess I could always go the nuclear option.... Leave the HU in place, Put a 4G tablet mount directly over the HU and run the audio output to amps. Run all new wiring to new speakers, Guaranteed better sound than what's there. Like this...

 

yeah, that's why there's the optional approved aftermarket Japanese H/Us that their dealers offer. Def not just a plug and play affair if you want the stock functionality lol

 

Its the speakers as it always is. Try replacing the fronts and if you need more power, add an amp.

 

I'm starting with that, hoping you're right. Waiting for OEM audio plus to confirm that their door speakers can handle a 60W RMS amplifier.

 

Everything that is controllable through the head unit is also available through techstream, if that helps anyone.

 

That's part of the benefit of going aftermarket. I'm not 100% sure how good the low level signal coming out of the HU is? But I know IF I go clean install and just start over all new HU signals, Amps, Speakers, wires, etc, I'll do better. Buuut. Soo much work. This next weekend hopefully I'm going to add a 4 channel amp, replace the door speakers and use a 4 channel so I can hook up a second set of 6x9s in boxes sitting in the unused back seats. See how that suits me.

 

That's part of the benefit of going aftermarket. I'm not 100% sure how good the low level signal coming out of the HU is? But I know IF I go clean install and just start over all new HU signals, Amps, Speakers, wires, etc, I'll do better. Buuut. Soo much work. This next weekend hopefully I'm going to add a 4 channel amp, replace the door speakers and use a 4 channel so I can hook up a second set of 6x9s in boxes sitting in the unused back seats. See how that suits

I replaced the door speakers and added an Amp last night, took it for a spin this morning.

First off, I was surprised that the door speakers weren't some crappy paper cones, they actually were composite and the magnets weighed more than the ones I replaced them with.
Second, they were more like midrange speakers, when I put in full range polk DB speakers, they were much brighter. Since the new speakers were much brighter, I was able to dial back the treble and mid substantially, hoping this helps with the horrible scratchy static sound.
Third, I don't think the inputs to the rear amp are actually low level (how can they be if they're split and feed the front dash speakers as well). I had to put the gain all the way down on my amp.

Finally, what a huge difference, for like $200 in parts. I woukd still like to upgrade the dash speakers. I tried to get OEM audio plus to sell me just the dash speakers, but after speaking with them on the phone to get a quote, they do not answer my emails back.

 

I'm actually still wanting an in-dash unit with regular hookups so I can control the sound better. My JBL sub is too much on some albums. With a new stereo, I could have bass coming from the rear speakers too. I hate to put more money in the sound system though.

Steve

 

oh wow, that's wild but also pretty awesome in terms of swapping then.

 

That functionality must be built-in due to the JDM cars shipping with no head unit.

 

FYI, For anyone doing the rear amp/door replacement, As has been discussed, the "low" level into the amp, as has been discussed previously are actually just a split off signal from the front dash speakers. As such, I went ahead and added an Audiocontrol LC2i to do level conversion, then ran the bass output to my basshub sub amp and the full range to the door speakers amp...., much improved from the straight signal to the amps. Particularly the cleanliness of the bass.

I still feel the treble is harsh/staticy, leading me to believe I must've boogered something up in this whole process or the head unit had some kind of mfgr defect. But, I'm probably past the point of no return to claim warranty. So at some point, I'll be going the full dash replacement along with some rewiring. For now, I'm turning the EQ down on the mid/treb and it's bearable, but not clear.

Hopefully this gives the aftermarket some time to develop better integration for steering wheel control, rear camera, etc...

I would love some plug and play harnesses, brackets, etc... for those items by the time I'm ready to make the jump.

 

I'm waiting on a full replacement because the stock unit sucks. I've never been more annoyed with a head unit in my entire life.

 

Oh sweet relief! So in the end I bypassed the factory Amp, put in a 4 and 2 channel amp through an Audiocontrol Lc2, which gets its signal from the rear amp input, which is a weak high-level signal.

The 4 channel powers front doors and a pair of 6x9s in boxes in the trunk firing forward. Then the 2 channels powers the basshub in the wheelwell.

The issue was that, even with the midrange eq all the way down, there were treble frequencies that made it unbearable, like staticy-feedback. Awful, so bright it was unbearable. In the end. I added an EQ with 28 or so bands and FINALLY, It sounds okay. I had to really crank down the 5k-6.5k bands, that's where that piercing pain was coming from.

FYI, I Used an Expert PX-2 eq, control everything from my phone, it's really slick, and in the absence of any kind of real eq on the head unit, as good as can be expected imo.

 

Oh sweet relief! So in the end I bypassed the factory Amp, put in a 4 and 2 channel amp through an Audiocontrol Lc2. the 4 channel powers front doors and a pair of 6x9s in a box in the trunk firing forward. Then the 2 channels powers the basshub in the wheelwell.

The issue was that, even with the midrange eq all the way down, there were treble frequencies that made it unbearable, like staticy-feedback. Awful, so bright it was unbearable. In the end. I added an EQ with 28 or so bands and FINALLY, It sounds okay. I had to really crank downt the 5k-6.5k bands, that's where that piercing pain was coming from.

FYI, I Used an Expert PX-2 eq, control everything from my phone, it's really slick, and in the absence of any kind of real eq on the head unit, as good as can be expected imo.

Sounds like you nailed it! Well done.

The treble distortion in the Limited is absolutely horrendous! My quick-and-dirty solution was to just disconnect the gawd-awful el-cheapo Pioneer polymer tweeters in the dash.

 

OEM Audio+ speakers and pulling the treble and mids down has mine to where it's quite good imo. Although I could improve it further by using the 9 band EQ on my phone vs the the in-car 3 band. That 3 band EQ isn't the greatest (especially stock speakers) because there's harsh frequencies between the "mids" and "highs" as said.

 

I've been researching on my own, reading the OEM diagrams, and testing different configurations on my GR86.
I have a Sony aftermarket head unit that I've been using for testing purposes.
I bought the Subaru-Sony direct wire harness from AutoHarnessHouse.com which works pretty much plug-and-play with just a little mod to ensure proper operation of the remote trigger (I'll go deeper into that in further posts), making power and speaker outputs operate as OEM (Big win).

There is another wire harness connected to the OEM unit that manages connections to the rear camera, microphones, can bus, steering wheel controls, and more. For this also from AutoHarnessHouse.com, I was able to get a 38-pin jumper harness that I was able to modify to get the backup camera and steering wheel controls connected to the aftermarket unit.

So in summary, I got OEM speakers, backup camera and steering wheel controls working with the aftermarket unit no problem (I thought).
My car is the higher Trim one that comes with the amplifier for the door speakers, EyeSight, rear sensors, and RAB (Rear Automatic Braking).

The first issue: The aftermarket unit was not able to trigger ON the OEM amplifier. I didn't look further into this since I'm planning to replace all of the speakers and add an aftermarket amplifier.
The second issue: Once the OEM head unit is disconnected from the car an error message is shown in the dashboard stating The RAB is disabled and now the option in the menu to turn on and off RAB and parking assistance are greyed out. Apparently, the OEM head unit is doing some advanced integration with the parking sensor system and removing the head unit causes a cascade effect.
From the OEM wiring diagrams, I can see the Parking sensor system and RAB are completely separate from the head unit but certainly, there is some communication between the two, maybe via the can bus and when that communication is interrupted disables the whole thing (maybe, I don't know).

For those with no EyeSight, Parking sensors, etc. It should be very simple to replace the OEM head unit without major implications. The group of the higher Trim is going to have to wait for someone a little bit more knowledgeable to find out how to bypass this error with the RAB system.

I'll be posting pinouts and part numbers soon for those who want to adventure and replace the head unit on base models. Maybe that inspires someone to find the solution for the error on higher trims.

 

I've been researching on my own, reading the OEM diagrams, and testing different configurations on my GR86.
I have a Sony aftermarket head unit that I've been using for testing purposes.
I bought the Subaru-Sony direct wire harness from AutoHarnessHouse.com which works pretty much plug-and-play with just a little mod to ensure proper operation of the remote trigger (I'll go deeper into that in further posts), making power and speaker outputs operate as OEM (Big win).

There is another wire harness connected to the OEM unit that manages connections to the rear camera, microphones, can bus, steering wheel controls, and more. For this also from AutoHarnessHouse.com, I was able to get a 38-pin jumper harness that I was able to modify to get the backup camera and steering wheel controls connected to the aftermarket unit.

So in summary, I got OEM speakers, backup camera and steering wheel controls working with the aftermarket unit no problem (I thought).
My car is the higher Trim one that comes with the amplifier for the door speakers, EyeSight, rear sensors, and RAB (Rear Automatic Braking).

The first issue: The aftermarket unit was not able to trigger ON the OEM amplifier. I didn't look further into this since I'm planning to replace all of the speakers and add an aftermarket amplifier.
The second issue: Once the OEM head unit is disconnected from the car an error message is shown in the dashboard stating The RAB is disabled and now the option in the menu to turn on and off RAB and parking assistance are greyed out. Apparently, the OEM head unit is doing some advanced integration with the parking sensor system and removing the head unit causes a cascade effect.
From the OEM wiring diagrams, I can see the Parking sensor system and RAB are completely separate from the head unit but certainly, there is some communication between the two, maybe via the can bus and when that communication is interrupted disables the whole thing (maybe, I don't know).

For those with no EyeSight, Parking sensors, etc. It should be very simple to replace the OEM head unit without major implications. The group of the higher Trim is going to have to wait for someone a little bit more knowledgeable to find out how to bypass this error with the RAB system.

I'll be posting pinouts and part numbers soon for those who want to adventure and replace the head unit on base models. Maybe that inspires someone to find the solution for the error on higher trims.

YES! Nice work. Since I have the Manual, I THINK I would be okay, I ASSUME that RAB is specific to the AT, Cross traffic and Blind spot monitors are separate hopefully? So hopefully my BSM and RCTA detectors wouldn't be affected? Which Sony HU were you using and how did you (if you have) mount it in the dash? Standard DD?

 

Much appreciated. I hate the stock unit.

 

I'm dying here, lol. I'm wondering if these sony-specific harnesses are the same ones? Curious what modifications would be necessary or if they'll be releasing some soon?

 

I'm dying here, lol. I'm wondering if these sony-specific harnesses are the same ones? Curious what modifications would be necessary or if they'll be releasing some soon?

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I've started on this journey, following the advice from OJCarrion's earlier post. I've installed the Maestro RR2 with appropriate harnesses and connected it to an Alpine Halo11 head unit. I created an adapter to convert from the Maestro harness to the various car harnesses.

I have a premium car with eyesight+RAB and am seeing similar issues as OJCarrion reported. I discovered the RAB ECU is embedded within the OEM head unit . And multiple systems depend on talking to the RAB ECU to function. So, removing this won't be easy. I am working on trying to install the head unit with just power and CAN communication to see if this is enough to get past the warnings (as all of the proximity sensors are on the CAN bus). It looks like there is enough space for my single din radio and the OEM head unit to fit in the opening. I've removed the DCM and the stupid active sound control speaker that is installed under the head unit. So, this freed up a lot of space around the radio.

There are a few callouts which make the 22+ cars not compatible with the existing solutions:

1. The 10 pin connector pinout is different with 2 +B voltage pins from the battery (with the new pin overlapping the old "AMP" pin).
2. The 6pin car connector had an extra tab at the top which prevented me from using the Metro connectors.
   1. I had to cut this tab off to make it work
3. The 28pin connector is replaced with the new 38 pin connector which is only used on newer cars
4. There is no longer a pin to provide the parking break signal
5. The Antenna cable has a different connector.

#4 is my biggest issue at the moment, as Alpine head units require the parking brake to be engaged and then disengaged to unlock all of the settings. This means my head unit is locked until I can find an alternative solution. There are only a few radio manufacturers that require this special sequence to unlock the unit. I don' think Sony is one of them, which is why OJCarrion didn't note this as a problem. Maestro tech support was super helpful and provide me a few workarounds to try and get past this.

I've documented everything and have a few pictures. I will create a post once I work out a few of the issues as I will probably have to rewire the adapter a few times to make things work.

 

I think I’ve finally got to a point where I’m happy with the radio install. I will write up all the details this weekend (as I should have more time due to the holiday). Here are a few picks showing off the Alpine Halo11 radio. It doesn’t mate up to the original plastic housing. But this is very hard to see due to the extra large screen.

The audio quality has improved some over the OEM head unit. Much of this is due to the enhanced equalizers within the new radio. But it is still very harsh sounding when turned up. I just received my Focal Utopia M speakers and amps. Which should fix this problem for good!

Remaining issues:

1. The USB ports in the center console do not work. The radio keeps complaining when I plug it in. I plan to pull out the logic analyzer this weekend to see if I can find the problem.
2. I am still searching for a good connector to reuse the OEM GPS antenna. I had to run the GPS antenna included with the head unit for now.
3. I haven’t validated if I can reuse the microphones that are present in the light fixture attached to the headboard. I just used the mic that came with the head unit for now. I am worried that the calibration would be off and it will sound like shit. So, I might not ever get around to testing this out.

 

I think I’ve finally got to a point where I’m happy with the radio install. I will write up all the details this weekend (as I should have more time due to the holiday). Here are a few picks showing off the Alpine Halo11 radio. It doesn’t mate up to the original plastic housing. But this is very hard to see due to the extra large screen.

The audio quality has improved some over the OEM head unit. Much of this is due to the enhanced equalizers within the new radio. But it is still very harsh sounding when turned up. I just received my Focal Utopia M speakers and amps. Which should fix this problem for good!

Remaining issues:

1. The USB ports in the center console do not work. The radio keeps complaining when I plug it in. I plan to pull out the logic analyzer this weekend to see if I can find the problem.
2. I am still searching for a good connector to reuse the OEM GPS antenna. I had to run the GPS antenna included with the head unit for now.
3. I haven’t validated if I can reuse the microphones that are present in the light fixture attached to the headboard. I just used the mic that came with the head unit for now. I am worried that the calibration would be off and it will sound like shit. So, I might not ever get around to testing this out.

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Oh hey, you beat me to it. Exact radio I was gonna use too lol. I’ve tabled my radio replacement for a bit while I work on other stuff, good to see somebody blazing the trail.

Aftermarket radios don’t like to cooperate with factory USB ports that run through a hub, only single ports. What I’ve done in the past to get around this is disassemble the hub, chop off the female end of a USB cable, and solder directly to the factory USB port.
I’ve never been able to retain a factory GPS antenna for an aftermarket install so i’m no help there.
As far as the microphone, resistance is what matters. Meter resistance between the rings on your aftermarket mic and between the 2 wires for your factory mic. If they match, it can be retained.

 

@MisterJ and @Silvertoy - can you share (directionally) how much $ you’ve invested and how much time spent? And then with that - is the outcome worth it to you?

 

I probably spent around $1600. Probably about 40 hours between all the different iterations. It was not worth it, because it was still not good enough. Not anywhere close to any of the aftermarket stereos I had put in, and not even as good as some stock stereos I've had. But, if I could have seen a path to getting there, then yes, would have been worth it.

I know I'll get torched for saying this, but 50% of my driving experience enjoyment isnt just blasting down my favorite back road, but doing it with some great music playing at unhealthy volumes, which takes it to another level for me.

In the end, I just wasn't getting there, and even after all I did, I got sick of having to adjust the EQ for each song, source, etc and I gave up. I returned it to full stock and I traded the car in, screw toyobaru. Bought a KIA EV6 with the meridian sound system, spent, $250 to put in a bigger sub, and it's now the best sound system I've ever had, stock or aftermarket. It's no BRZ in the curves, but 3.4 second 0-60, AWD, ultra comfort, room for the kids.... I don't even miss the BRZ or my beloved manual transmission a little.

 

 

 

 

"The audio experience is so visceral, I almost forget I'm drive sometimes (which gets a little scary). I love the car and find reasons to drive it more often, just to listen to the radio ."

This was the experience I was hoping for, and I've had that with many cars and stereos since. Most notably was my old MR2 Spyder with a high end JVC head unit. I would sometimes be driving far beyond the cars potential, but be as loose and calm as can be. I would just throw back the top and drive like that for hours and hours. Was hoping this car, which finally gave me the nimble handling goods of my old MR2 could be that for me again, 20 years later..... Nope. 😭.

I just felt, I had done as much as I wanted to do. I had replaced all the speakers (even added 4 more in boxes) amped them all separate from the HU, added a 28 band equalizer.... But without escaping the compression of the HU, you couldn't listen to 2 different songs without tuning, or even change the volume. IMO, if you don't replace the audio source, this system is unsalvageable

 

"The audio experience is so visceral, I almost forget I'm drive sometimes (which gets a little scary). I love the car and find reasons to drive it more often, just to listen to the radio ."

This was the experience I was hoping for, and I've had that with many cars and stereos since. Most notably was my old MR2 Spyder with a high end JVC head unit. I would sometimes be driving far beyond the cars potential, but be as loose and calm as can be. I would just throw back the top and drive like that for hours and hours. Was hoping this car, which finally gave me the nimble handling goods of my old MR2 could be that for me again, 20 years later..... Nope. 😭.

I just felt, I had done as much as I wanted to do. I had replaced all the speakers (even added 4 more in boxes) amped them all separate from the HU, added a 28 band equalizer.... But without escaping the compression of the HU, you couldn't listen to 2 different songs without tuning, or even change the volume. IMO, if you don't replace the audio source, this system is unsalvageable

It’s interesting that people have gone all-out on external amps and speakers and still find the system falls short. At that point, it has to be the signal source.

 

@OJCarrion, are you able to fix RAB warning problem after your installation of the sonny HU? I am interested doing the same with the 2024 model.

 

How much weight did all that add?

 

Where did you see this? I can't find a single source online of these "approved Headunits"